stitchdup

I bought a joblot of the humbrol acrylics a while back, and they are poor quality. They seem to have some grit in them and dont cover very well by brush or spray. I ended up going back to the enamels as at least they are usable. I like the revell acrylics though, they cover well but I've only used the ones you get in the gift sets. Not tried the revell enamels yet

Clear is on, I think I might get away with the finish straight out of the can on this one

Cool, the plymouth looks tough. Should look really tough on the ford

At the front I made it a friction fit on the suspension arms so it will wear out if used too much, and at the rear I'm cutting down some rubber bands to replace the centre of the driveshafts. I will be solid gluing them to the brake drums to make sure the stance does what most slammed vws do for that broken look. I previously tried to do it on my hebmuller using small sewing elastic at the front glued to the suspension arms but it was a little loose once assembled. When you get to your bug you'll need to do some small mods to the rear interior bucket, to get mine to fit I added a small strip of plastic 0.3mm under the upper engine bay part to tilt it ever so slightly back, and the front underhood part needed a little reshaping on the front from just behind the centre of the fenders down both sides but its both very minor mods but needed to get the body on the pan correctly.

Got the lime gold on. It laid down much nicer than the hot pink I used on the datsun. No blotchiness so it only needed a couple of coats unlike the pink that took loads of layers to get even. I'm looking forward to getting all the chrome and foil on but i've got a lot of clear to go on before that. I'm using a hebmuller dash to make the rhd conversion simpler

I used the humbrol enamel thinners and the paint turned to rubber on them. my own fault for not reading the tin but i assumed it was enamel since the tins are the same

The beetle hood looks to be from the imc kit with the stock or gasser options edit just checked and it is, the underside detail is the same

The humbrol clears are celulose paints (as I found out after destroying my paint brush in the humbrol thinners)

Does buying a kit you already have 2 of just for the bumpers I already have count? In my defence the 2 I already have are the esci releases of the escort rally car and my only reason for not raiding them for parts is they seem to sell for a lot on ebay so I'm sorta trying to keep them complete but they will get built. That reminds me, I've run out of tamiya bugs so will need to buy a few more soon

A couple of ebay purchases arrived today. The monogram mercedes was dirt cheap (pic from th internet as my one is too faded to get a decent pic off) cos i was the only bidder and the italeri escort I got so I can use the bumpers on my cannonball car. I also received an amt 49 merc and jimmy flintstone hirohata mers in a trade here.

Got the body and interior parts in the silver base. I'll let them sit a couple of days before the hok lime gold goes on

If I take parts from a kit I just cuss a lot when I go to build it and more bashing happens

Hows about the rarest USA golf/rabbit of them all. One of possibly 2 made by checker to replace the classic taxi. Its now owned Jamie Orr from orchideuro so its in a good home.

trying it in glue just now edit, it set fast but its like concrete, tried to sand it but it might be a little too hard

I haven't tried in water but i dont expect it would either. I'll try some in superglue when i get home though to see how it works. I suspect it wouldn't work too well though and just end up with dry powder in the centre. I find it works best when mixed before applying as you can then get it where you want it and use it in similar way to milliput depending on which time length the activator is. Incidently its what they use to make false teeth too but with a different activator. It can melt some styrene too but that just helps the bond if you are careful. The entire body of my custom lincoln is pretty much coated with the filler and some body parts entirely made from it. I plan to try the clear version to make lights at some point

I like where this is heading

The nail filler isn't too much more than baking soda if you buy it from china, you can get 100 grams for about 3 quid or sets with 3 colours and tools for about 6 quid but it works much better with the liquid for it. If you use the activator liquid you have more time to shape it. The activator comes in 1, 2 , 5 and ten min setting time. If you want to try it I am happy to give advice based on the results I've had with it. I've used it for a lot of builds and even to put sectioned bodies back together or to reinforce behind sections. I got it to try casting some small parts I wanted but it didn't work too well for it but for heavy body work and filling holes it works really well. A couple word of caution with it though, the fumes are really bad and a dremell is too hot even at the lowest speed to work it but electric nail files that take dremel tools do the job fine

A wheels swap here and there soon leads to every kit in the stash missing parts, which then leads to making other parts fit, and before you know it you have builds where only one piece is stock.

There's vents available from many photo etch set manufacturers. I haven't seen any compressors though

I would use an abrasive household cleaner instead of polish

If its thin wall tube you can cut it by rolling it with an exacto blad. It takes a wee while but can be done with old blades as you're using the less used parts of the blade

uscp do a couple sets of drag tyres/wheels

We had about a foot of snow here but 50-60 knot winds with it so it was building up in some pretty big drifts. Because of the road conditions the guy that covers days at work were unable to get there so i did a 36 hours shift on the boat.

Great trade with Hedotwo even tWould happily trade again