If you are forced to buy a kit just for the engine and you want a period Hot Rod Flat Head, look for the '50 Ford pick-up. It has the Arden overhead conversion, looks somewhat like a Hemi, and has 3-2's with nice stacks instead of air cleaners. Also has some nice beauty rims and hub caps. You could always build the pick-up later with the engine from the '29.
I have had very mixed results with resin cast parts and bodies. In to many cases its just more trouble than its worth, What I did do on a resent build that I wanted a cowl hood for was use the hood from the '69 Nova SS. I cut the cowl portion of the hood and cut out the center of the hood for a '66 Impala build. The hoods are the same thickness which helped and only used minimal filler. I would suggest you try making your own, and if it turns out the way you want then cast it your self for the future.
This would seem like a rather ambitious build, but some times its better to not know what you don't know and just jump in with both feet. This should be fun.
Your added details really make this engine standout. I'm with Hakan, I think the top of the plenum is 180 out. Look forward to seeing the rest of your build.
You're of to a great start. On the engine, one thing I notice is that it looks like the oil pan and the block are cast together. You may want to sand and fill as needed so this is not as noticeable on the oil pan. An engine can have as great a difference in the look of your build as wheels and tires, Look at pictures of 1:1 cars and try to mimic what looks like you are trying to build. Because the engine block is usually sand casted the painted finish is usually flat or semi-gloss at best. The oil pan and valve covers are smooth stamped steel and usually turn out semi-gloss to gloss finish. If you are building a Street/Strip model then many of these parts could be chromed or cast aluminum or even polished aluminum. Parts like starters are usually different shades of black as are brackets unless its a Show Car where all this could be chromed. In some cases you may have cast aluminum heads and intake manifolds which may also be polished in some cases. A little thinned flat black or Detailer Black-It-Out will really show the cast detail on the engine. Look at the different colors on pulleys for the drive belts on the front of the engine. The most important thing is you are enjoying what you are doing.
Looks like you're off to a great start. One thing that always bothered me about these AMT Chevys was the front window frames. They just seem to thick and the windshield seems like it's "tunneled" or something. I would like to see if you have any ideas on correcting this look.
I was lucky enough to pick up a can of TS-29 Semi Gloss Black yesterday from my regular hobby shop. Hopefully this is a sign that any shortage is over.
I enjoyed looking at your finished build earlier today. If you notice the date on my post it was 2 months ago. I have been watching your build as it went along. The way you finished the rear side windows looks like something that would work.
I tried it on a two-tone '56 Nomad custom. I was trying to cover Model Master Pearl Orange and Light Ivory. Just didn't get the Pearl Affect I was going for. It may of just been me. So you really should paint some spoons and see what happens before you try to paint your model.
Looks great. You mentioned what you thought were problems with the build, your hard on your self. The stance looks like your leaving an intersection. The hood may be very simple. It looks as if you may have mounted the hoods chrome upside down. If it doesn't jack up your paint you could try removing the chrome bar and flip it over and see how it looks. Very nice looking SS.
Looks great. I have to agree on the painted steel wheels. If not the baby moons then look for a set of the small caps from the 210 kit. Always a good looking cap for Chevys. Paint the wheels body color and the suggestion of trim rings would help set the wheels. Remember just a little lower in front and maybe a staggered tire size.