NOBLNG

Bugs Bunny, Road Runner Hour. With Wile-E-Coyote, Foghorn Leghorn, Elmer Fudd, Pepe Le Pew. Daffy Duck, Porky pig, Taz, The Martian. ( I think these were all on the same show)? Popeye The Flintstones Heckle and Jeckle. Huckleberry Hound. Magilla Gorilla Yogi Bear On good days when we could pick up Minot or Bismark ND. I would watch “The Banana Splits”. not really a cartoon but...

Only worth a hundred grand then!?

These are all of the “plastic melting” glues that I have. I use the Tamiya Quick Setting stuff now almost exclusively unless a non-solvent glue is required. They all work well in my experience, except the Plastruct. I bought it last week because the shop owner had it on sale so I figured why not? I glued some .156” half round styrene to some rectangle to make a muffler. When dry, I used a pin to dimple the end so I could drill a hole and it split apart.? Oh, and the plastic nozzle on the testors always plugs up.?

I’m not familiar with this kit, but I imagine the oil pan should have large flat mating surfaces. So if it is falling off, perhaps your glue has gone bad? If the lid was left off, maybe the solvents evaporated?

Thin super glue (CA) will work on close fitting parts, but you will need an applicator like “glue looper” or a home made one in order to apply very tiny amounts. I prefer medium CA as it is easier to apply tiny amounts and doesn’t set instantly like the thin stuff. Either will bond to paint, but the joint will only be as strong as the paint-to-plastic bond is. The best thing to do is get some .020” brass rod (or any tiny wire) and make pins to join all the finicky little parts before paint. Then you are not relying on the glue for the strength and it saves a world of grief during final assembly! ?

I think I used .010”x.030” flat strip for the seams on the roof, and .030” half round for the chrome trim. You can sand the half round slightly to make a half oval shape? I cut the first piece I installed just a hair long and glued it in place. Then made the second piece overlap it. Then with a very sharp (new) blade, I trimmed both strips with one cut.

Can you right click on the pictures on Fotki and save them to your computer? Then upload directly to your post by clicking “choose files”?

I agree! I always search the site first if I am looking for tips or techniques, or examples of models I intend to build. I would rather read a dozen 1 page threads than one that is 12 pages long.?

Wow, nice work on that rig! And the forklift too!?

Get yourself a cheap food dehydrator (one with adjustable temp control) to use as a drying booth. It is also good for keeping your paint cans warm in colder weather. There is a sticky in the Q&A section on them.

Very nice. Good job on the woodgrain!

On a related note, I just tried another test with 1/16” round. The Tamiya QS cement made the bend snap. The Plastruct did not. I got the Plastruct on my last trip to the hobby shop cause it was on sale. I can see why because it sure doesn’t weld styrene together the way the Tamiya does!?

Yes, thanks Guys! Things seem to be OK now.?

I just tried an experiment. I heated the two plates clamped in the vise slightly. Then put the .060” half round in and bent it around the .030” spacer. It stayed very nearly flat.

That is when it usually snaps for me. What size half round and what radius are you using? Any pics of what you are trying to do?

The OP could possibly bend round stock of the same diameter, sand the bottom half off and use the curved section? Not ideal as it makes for joints in the trim, but a possibility?

I see it in this thread now. When I first posted in this thread on Wednesday, it was full screen. None of the threads in “under glass” display it and only some threads in other sections??? Edit: Steven’s ‘65 Plymouth thread does it in the under glass section.

Very cool project! I like!?

I have also heard that coating the strip with solvent and letting it “soak” for a while to soften the styrene before bending may work. I still think it may snap, but you could try a test?

I agree, the roof change looks great on this car.?

Solvent glues will only work for styrene to styrene joints I believe. To glue anything to resin you would need CA or epoxy. I’ve never tried a PVA (white glue) or canopy cement, so I don’t know about those? Best to shape the strips to the contour needed beforehand so the glue is not tasked with holding the shape, especially if it’s a sharp curve.

Where’s the orange peel when you want it eh?

I am retired also, so I work on them everyday unless the wife comes up with a plan for the day. I usually have 2 or 3 going so I am not tempted to rush the paint and glue drying...but this scratch building is obsessive.

I have had curved styrene strips break the instant that I applied a solvent cement to them. I wouldn’t think CA would do that If the strip is already preformed to the finished shape. I have also used 5 minute epoxy which allows you time to play with the positioning, but it does squish out a bit and requires cleanup.

Thanks Steve, Anton, Tom! ? I didn’t like the styrene plank and screws holding the hinge onto the toolbox, so I got rid of them. I epoxied the hinge on and camouflaged the holes. The next items I have to fab are some bumpers and an exhaust system.