espo

Great looking builds. I like that you tend to build them as they were when they were new.

Just noticed your comment on unusual dune buggies. I was at the local Model Shop and they had a rerelease from Round 2 of the VW type I that had a shortened wheel base and the body area behind the door shortened as well. The kit offers several building options which included a shortened body pan with just roll bars and the option of sand tires and also slicks. It was originally kited by AMT. If you haven't seen this yet you might look on Round 2's web site to look at it.

Great looking shelving unit. Some ideas to consider to help show your models. The lighting idea is good, but also consider painting the inside face of the cabinet a light color. This will make your models more visible. A light off white color in a semi gloss or even the color of your walls in the room. This will make the cabinet seem smaller. The glass covering is also a good idea to protect your models from young admirers.

I always use Tamiya white primer unless I'm painting a very dark color. I have found that even on many darker colors seem brighter with the white base,.

30 years ago it would be uncommon for the parts to be bagged. As for the lose parts that could come about just by the handling of the box for the last 30 years plus shipping.

As long as the blue paint you're using isn't to opaque, you might have a problem if you're using a gray or dark primer.

I agree with all the others, this is a really neat build. The decals turned out perfect.

Great looking builds. I like the "Bomber Art" on the black V-12 coupe.

Great looking car, the model is outstanding also.

Great repair on the wheel wells. How large are the holes in the trunk lid from that spoiler/roll bar ??

Very nice looking work area. Looks well laid out with everything at hand.

I live about 25 miles west of Overland Park Kansas, which is the main sorting facility for the KC Metro area, at least on the Kansas side of the state line. My wife's mother lives another 10 miles due west of the same hi way. When ever anything is mailed between them it is always sent the next day from the local Post Office too O.P.K were it is sorted and then loaded into a truck to be go too the Post Office closest to the addressee and then delivered. This means any mail will take at least two days but usually 3 days to go 10 miles. At this rat of two days to go 10 miles it should take a minimum of 10 working days for you to receive your order. Anything less and you will owe the USPO a bonus for speedy delivery.

This is a great tutorial with information I never realized about decals. What I was suggesting was how I overcame a similar problem using a method I learned from someone here on the forum. What I used was a simple clear decal film that is sold in many Hobby Stores. An ink jet printer was used to print the graphics and then after giving the ink time to dry the sheet was then sprayed with Testors Decal Bonder. I think the film was also from Testors. It worked well and I have used it on several other projects that required me to make my own decals. Your information far better explains what sounds like a better process. Thank you again for the information as it helps me to better understand just how a decal is correctly made.

You did what now ?? I think it come to your home address.

The blackness behind the A pillar may be the Roll Bar. There looks to be a hoop behind the front seat and this could be the front portion going down toward the dash board.

I think the problem that you would run into with the Gold Bare Metal Foil is that it is thicker than the normal foil and doesn't like to conform to small details. What I have done is paint the grill portion with Tamiya X-12 Gold Leaf brush paint. I would use several light coats. The gold metallic in the clear tends to settle in the low spots, like the "openings" in the grill. Then use a black wash of either Tamiya X-19 Smoke black or The Detailer Black-It-Out. As for the Hood and Trunk V's and the Bel Air lettering and fender markings I used the X-12 Gold Leaf and cleared it with Future floor polish. I also use a touch of Future instead of glue to attach the moldings as it dries clear and holds well.

A couple of ideas. #1 Rust-Oleum Textured indoor/outdoor paint. I used black for Hemi valve covers and as a vinyl roof, they offer other colors also. If you're going for multi colored effect this may work as a base coat. #2 Krylon Fabulous Finishes Suede. This would be an even finer finish to use as a base. This also works very well for fabric inserts on interior seats and door panels.

Even if the kit has been sealed there is no way of knowing the condition of the decals, and because of the age they may not be that much better. If the decals you have now still look good, maybe slightly discolored, just scan them and reprint them on new decal paper. I had to do this when the first '49 Merc Woodys came out. The dark wood grain decals just kept falling apart. I scan the kits decal sheet on my home fax/ scanner and then reprinted them and they worked perfect. Worth a try and the cost would be minimal.

Great exhaust work. A real mix and match, but that half the fun.

These were great cars in 1:1 and this kit was very nice for it's day and still a great one to build. Since others have pointed out the discrepancies between the box art and the kit, I have noticed something that my mean nothing to you, but. The body of the kit shows the callouts on the front fenders for a 289 engine. But not just any 289, the 271 HP 289 that I believe could only be had with a 4-speed. Ford experts here my prove me wrong, but the few owners of 271 HP Fords that I knew back when only had 4 speeds. They included a '63 Fairlane and two Mustangs. I only mention this for your information as to how you want to do your build and if this sort of thing even matters to you.

Another fun experience on this subject. A couple of years ago I was in need of Tamiya Finish polish and nothing else would do. I went to my normal small privately owned and operated hobby shop. They were out and their supplier couldn't give them a date as to when he could get any. Next stop was Hobby Lobby and they also were unable to get any. So I tried Amazon, and they listed it as available for next day shipping @ $10 with free shipping. Gave them the AMX Card number and expected it to arrive within two days, their promise. Well a week later I'm E mailing them about the polish. They now were having problems getting it, but promised I would get it with the week. Now add this up. They charged me $10, the package arrived from Taiwan with over $15 in postage and Amazon apologized for the delay and even gave me a $10 credit on my Amazon account. So it cost Amazon $25 to give me a free tube of polish. Definitely a class act on their part. I saved the stamps just for the fun factor but now I can't find them. At least this was a positive experience.

Between the information from Longbox55 and berr13's paint suggestion you are well on your way here. I personally really like this kit although there have been others since that are more accurate. The only draw backs, if you want to call them that, that I can see are the side moldings are not right. Close but not 100% The Bel Air trim for the inset was done with a decal in the kit and that is just a little short of what it should be. The advantage for myself, as a former owner of a Two Ten hardtop many years ago, is that this area is smooth and all that was left was to shorten the trim on the top of the rear fenders to make a Two Ten version. The interior is a pretty correct Bel Air pattern. While not as detailed as some of the new kits of this subject it is still a solid kit to build whatever your trying to build. I look forward to seeing what you do with this.

Pharoah is correct on the gold trim. This was only on the Bel Airs and all others were either chrome or polished aluminum. I recall building the AMT kits and used a gold leaf type paint with diluted flat black paint for the back ground. Now AMT has offered two different '57 Chevrolets. So by original are you speaking of the one with the optional 409 engine with a super charger and no detail in the side trim for a Bel Air, or the much more accurate one with the trim detail on the sides and opening trunk and duel quads ??

I have owned several black cars in the past and after every one of them I have said never again. I'm somewhat obsessed with vehicle cleanliness and do stress over these things more than most. So for retirement I bought a new '05 GTO in metallic black with black leather interior. Well I did have a little more time on my hands to look after it but still. So my "bride" of 30 years wanted a new car in '14 and she wanted a Dodge Avenger RT. Since getting in and out of the GTO was getting harder and harder with my back we traded the GTO on the Avenger. I have since found out that bright metallic blue is not all that much easier to care for.

Looks great. So every time you get bored you can just drag this onto the bench and have at it.