Snake45

Most model airplane canopies, being 1/48 scale or smaller, will be much too small. A 1/32 MIGHT work. Squadron makes clear vac-formed canopies for model airplanes. At one time they had some 1/32 canopies and they might have even added some 1/24 to their line since the last time I checked. Just realized, a hobby shop that specializes in flying/RC models might have something suitable as a separate part. Also, don't forget that the bubble on the real Barris Drag-U-La was the rear section of a P-51D canopy, which is represented in the AMT Drag-U-La kit.

Somewhere, there's someone with an old Cox P-51--or maybe it's from their Corsair, which was sort-of based on the bubbletop F2G--model who would love to have that minty replacement canopy.

I used to think she was pretty good looking. And the last time I saw her she was still quite attractive for her age.

I like the taillights. What are they from?

Not bad at all. I just did a "rescue" of a glue bomb of one of these so I know what a pig it is. Did you paint it or is it molded in red? (I believe some issues of this kit were.)

I'll believe it when I'm holding it in my hand. I tend to think it's a typo, and they got either the year or the model wrong.

Will be nice if they give us ALL the parts in one box, a la the way the Nomad's (almost) always been.

"Gunmetal" is an extremely nebulous term with no precise meaning at all. What any maker calls "gunmetal" and what you think "gunmetal" should look like are probably two completely different things. And you can both be right or both be wrong. Come to think of it, "gunmetal" is completely useless as a term describing color.

Is that a '65 Riv front end grafted onto to a '68-'72 El Camino? It looks fabulous! Somebody has to build a model of that!

Pretty cool! Model on!

Iso alcohol in any concentration is death on Future (so is ammonia and anything with ammonia in it, such as Windex). Full strength alcohol will strip Testor lacquer and I'm not sure but suspect it will strip Tamiya clear too. You might try recoating with Future. A new coat might fill in the damage and make it disappear, but I can't promise you it will. Worth a try, though. Especially since the only other thing I can think of is strip back to bare plastic and start over. This is why I don't use Future much anymore. It's way too fragile, and there's little if anything you can do to fix it. Sorry I don't have any happier advice.

Sorry, he doesn't have the record. He's not even close. World record for piston-powered vehicles was set last year--531.53 mph, by Steve Hinton Jr, in Voodoo, a highly modified WWII P-51D Mustang powered by a Packard Merlin V-12. Now if you meant world's fastest piston-powered land vehicle, then yes, he's the fastest on land. And good for him--gotta love a success story! Respect!

Dried white glue should come off your diecast with just warm water. In fact, you might even be able to just peel or scrape it off with a fingernail. It doesn't bond anywhere near permanently with any nonporous (smooth) surface.

Actually, that one's kind of interesting, if someone can explain to me how a human body (and the seat it's sitting on) and the front wheel and tire can occupy the same space at the same time. And if it's mid-engine, what's the (mini) hood scoop for?

Wasn't she also Roller Girl in Boogie Nights?

A bunch of glitter junk of no use to any modeler. In other news: Mine now has the '65 Elky, '55 Cameo, '66 Fairlane, '70 Corvette, and a couple other AMT things. They had two of the pink stock '70 Chargers on the shelf. Knowing some of y'all are looking for them, I almost bought one just for swap fodder, but then remembered that these seem to be showing up in some other stores, too, so decided not to take the chance (I have no interest in this car, myself). Ended up buying a '65 El Camino with my coupon, not that I don't already have two or three unbuilt copies of this kit (and a couple nice diecasts, too). It's a sickness.

But how would I get the Jello out of the bottle?

I'm planning to use '65 Riv headlight pods on a couple customs I have in mind, where I think they will really enhance the look. Not sayin' what at this time, though, lest someone beat me to it.

Nice job, very clean build. Harbor Blue/Larkspur Blue is probably my favorite 2-tone combo for '56-'57 Chevies. Well done and model on!

Looks a LOT better the second time around. Drive on!

My HL had the new Testor colors last week. Every time they change this display, it gets worse. Useful favorite colors are gone, and many of the new ones have no use I can imagine. Who is picking these paints?

Yup. Been preaching it for years. It's tedious work, but once done, it looks good forever.

They're the one-piece chassis from the '66 Barracuda, and yes probably a step backwards.

The body and its trim aren't THAT bad IMHO. I can think of a dozen popular kits that are much, much worse, some of which I've actually built myself. It'll help to cut the pillar out of the body behind the door windows, if your body has them molded in. (I think some do, some don't.) If you want underside/chassis detail, you're probably stuck with sacrificing a Duster or Dart chassis. Maybe you can find a cheap glue bomb for a donor. Improvise! Adapt! Overcome! OR just forget about it and move on to other projects. That's what real modelers do.

Or even better, a new toothbrush and warm running water. Been doing it this way for years. You might have to do it more than once. Some of the stuff seems to "disappear" while you're scrubbing only to reappear later when it all dries.