89AKurt

Welcome to the forum. Finishing a model is always a positive! The most important part, does it feel good? Painting the tailgate letters is a pain, been there, done that a few times.

Really like the wood detail. Is that Burled English Walnut, Canadel, Mahogany, or Sapele?

Thread title is all I was addressing. When people scan topic titles, it helps to be specific. I think '68-'72 Custom Series when I see "Chevy" pickup, just because I've owned a '69, and currently a '68. I also owned a '48 Advanced Design last century. I'm on the forum with the original name of 67-72 chevytrucks, they have each generation broke into separate forum categories, because Advanced Design owners sort of don't care about Squarebodies. So when I saw "History of ... " was expecting pre-war to 8 years ago. I don't know if the tag feature existed 8 years ago, did you include 'Squarebody' at that time so searches go right to your through article? Sorry I'm being so specific, it's annoying when people start generic threads with zero specifics, like "another box stock done".

using Youtoob University

You made good progress! Since you are making the parcel shelf, be sure you have the differential mocked up in the chassis first, I made a mistake when I did the NART trunk floor.

Cool subject, well done! The red tubes at the mirrors air ducts?

Asking the Admin team, any way the title can be improved by adding SQUAREBODY? I know this is an old thread that was dredged up, but come on people, try to be specific when starting a thread.

called Flint River

Dream garage to say the least. Very nice addition, Darth Vader would approve.

to avoid confessing

to backup, then

I love any purple, so of course I like this! Even on the hubcaps, well done!

Hey.... I've thought about doing such a thing with a regular pickup, bed with hydraulics to level the tub, so you could park next to a stream, fill with water, some sort of heater to get it hot, go for a mountain bike ride, get back and soak..... yea. ? Good to have you along!

being scooped up

? Broke plastic last night, goal is to build enough to know what needs to be modified. Found some errors in the instructions, the front wheel hubs were numbered the same, but one has 2 holes and the other has 4, but since I have plans for a driven axle, not important. Some other little parts on the rear axle were wrong, but I still managed to screw up assembly and had to fix, had problems on the 1/35 model too, it's a complicated assembly. Have also found the two body parts, and the hood exhaust side are warped. But for now, I can envision where I'm going with this. Hard to tell in these pictures, the straight 8 is HUGE!

flamewar tactics on

of telegraph wires

crashed into George's

Daring question to ask right out of the box! This is strictly my opinion, worth about $2 (inflation). Some buy rare, collectible, and if on eBay expensive kits, just to say they have them and collect dust in the basement collection. They prolly pull them out on occasion, and look at the box art, and resist opening the 1 mil plastic that makes them more collectible than opened kits, so they don't know if the tires have melted on the plastic parts and ruined the real value of the kit. I guess that's sort of exciting, like buying a Playboy and never looking at the centerfold. Have to confess, have a few kits still wrapped, but in some cases have another that is opened, one case is the AMT Mercedes 300SL, I have an old box art version still wrapped but a "regular" kit ready for my attention. I got a Dodge Stealth Indy Official Car kit when it was new, figured it would become a collectible, but they made a million of them, and the value went up about a penny, so I built it. IMHO it's dumb to buy a model and never build it, on purpose. I've built a couple of old Monogram slot car kits, with unusual engines kit bashed, sacrilege on more than one level. Yes, I'm not normal. ? So I suggest not worrying about the arbitrary perceived value of a model kit, building them is really the important part. For an example, if these were the real thing, I would be shot for butchering museum pieces with a stellar history, purists would hate on me. As far plastic models go, the one brand is extinct, the box art makes you think it's a nice kit, but when you look at the toy-like motorized engineering it's horrible. The Tamiya is a desirable kit because it builds nice, and is scarce enough to be priced ridiculous on eBay. But I don't care, because there is no kit of the C-111 at all, diecast is another story. Hope this helps......

Thought I saw a Cobra with a connection to Gumball Rally somewhere, very nice tribute! You had to make the Cibie light covers! Nice job on this. BTW: I have the Fujimi Daytona Spyder, just for the wire wheels and Pirelli tires on the 275 NART, built the same kit decades ago. If you wanted to use other aftermarket wheels/tires, and want it, let me know.

Love the paint color, doing a good job far as I can tell, but I should study the advice given. Clear taillights is a pet peeve of mine. I've been using stickers more, avoids the brush strokes, and creates sharp edges. If AAA Insurance isn't in England, then don't know what else to suggest, perhaps red electrical tape.

It's not the most ambitious ever, but will see. Imagine filling in the contest paperwork, can I have another page? Thanks! OMG don't do that to yourself. ?

Thank you! I was inspired by this Lusso, on my someday list. Check out the nail 'polish' rack, I'm sure you will find a color you like. Thank you! Thanks! Only researched *after* I started (sometimes doing so first is a good idea), found some that had V8s, one sponsored by Edelbrock has a Chevy V8. The most common flares are the tacked on type, nobody has done the wide body style. One reason I don't see what others have done, is to avoid being influenced, I like creating my own beast. ? Thank you very much! Doing the fenders was a natural, just followed the classic Mustang lines. Thanks! Appreciate it. Gracias. Funny you and Belugawrx have Cobras in your picture icon. ? Always makes me think of Gumball Rally, at 4:46 is my favorite road south of Prescott. Merci. Even in salt-free Arizona, not many old Japanese cars running around. I suspect all the plastic parts deteriorate due to the harsh UV rays of the sun and heat. Appreciate the comment about the WIP thread, I tend to go overboard on every excruciating detail, it's like reporting to an employer, "yea, I have been working on that, can't you tell?"

I've always used #1, but the new tip has a larger hole, don't see the # on it. Works just as well, can't tell much difference. I think the first step is getting the fire extinguisher, go from there, figure out the pipe thread size. The pressure regulator is important, once I figured out what PSI works, have not changed it. Wish that compressor was quieter, sounds like it's going to fly apart, but keeps churning along. Mounted onto a plywood base, so it can be moved as a unit, carpet under it so it has some cushion for the jackhammer. Stickers are optional.

Compared to a box stock AMT or Revell, yes. Compared to other projects I've done, it was cake. I'm still shocked it took over 110 hours! All that time I could have muted TV commercials. ? Or been at the bar shooting pool. Thank you!