Bills72sj

I saw the ambitious one someone made in 1:1. The roofline didn't appeal to me.

I built all of these Challengers, previously posted, in one batch. It allowed me to mix and match parts for the options desired on each. They were all painted in the same week. Having so many at once allowed me to build efficiently and gave freshly glued or painted parts time to dry before being handled again. Their completion resulted in a rainbow of E-bodies.

Beautiful! Great color and detailing,?

True. The kit let you down by not providing the requisite back up lamps in the rear valence. Nonetheless, awesome looking build. You did well on the body color around the hidden headlight windows.

I like it

very nice! That one has some crisp lines.

Very very nice work.

Very nice! Can I have it? It would save me from having to build one. lol

Thanks Sam, Though I just discovered the rebuildable Pete 352 I went home with does not have any instructions. If you have an extra set and/or scans that would be great.

Ditto. For 1/24 and 1/25 big rigs, this is the solution. 3/8" window backer rod. 20 FT for $3.56 at Lowes. Just stuff a length of it in the tire before putting on the rim. Provides just the right amount of tension to keep the tire bead up against the rim lip.

This model is an approximation of the real Chevelle my friend Mike M. had right after we graduated high school. It was a true SS 396 in red with black stripes, black interior and black vinyl top. It was a 4-speed and the engine was built up with Holley, Edelbrock and Hooker parts. The thing was bad fast too. We had to go WAY out to the country to look at it which helped as they only wanted $1000 for it. If it wasn't, it would have been snatched up long before we got there. This model is the closest to box stock as I have ever built. I did add some photo etch emblems. I am about 70% happy with the paint and 95% happy with all the details.

I agree. Stance is everything. Wheels are a personal choice. Some are more popular than others. The stockers were on for quite awhile. I just wanted to change it up a bit from my limited choices. Here is one I missed.

This Plymouth GTX was purchased and built mostly because the mags in the kit are the closest thing to my 1:1 1972 Grand Prix. I chose the cream color because I had seen one in a car show and thought it looked good. It was the first time I had used automotive (rattle can) paint. This is also the first model I got reference pics for in order to detail the tail panel and grille correctly. The black stripes were added later and are from Keith Marks. After some time, I upgraded the wheel and tire package to 19"ers from the Revell 67 GTX kit. To do so, I had to disassemble the model to open up the top of the rear wheel wells for tire clearance. I really need to take it outside for better pics.

I have no idea. It seems to have magically appeared in my stash long ago.

Beautiful work. Your camera seems to struggle with the depth of field/focus.

Excellent work. The quality is inspiring.

I found a pkg of RC aircraft crimping sleeves at my LHS. They work great

I respectfully disagree. It seems it is YOUR goal to build realistic models. For many, that is admirable. I am a very detail oriented person nonetheless I build for the artfulness of the project. My available build time does not permit me the luxury of perfection even if I barely have the skills to obtain it. My goal is to simply have a case of colorful completed builds that I can admire from time to time.

I hear ya brother. My 30 year old enamels come back to life with thinner. I only have 1 bottle of accidental purchase acrylic and it is silver. (the jar was bigger)

I agree. The only thing that tops a perfect application of BMF is a perfect paint job. I consider BMF one of my FAVORITE tasks.

Minor update. Was going to paint the frame black, but my choice of paint refused to dry. Changed my mind and decided to go red. Started brush painting the red and found the coverage less than pleasing. Went to Wal*mart and picked up a new container and 2 gallons of purple power. Frame soaking.

You are correct. Trailer loading may be an issue too.

There is actually a story behind their purchase on the 1:1. My buddy was getting the car painted by his sister's baby daddy. We were in his dining room and he was looking through newspaper flyers from tire stores looking for wheels to choose. Solid disc Centerline wheels were popular during that time but were spendy. American Racing Wheels made knock offs that were similar in both with, and without round holes. He asked my opinion on which ones he should get. I looked at them and said get the holes for the front and get the solids for the rear. I argued it makes the rear look racy and the fronts brakes get cooling. He liked the idea so he bought them. 15x7 front and 15x8.5 rear. Like a piece of artwork, it compels you to move your eyes checking out front then back to determine the difference. He got a lot of compliments from his choice.

I have once on the individual block letters on my Grand Prix restoration.

This is a model of a car I thought a lot about of years ago. It was what I dreamt of giving my daughter if I had one. (I didn’t. I have 3 boys) Anyway, The kit was AMT’s 70 ½ Baldwin-Motion Camaro. I loved the L-88 style hood and spoilers but didn’t like the graphics. To replace them, I had Keith Marks make me up a set of metallic magenta SS stripes. A few of them got rubbed through in the mail so he kindly made me two more sets (for free no less!) As it turned out I’m glad I had all the spares. I had a hell of a time laying them on the curvaceous hood bulge. I ended up using 8-10 pieces to get it fairly decent. The rear stripes were just as bad. It took 5 stripes to get two right. I am really pleased how all the lights turned out especially the front turn signals. I BMF’d the buckets, then yellow Sharpie’d the clear lenses. I knew they would be too yellow, so I orange markered the BMF inside the buckets. That gave me that amber color I was shooting for. I then silver dotted the nipples. The headlight buckets were also BMF’d then, I blue dotted the lenses before gluing them in with Testor’s clear window maker. The interior was a challenge. Most all of my model’s interiors, are basic black. This time I wanted to try something different. I thought gray would be good but by itself it was too plain. I started painting the inserts with metallic burgundy but it wasn’t covering very well. I stopped and painted a silver base coat then applied the burgundy. I used a red Ultra-fine point Sharpie to draw the piping. The dash and package tray in gray still did not look right, so I changed them to semi gloss black. I also did the console and the armrests to tie it all together. As much as I dread doing interiors, at least it turned out halfway decent. I was going to put gauge water slide decals on, but after the 3 hour ordeal with the hood, I just wasn’t up for it. At least the glove box got a “Camaro” script.