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While that's true you did it in 1/25th plastic and it looks just like it was done long ago, so an ataboy on that. You mentioned wanting to have the letters and numbers raised on the license plate. I don't know if there is any photo etched lettering that would be in the proper scale, but it was just a thought. Will this stay in Black Primer or go glossy in some other color ?

I tried to open your message and I think the problem is I'm not on Face Book and it will not let me in to read your message. I would like to here from you about any additional information you may have. We'll have to figure out another way I guess.

Great looking build. Besides the detailing that you did it looks well engineered enough to be streetable . I like looking at and trying to figure out the source of all the different parts that went into this build.

Look'n good. One of my all time favorite kits. I like your Carson Top type treatment.

To bad about the paint crazing. There is always that outside chance that the paint job can be ruined using automotive or "Hotter" paints. Sometimes just staying with the same brand of after market paints works better. I hope you can get the finish to where you want it.

Very clean detailing on the body trim and the engine. Nice to see the Wide Whites for a change.

I think that with a little work on the front bumper you could easily emulate the "California" bumper. The kits bumper has some relief lines to represent the less desirable front bumper used primarily where streets were heavily salted. You could sand down the kits bumper and fill the lines with filler, but I would recommend just stripping the entire bumper and after making the changes to the bumper use your favorite chroming method on the bumper.

Sorry to hear of your loss. We'll hold you and your family in our prayers.

I like the "shadow box" license plate mounting.

I happened to be at the Winter Nationals when Ford showed up with the Thunderbolts and I think that memory is why I prefer the '64 model. I think either one would work as it would just depend on your personal preference. The Revell kit makes it pretty simple to build a '64 Drag Car, but this kit could just as easily be used to build a '63 body into a Drag Car.

Have you tried using Bare-Metal Foil on small engine parts ? I have done Valve Covers and Air Cleaner tops along with other small parts. I use the Tamiya pointed cotton tips to work the foil around the parts details. I start in the middle of the part and slowly work the foil into the parts smaller details with the pointed cotton tips. The pointed tips work great in getting the foil to conform to the shape of just about anything.

Kurt, your picture is making me laugh at myself right now. Not ten minuets ago this was me on our back deck trying to encourage the Geese that they should stay on the lake and off our grass. Mine is a '177 so it just makes life a little uncomfortable for them, but they're slow learners.

I thought that might of been the case. I have built several of these kits through the years but I'm more of a street machine type builder so I don't build but a hand full of these then.

From the top shot picture it looks as if the builder was trying to replicate the '58 Ford 4-light tail lamps. At one time AMT offered a lot of different front and rear body treatments and with this it looks as if some may of even come from other AMT kits of the time. I still have some of those style decals in my stash from back then, I'm sur they would be unusable today. Nice save here.

Looks neat. When that model first came out and the 1:1 was first on the streets the Maroon color was very popular. Besides the nice detailing of trim in your restoration the color choice makes it look richer to me anyway.

This looks like an old AMT annual. They used to have plastic inserts to glue into the chassis plate. These would have two sets of holes, one for stock and one for lowering the ride height. I agree the photos are out of focus but I'd grab this in a second since it looks like a relatively easy restoration project or just clean it up and display it as a blast from the past.

I always glue the wheels to the axels for a couple of reasons. #1 So they can be positioned parallel to each other. #2 So the model will not roll of the shelve or display area. Now something I learned reading the information provided by others is that I've been building for years and never thought of "Flat Spotting" the tires to simulate a tire under the weight of a real car. This could also compensate for any slight difference in ride height of the model. Makes perfect sense, just wonder why I never thought of it. Thank you.

I would be interested depending on which ones you have. I now have the Revell Mustang LX from a couple of years ago that had the CHP option. The '48 Ford coupe has some generic type decals and I have a set I bought from Chimneyville Hobbies some time ago. I'm trying to replicate a '50's era CHP car using the '50 Oldsmobile as a basis. I've only been able to find one old b@w photo on line and it isn't the best quality photo anyway. If you have something you think would look better yes I would be interested and thank you for your offer.

That's a great deal.

If you told me it was a custom Ford Mustang or Torino I wouldn't argue that. Who ever did this rebody of a Firebird did a beautiful job with the body and to my untrained eye it looks like it could be a Ford product.

For what it's worth my new '74 Chevrolet CC1500 short step side with the 454 engine was painted a red/orange color.

If you're looking at using either a Cream color or the Butternut Yellow I would lean toward the Yellow. This is a personal opinion based on the color being light enough to not shout at you but has enough contrast to show the models body lines. One point that many forget with a loaded question such as this is that not everyone sees a color the same way. By that I mean the shade or depth of color will look different to different people. So what body style and era are you building since that can change a color decision also ?

I use a Dremel Multi Pro model #395, I have had it so long I don't even remember when I bought it but I know it had to be over 20 years ago. The operating range on the side of the unit shows 8000 to 35000 RPM. The rheostat has numbers from zero to 10. Working on plastic models I usually run it no more than 3 and usually around the 1 or 2 mark. At close to 35000 RPM I've cut wood moldings for a flooring job in our house. This thing will get wood smoking pretty good if that's what you want.

I also like the Flames and the paint work also. Nice interior details. I haven't seen anyone use the Royal Lancer Hub Caps for a while, very keeping with the them of the build.

The thing to remember with BJ or any other Auction of this nature is that they didn't build these cars and they don't inspect them either. The Lots are owned by individuals or Dealers and are on consignment for the Auction company to sell. BJ and the others collect a commission from both the seller and the buyer to pay for the dog and pony show in TV for fun and profit. They tell the bidders up front that the sales are AS-IS and it's up to the buyer to do a visual inspection prior to bidding. I sold a pick up that I had fixed up, I had bought it new, a few years ago at the Mecum Auction here in KC. The Dealer from Nebraska that bought it got a screaming deal on it considering what it was. But I still got more than any locals here would pay for it and a little more than the Dealer where we had ordered our new car was willing to give us in trade. There are some deals to be had in my opinion but you still have to look for signs that the consigner isn't just putting lip stick on a pig.