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I'm glad to see you're back after this one. It looks like a good kit and an interesting subject. I looked at the Fiero when it first came out. Problem is I'm 6'3'' and the console held my right arm at such an angle it was hard the shift. Also the top of the windshield was in the line of sight so that was a problem. Still they are well engineered and I have always liked them. Looking forward to see your build on this. If you should change your mind there are many who have put Cadillac Northstar engines in these.

Sorry, my bad. I thought the guestion had to do with the fuel pump for some reason. But that does beg the question, what is that anyway ? Your puke can idea I think will be best.

If you're thinking of the object toward the front of the engine from the oil filter I believe it's the fuel pump and the "can" attached to the bottom would be the fuel filter. If this is correct it is a screw on affair with a disposable filter inside.

Beautiful paint work. I like how you did the chassis detailing. Not everyone remembers that MoPar din't paint lower control arms. That color of the rust treatment looks perfect.

Great body work, I like the way you changed the rear of the body. That Gold looks nice, maybe a Candy Red or Blue to follow ??

Very nice super clean build. I like the hood you added.

I like the way the body decals turned out. The wood racks look great. What I find most interesting is the chassis detailing and all the plumbing. Not sure what it's all for but it looks very realistic.

Looks like it's ready for the A main race. Your diorama looks just like some of the great clay race tracks.

Mike 51 makes a very good point about the surface to which you are applying the film. Something I have started to do is to mask window trim and even body moldings before painting the body. This leaves a very smooth surface to apply the foil too. It will also leave a very defined parting line since you will often lose much of the definition between the moldings and the body during painting. I have also studied how the moldings themselves are on a 1:1 car. Almost all moldings are fairly strait and use small trim for corners or where the join another piece of trim. I will cut my foil to mimic the 1:1 piece. By doing the moldings in this way there is less chance of the foil getting "balled up" at corners. The same thing with body side trim. They are usually straight pieces with breaks at each door opening. I just try to do one short section at a time. This all may seem very time consuming, but for me the results are worth the extra time. Foiling is one of those things that can and will drive you nuts but once you find what works for you it no longer seems that hard.

I don't have any photos, but they do work well if that is the look you're going for. They allow the body color to show thru to some degree. I think it might look best on a lighter color body rather than say a black body color.

Very nice. Your attention to the realistic ageing is dead on.

Very well done conversion, A '41 Ranchero with the Country Squire trim option. Love it.

Great looking build so far. I really need to build my 300 someday.

I have experienced this problem on a few older kits. But I have to blame myself for not storing them correctly. Usually these melting tire problems go back to some time in the past where a kit was exposed to high temps. Years ago it was more common because of the materials used and the shippers leaving a cargo in a truck sitting out in the sun or an unconditioned warehouse.

!:23 and 1:29 are '61 Fords, 1:34 and 1: 37 are a '60 Plymouth. High tail fins for high speed stability. Ha Ha.

I needed a set of wheels that used to be called Anson Sprints in the '60's. I had a set on my '67 El Camino. The reissue of the AMT Avanti had just what I needed. I'm also told that the Sock It To Me Corvette has some big and littles that may work.

Great looking color and finish. The wheel and tire combo really fill out the wheel wells.

AMT used to have a '76 Nova Hatchback model. With the exception of the roof it would be an easy conversion to a PD car.

With the skills you have shown on this build I would think this would be a piece of cake. A grid of flat plastic stock glued together with a couple of moldings, done.

All it needs is a pool liner in the bed, fill with water and a couple of bikinis.

Really turned out great. I like the "new tires" wrapped in the bed. That really sets the time line for this build.

What a great looking Caddy. Beautiful super smooth paint and all the little details , like the headlights, really set it apart. The wheels are what really gives it the "presents" or look.

It looks like your Clear paint was to "hot". Maybe see if the supplier of the body color coat offers a clear that would be compatible.

I have also purchased this kit for the same reasons but for a different build. If you can get $8 to $10 for what remains I think that would be a good deal for both parties. The person buying your kit would have a chassis and suspension. Wheels and tires and an interior. They could even use parts of the body to update an older Mustang. For my self I would hang onto the remains for all of the reasons mentioned.

I don't know for sure about the fit between the AMT and Revell Camaros as far as the hoods, but I have my doubts that they would just fit. The same for the '68 grill but it wouldn't take much. Just add a little material to the hood as needed, or removed. The same for say an AMT '68 Camaro grill. The remark I made about the AMT '68 Camaro body had to do with the proportions of the body and the way it is shaped. Others have posted here the problems, and also the cures, on these bodies. I think if you can look at the body before investing in the kit you'll see what I mean. An old AMT '68 Camaro kit at a swap meet still might be less expensive than buying a resin reproduction grill that you might have to work on anyway. I just think the new Revell kit would make a better basis for the body. Oldr-N-Drt, I love that name I'm going to change mine to Farts Dust, suggested the resin body made of this exact Camaro and in the long run that may be the answer.