TarheelRick

Always fun to watch someone dive into the cutting and creating of one-off builds. The imagination is a wonderful thing. Looking forward to updates.

I love my 2010 Ranger Sport 2WD 4.0 V-6. However I could use a bit more pulling power. I stupidly bought a utility trailer that is a bit too much for the Ranger, although I do have another smaller frame that I may extend to the size I need and then sell the larger one. Anyway I stopped by my local Ford dealer a couple months back. They only had one Ranger on the lot 4 door 4WD ecoboost I-4 10 speed auto and the salesman told me price was $36+ with no discounts or rebates. To me the 10 speed is a catastrophe waiting to happen. I understand the thinking behind it, yet I had a 10-speed bicycle and was shifting constantly while riding up and down hills. I think the same will happen with the Ranger especially if pulling a small utility trailer. In the past I owned a 74 standard cab Datsun and a 78 King-cab Datsun, loved them both but wore the first one out, got married and needed a sedan for the second one. Since this picture was taken I have added a Slimline bed cover.

Cool work on that windshield frame. Those are some precise bends and you got them right on.

Someone must have been reading my mind when I bought mine and developed that one. I will have to try to find one of those. Thanks for posting it.

I only have two or three holy grail kits: 62 Ford Galaxie, 63 Pontiac Bonneville/Catalina, and any of the Chevrolet Apache pick-ups ( preferably 58/59).

A couple of ways I do this is 1. As you mentioned I used the Revell Street Burner '55 Chevy frame as a pattern to build a tube chassis for my Ford Escort pro-stock. I laid it on my work table marked the wheel base for the Escort beside that frame and began cutting tubes to match the new reduced wheelbase. 2. I acquired a scale drafting/engineer ruler many years ago. It is triangular shaped and has, I believe 6 different scales - two on each face. It takes a bit of getting used to and making sure you are using the correct edge, but it does the job. The only down side is the nearest scale for our purposes is 1/24. Hope this helps is some way.

I have been taking three or four boxes full of kits to a local show/swap met every year for the past few years. I will usually sell an average eight to ten kits. Only problem is I have won a kit almost every year in their raffle and I will buy at least two or three more. It is a net loss of kits, but still a problem. Then Ollie's will get a bunch of kits or Hobby Lobby will have a markdown and I just have to restock my sale boxes. They have meetings every Tuesday evening at one of the local churches for people like us.

Have you ever seen a Himalayan opossum? Him -a - laying across the yellow line and he's dead.

I think you mean miscues.

Back in the early 70's I was stationed at Keesler AFB in Mississippi. A friend bought one of these. When he brought it by to show it off, I made the comment, "Who poured hot water on your Corvette?" He was not amused and in very colorful language told me so. That being said, this is a very cool build, nice clean execution and an interesting color. Got one in my stash with plans on building as a Gasser.

No idea what it is, but looks like someone was trying to turn a Toronado into a "pimp-mobile". Looks like the top is either from an AMX or possibly a Mustang, maybe a combination of both, and that nose piece is almost a Firebird. Either way, some really questionable styling ideas.

R&R Resin makes a stock '70 Chrysler 300 http://www.resinrealm.net/GALLERIES/RRGallery/index.html

I built a "semi" pro-mod chassis for my Ford Escort using styrene rod rather than tubing - tubing seems to crack too easily. I also use MEK as a solvent. One word of CAUTION is to allow plenty of ventilation around your work area, MEK is some pretty nasty stuff and can cause 'drain bamage'. I used the Revell '55 Chevy Scott Carpenter knock-off as a pattern, just reduced the measurements to fit within the body of the Escort. Here are a couple of photos:

I am always amazed when I watch someone create one of these paint jobs in scale. I will probably never try one because I have a problem visioning in the negative required to do these. Not negative as in bad, but as in where not to tape to get a certain pattern. I have a few simple ideas I want to try on a '72 Impala, but each time I get close to doing it so far I have backed away.

I would like to say I hope it is photoshopped, but unfortunately I think it is probably real.

One thing I found to work on occasion is to get a piece of very small wire, run it from the very edge of the roof down to under the dash, and super glue it in place. Glue it all the way down, this will add some stability to the A pillar.

Oh my that is a riveting update (sorry, I couldn't help myself). Lots of beautiful detail work you are doing.

Very nice build. Looks like something a high school auto-shop class may have built in the 60's. Close to my school colors also, class of '67.

That is one sexy beast indeed and you are knocking it out of the park. Very impressive build, thanks for sharing.

Check out this topic, it should cover any questions you have.

Was going into town yesterday on a model buying excursion. Approaching my exit I was passed by a blue Lamborghini and in hot pursuit was a red Camaro; shall we say both were well above the posted speed limit. My next move was to dial *HP, that sort of behavior is not only stupid but extremely dangerous

Hmmm, I wonder what an air-fried model would look like. Not really sure I would want to use a kitchen utensil I use for cooking to dry model paints with. But if it works who am I to question.

I have one of these in my WIP pile, but using the AMT Firestone Ford kit. Saw one in Ohio many years ago hauling a Falcon Modified Production drag car.

Thanks for clearing that up. Guess I need to get back to the bench and start trying some of these different procedures.

Really wicked looking pro-street. I hope you have plans to add some form of front fender supports.