Fat Brian

Brake fluid does work but may be a bit overkill depending on the type of paint you used. For Testors or Krylon you can use something much easier to deal with like Simple Green or 409. If you used Tamiya paint or Duplicolor though brake fluid (not cleaner!) is the way to go.

Yeah, without valve covers it would take a real guru to spot the differences in the bare block.

It's already in a junk yard, there's no saying it wasn't repowered once in it's life with whatever running engine was laying around. I'm sure it happened in real life somewhere.

For anyone wanting a correct engine for the Commando kit the Honcho kit has a pretty nice AMC big block in it with Jeep markings on the valve covers.

I remember the same method but likewise don't remember where I saw it. Basically, a razor blade was held horizontally between two adjustable shims and clamped to a table leaving just the corner of the blade exposed. The tire was laid flat against the table and rotated carefully across the exposed blade making a straight and repeatable clean cut.

I found Rival Sons through the Andertons guitar channel on youtube and like them better than anything I've heard in a long time.

Leo is great, his cover of Africa with Rabea and Hannah is awesome.

It is, that's the only version of the truck that came with the fleetside short bed and they're getting hard to find.

I would love to have a few of these, I'd build one as a replica of my uncle's truck.

I know, the Lexus kit is pretty hard to find. If anyone has it I'd love to try to get the dash cast.

Are there any differences between the Fujimi 2.5 and 4.0 kits? I'm really looking for a 95/96 model because that's what my real SC300 was and it looks like the 4.0 kit has the secong gen bumper cover. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003982ALW/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?smid=AI931RMV8EPMU&psc=1#

Yeah, I picked the Fujimi kit with the aftermarket BBS wheels a few years ago and now they want over $100 for that kit. Where does the Aoshima kit have body issues, it looks okay in the pics I can find? I'm combining my kit with a Tamiya Supra to convert it to right hand drive and give it some under good details.

I was hoping someone would have an opinion on which kit is better. I have a Fujimi Soarer and it's very nice but they're getting expensive compared to the Aoshima version.

I think I'm going to throw my hat in the ring on this one. I'm doing the AMT 77 Mustang II with donor parts from I think a Revell Mustang of similar vintage with the 240 straight six from the Moebius 69 F-100. The engine is going to get a turbo and modern electronics and I will scare up some tunery style wheels from somewhere.

The Latham supercharger can't move enough air to provide any boost to an engine as big as the Allison. At stock gearing a GM 8-71 blower provided roughly atmospheric pressure to a 568 cubic inch engine, it would take three 8-71 blowers to do the same for the 1710 cubic inch Allison. You're best bet for adding power to the Allison is one of the turbo setups Bill posted, look up pulling tractors and power boat racers for ideas for designs.

Great, thank you. I knew I couldn't be the only one irritated by that part.

Gary only accepts checks or money orders so the only way to order is snail mail but the products are worth the effort.

I love this kit but that flat grille bothers me so bad. I know it's a small thing but it irks me.

To add even more confusion to the engine color question most of these trucks could be purchased as a "glider" without an engine or transmission. When the truck was eventually finished there's no telling what color the engine could be. Also, if an engine is extensively rebuilt enough the engine shop will usually repaint the engine then as well, usually the factory color but sometimes not. When I built a very worn and weary 359 I painted an engine that would have come white as tan to represent it having had at least one major overhaul in it's life. The moral of the story is, you can find a reason for an engine to be just about any color as long as you have a good story behind it.

I'm doing my best, it's 8 degrees this morning. Yeah, twice into the stripper is unusual for me, normally I'd just buy another kit and start with a fresh body.

I'm working on a L9000 and used the Able Body sleeper from the GMC General kit. I didn't want to use something identifiable as a Peterbilt or Kenworth unit. I made mine a crawl through, I didnt look to see if a walkthrough was available.

This one has to go back in the stripper again, the second coat wrinkled on me. I don't know if it's the cold or what but I'm going to switch paints too.

In a new endeavor in self flagellation I've come up with a way to make tire cables out of small jewelry chain and guitar string. I've had to order some cheap bulk strings to get enough for all four wheels so it will be a while yet until I can finish this, hopefully the weather will clear so I can get some painting done.

Warren is right about the CUCV, it's probably the easiest to do. Get the Deserter kit that's out now and a resin long bed from Kris Morgan, there are great threads on military model forums about some of the changes that need to be made. If you're feeling more ambitious you could use the soon to be reissued Jeep J10 and snowmobile kit to make an M715. For heavy trucks, if you can find a Freightliner FLD 120 kit you can make a military style prime mover.