NOBLNG

Book reading has never been a pastime of mine due to my short attention span.

It’s looking good. Great work on the flames.?

It’s not bad, but since you asked…that body line should be a little more rounded into a vee shape. Not squared off like the vertical door seam.

Very nice indeed! Great work on the injection system.?

I agree that the rear window should be lower…just about a full window width lower. JMO.

Glad to see you’re stepping up your game a little Steven.? Good idea to make multiple sets just in case. I imagine you will be glueing them back on after the body work and before paint? Try slicing the original letters off with a chisel blade too. They will likely curl and be unusable…but better to try than just sand them away? Good luck.?

I bought a couple of sizes of tiny ziplock baggies at the dollar store. Any small parts I remove from the trees that aren’t being used right away get put in a baggie and back in the box. Great for storing clear and chrome parts too.

You could try contacting Paasche and see what they say. I believe you can also send it to them for service. Good luck. Edit: Here’s a link to the service manual. https://www.everythingairbrush.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/Paasche-Raptor-RG-Manual-English.pdf

State of Florida will likely bring home the Stanley Cup, or maybe not…game four was a disaster!?

That is a beautiful looking Beaumont! ?? I can’t wait to see it in person.?

Fantastic slicing and dicing you’re doing on that ‘49 Ford. I have a couple of those kits now so I am interested to see how it turns out.??

Recidivists should be sequestered.

Soup IS good food!

You could place an ad in the wanted section…maybe someone has a spare one they’d be willing to part with. Or, you could strip it, clean up the flash and paint it with Revell Chrom. You might not even need to strip it, but I would just to be safe…that stuff’s not cheap.

Absolutely outstanding work Francois! Your talent, perseverance and dedication is unparalleled. Kudos!?

Yum1 could possibly be a typo??

Yet again I find myself responding.

The seats look great David…nice work!?

There are already a few threads on this topic, so I will just add to this latest one. I made these just for the look and am not worried about real world performance.? The main thing I did different than described previously by Steve is to use a bent axle shaft to flare the 3/32” aluminum tube. It is important to de-burr the tubing inside and out before flaring to reduce the possibility of stress cracking as the aluminum stretches. Just chuck the tube in a drill and push the axle shaft in while turning….nice consistent angle achieved this way.? I used a set of calipers set to 0.13” as a gage for the O.D. of the flare. Any oversized ones are easily filed back down to size.

Word salad is how some folks like to speak.

I found this to be an interesting video. He has a whole series videos on casting parts. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yMrmepjcN18

You could possibly make a mold of the letters and cast them in resin? Or possibly slice them off with a fresh sharp exacto blade…or maybe a razor blade and re-use them?

Cents or pennies are denominations that in Canada are no longer minted.

I picked up this glue bomb the other day. Thankfully the builder didn’t scrape the plating before glue, so there isn’t too much damage to the chrome. The glue that was there on the bare plastic was dry and brittle so I managed to get it mostly disassembled. I am missing a wheel and tire that I may cast, or maybe I’ll swap them all out? I found an excellent WIP thread on resurrecting this kit. Thanks for posting it Steve!? https://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/81884-xr-6-glue-bomb-restoration-update-11817/ https://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/152735-xr-6/

Good to hear you’re getting well again Bob. Best of luck to you in the future.?