iBorg

For your holes, work from the back side. As for your flats. Those look really good. REALLY good. I'd knock off the shine with lacquer thinner and get them dirty.

Fred.....first off, very good explanation. I teach in a Graphic Design/Printing Technology program and cover intellectual property such as copyright, trademarks and patents although not directly related to model cars. Students typically get more into topic discussing music and other forms of pop culture. Fred's explanation is dead on with one exception. " Someone copying from a decal printer who has the rights to the design could get a cease and desist from the original car owner or designer but not the decal guy. (If the copyright owner assigns exclusive use of their copyright or trademark, this would be the only time the decal guy would be able to get a cease and desist order) If you didn't get the rights to reproduce a design and someone duplicates your work, you got nothin. To go a bit further. Trademarks apply to corporate goodwill such as trade names like Ford or Chevrolet. A better legal protection for a 1:1 racer might be a registration of their name although if you use a brand name such as Jungle Jim, or Blue Max that can be trademarkable. The use of a driver's name and likeness is considered protected by an individual's ability to control their right of publicity. It has long been held that individuals have the right to control how their likeness, name or image are used. Technically almost all resin casters violate copyright when they reproduce a scale replica of a 1:1 automobile. Even such "dead manufacturers" as American Motors or Hudson live on in trademark, both owned by FCA who bought the prior Chrysler Corporation. Copyrights have a limited life span with several factors the effect their length. Trademarks last as long as they're considered in use. That's a rather nebulous term. For example the old Topper Toy trademark of Johnny Lightning was considered abandoned and Playing Mantis was able to reuse the JL name. They tried to do the same with the Sizzler name, only to be rebuked by Mattel. I believe this is one reason we see exclusive runs of limited edition toys at chains such as Target during the holidays.

A bit of a disagreement. Late 50s-early sixties, A/G. A B/G would be a small block. AA/G if you add a supercharger. Mid sixties, is when the Anglias and late models came in. It'd still be a legal A/G, just not competitive like the 409 Impala I was offered in '75 for $350. Still classed as a top of the class Super Stock but it couldn't compete with the hemi Darts. One of several bad auto investments I made.

Before you do that, let's talk. I'm sure I can find some suitable options.

Its great.....but. The mock up seat is a 70's pro stock unit. I know as I search for them. I'd suggest either a bucket out of a Cobra or Little Red Wagon. You could also use the stock seat. Very few cars of this era had a head rest.

Just found this......yet another great piece of inspiration. Absolutely love it.

Guess that hint didn't work.

Are the kits opened? If so fold the boxes down and use gallon bags to store the contents. You'll be amazed at how much air you store on your shelf. The spray booth will break down by removing 20 screws. Unless you have a lot more than in the photos, with the exception of the spray booth, all you have will store in 3-4 medium size boxes. I'll admit I sell on eBay and other spots. With the amount of reissues on the market, older non first issue kits just aren't bringing what they used to. I'd keep them. Even your paint may last. Store decals in zip lock baggies with minimal light. Resin bodies need to be stored to prevent warpage, which may be your biggest challenge.

This I can say unequivocally, it's heads and heals better than the Revell original. It ALWAYS drove me crazy that this car was called a dragster with a round tube chassis. Gasser rules required either a stock chassis, until about 1966, or a rectangular fabricated chassis. A round tube chassis would kick it into the altered class. I'd gladly trade what you have for the Revell original.

Looks like the beginning of a great survivor car from a few winters too many. I've been told the best weathered cars start with good body work.

One of the best examples of fabricated frames was the Doug Thorley Chevy 2 Much. See: http://rods-classics.com/content/1964-chevrolet-nova-chev-two-much-ii-afx Many others were cut and sliced framed as Tarheel Rick discusses. Some but not all of the cut and sliced frames had reinforcements added between subframes. If I were to build it, I'd add that as extra reinforcement if good especially if your cuts are not exactly exact, if you know what I mean.

It's in 1/23.297 scale if you......oh never mind. Its late and I'm being obnoxious. I agree the van seems to be a mixture of real vans. The best think to do would be to sit it beside a 1/25 van and see how close it is. I'd imagine it as a short wheelbase.

Curious as to the differences between the snappers and the glue kits.

I saw some today at our Krogers, a grocery chain. Had a pack thet had blue, red and orange report covers.

Maybe report covers for school papers?

Nice backdrop. Looks very realistic. Tide car is nice. Background just lacks trash and people to believe its real.

I'm pretty sure I remember these from the old SLM group.

I'd like the Stroker McGurk. I never saw it at my LHS. The Corvette and T-Bird might show up in my buggy also.

Ron I disagree with you. I hate the noses people are putting on the hoods of the car.

I've got both of these. There's differences in the hood as well as the tail light panel. I believe there's also differences in the front end sheet metal. I agree Okey has made a valiant effort but he lacks the capital to make a go of it. I also question who has the molds for the Rambler, Comet and 'Cuda as the last time they were run was under the Testors banner. For all we know they could be in Round 2's storage facility but the molds not fit a current molding machine.

If you consider how much is shared between the Comet and the Maverick the amount of new parts to make the Maverick isn't that great. The body, grill, bumpers and tail lights. For the amount of demand, it seems fairly doable.

Did you make the decals? I know either Cady or Slixx made a set for the white Firebird but I've never seen a set for the black one.

I've often wondered why more of these kits haven't been converted into pro stocks. This is one to watch. At first I thought the hood scoop was incorrect but Warren Johnson ran one very similar.

Okay, I'll try the hair dryer. A candle seems a bit inconsistent. For round shapes I use the tool handles from this: https://www.harborfreight.com/25-piece-doming-block-and-punch-set-93539.html My question is how did you get the pieces to stay together. I'm trying to just do the roll bar without the head restraint....I can glue it but its temporary at best.

I want to think the AMT version of the Monza is close to a shovel nose. I agree the Revell isn't truly accurate for this car but is a pretty good body for most Monza funny cars.