peteski

That is one impressive and unique model Alex!

If you have (or willing to learn) the required CAD skills, considering where this hobby is currently, 3D printing the model is an excellent choice. You just shift where you hobby time will be utilized. From physical scratchbuilding (the old way) to "virtual scratchbuilding" on the computer.

If you never seen "Spaceballs" then you won't get the joke. This is not the exact the same RV, but close.

This is some very impressive modeling. I hope you will add "I ❤️ URANUS" bumper sticker when you finish it.

Yes I despise tailgaters (especially if I have slow traffic in front of me). Or even if I'm going 5-10 MPH over the speed limit. Selfish people (wich is very common nowadays). I have seen a car with a bumper sticker like this, and it made me smile. I contemplated getting one myself, but not only it is too nice, it will not stop those nasty tailgaters. I have also seen more R-rated bumper stickers, but I would probably get in trouble posting them here.

Well Steve, I'm going to call you out on this one. I remember the exchange we have about this quite well. I posted a link in the "freeze plug" thread which you paid no attention to. Below is your replay about links in general (nothing specific about links to photos). Please read that post and few subsequent posts to see proof that you don't pay much attention to links in posts. Please click on this link: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/165242-freeze-plugs/page/2/#comment-2470957

From my past experience, and from what he told me, Steve does not click on any links included in posts. If it is not in the post, he won't read it.

Nail polish is a fairly "hot" lacquer which could craze clear parts. But I guess it if is applied sparingly to the edge of the clear part, that won't be much of an issue.

Oh well, it went way over my head. I need to lighten up a bit and be less serious. Maybe if you put a smiley in your post I would have caught on.

Usually automatic spell checkers are to blame, but not in this case: Both spellings are correct. It is a human error. The one that I find silly is people using "Testers" instead of "Testors".

I have seen this exact discussion on this exact forum in the past. The opinions and comments have not changed since then.

Greg, in your last post you basically repeated most of your initial post. I'll also repeat again: if you don't want to use any sort of adhesive foil (which needs to be trimmed on the model), the only other alternative is some sort of liquid chrome solution. If you apply the liquid chrome freehand, you can easily stray off the molding, messing up the paint job. Plus freehand you will not get nice even edge like you do when trimming foil with a knife. So, you will likely have to mask then airbrush the chrome liquid. Masking requires the same trimming process as does BMF application. Also, if you don't burnish the masking tape well, the chrome liquid paint will seep under the tape, again ruining your paint. Most clear coats also dull the look of the liquid chrome solutions. I have never clear coated BMF (I apply it as a last step) and have not had a problem with it either peeling off or getting dull. As for the knife slipping, you can stick thin strips of masking tape against the trim on the model's body you want to chrome, then apply BMF, and use the edge of tape as your knife guide. the guide tape strip can be applied either over or under the BMF. This method has been nicely explained on this forum in the past. I think the "miracle" super-easy chrome trim you are looking for doesn't exist.

Why? It takes very little pressure to hold and twirl the 1/8" drill bit shaft between my fingers. You don't want to put too much pressure on the bit, ans it is quite fragile. Actually hard calloused skin would make the hand-drilling more difficult. My fingertips are quite soft. I do use pin vise for the larger drill sizes, and the same applies - delicate handling is in order.

Or maybe make it like the old balsa and tissue airplane models with ribs and tissue. But instead use styrene for both the skeleton and covering. That will make the shape of the models slightly faceted, but you can then apply some putty on the surface to make t smooth.

IMO, there is no substitute for BMF. Lots of us use it and our models survive (and look good). Using any sort of liquid solutions is not any easier. Freehand application does not give high quality results, and masking and spraying is as difficult as cutting BMF on your model's surface.

That was a clever dig! Funny (well, really not so funny) thing is that at the time residing in a southern Boston suburb, commuting north to work 5 days a week, I lived (survived?) through the "Big Dig". Was a sight to see (and experience) traveling on the elevated I-93 while the holes were dug under it and surrounding areas. But traveling through that area still stinks (I have since moved, and now avoid that area like a plague), and all you see is tunnel walls while going through Boston.

And that's the problem, more often than not.

It has a Volvo-look to it. Both the front end, and the general shape of the body.

How much that simple replacement will cost (in labor cost), and who in their right mind will pay for that repair? Plus, what are the chances that everything will still work correctly after reconnecting hundreds of electrical, vacuum, and fluid connections contemporary engines have?

Buses are like trucks, some with the engine in the rear. Maybe start with a model of a bus? Just saying . . . Or just build the model as a curbside, and don't worry about detailing the engine or the underside.

My mother (when she was still driving) used to do the same thing while stopped at traffic lights (not just in the left turn lane). When I asked, her reasoning was that she was just being extra cautious: if she got rear-ended, she did not want to hit the car in front of her. How's that for logic?

Yes, as long as it is not ruined by loud engine noise from ATVs or dirt bikes.

Yes they are! And for my large order I was able to deal with that seller directly.

Thanks Bill. I checked out zoomonmodel.com and they have lots of goodies listed there. They seem legitimate. Placed a substantial order last night (including those Mercedes logos). Good stuff! The purchase was also super-easy with PayPal. Plus the scripts are much less expensive than from the French seller on eBay. Don't let the Hong Kong dollar prices scare you.

Yes, what Steve wrote (about airbrush-ready automotive colors made for hobbyists) is all true, but those are *NOT* plastic-compatible hobby paints. They are based on 1:1 automotive paints so there might be some bad interactions with plastic and/or primers. Things get a bit more complicated then when using specific hobby paints (like Tamiya). Just like I mentioned in my earlier post. If you are just starting out, I recommend sticking with safer hobby paints. You can always start using the hotter paints once you gain some experience with hobby paints. Some modelers (including me) do use airbrushes, and we sometimes decant hobby paint spray cans to shoot them through an airbrush. It is a bit of a pain, but I know the paint will be safe on plastic. I seldom use primers, shooting the color coat directly on plastic.