Fat Brian

Yes, it's honestly one of my favorite parts of a build, figuring out how a vehicle came to be the way I'm building it. I think this started because I'm allergic to building anything stock and had to find a rationale for the things I build. How elaborate it gets really depends on fun the story becomes. Here's a recent example of a deep story dive:

At first I thought those were pics of the real car you were building a model of. That is truly incredible work.

I'm subscribed to that channel, the amount of people who just cover things with spray foam is truly astonishing.

I brush Molotow from the refill on small areas but it doesn't lay down smooth over large areas. Bare metal foil is your best bet.

Unfortunately, a lot of "classic" model kits don't hold up today. I took a shot at the Monogram Bad Man kit last year and halfway through I was wondering why I was subjecting myself to building such a bad kit when good 55 chevys exist. I feel like kits of that vein need a high dose of nostalgia for the builder to tolerate their shortcomings.

One thing that makes that particular kit difficult to lower is the metal axles. To lower the front you'll have to cut into the engine block unless you find a different way to mount the front wheels.

I believe it was listed as a modified reissue so they'll probably add a flat hood and make sure the decals are correct.

It was listed as 24th scale so hopefully it's the Monogram kit.

It's an interesting question, is there intellectual property tied to a tooling that no longer exists anymore? Round2 has shown that they can copy and improve a tool and theoretically that could be done to any companies tool.

Yeah, the engine is trash in that kit, along with most of the rest of it. If I ever get around to building mine it's getting a full chassis swap and a new engine. I don't know what Revell was thinking in those days with all the sad kits they turned out.

There is a set on ebay but they're a bit pricey. If a have or know someone with a 3d printer there is also a file on cults. https://www.ebay.com/itm/134061992750?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=I_8LjZN6Sbm&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=CNi_i6G9QKy&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

The MPC Fire Truck kit will get you a small block Ford and headers that look similar to what you need. I think one of the versions of the Revell Tweedy Pie will get you most of the rest of the way.

There are a couple versions on Cults if you know someone with a 3d printer.

I trim off as much as I can and then paint over the rest.

I got it figured out, I used a boolean modifier to cut the hole in the tires bigger. I've done more in Blender in the last few days than I did in years before.

I made some progress last night and found a post about how to do what I need online. Once I get to sit down with it tonight I'll try to reproduce the post I found. I'm also going through a video tutorial about the basic controls. In the program I started using 20 years ago you had to manually enter vertices and faces so Blender is a big step up.

I have Blender, I tried to learn it around 10 or so years ago when I was still doing 3d modeling but bounced of it due to the complexity. I downloaded the latest version today and will try again. I know the effort will be worth it if I can figure it out.

When something is sold as a collectible everyone keeps it so there's none of the rarity that drives the value of other things up.

What is a fairly easy easy program for resizing models? I know most of the slicers let you resale the whole model but I want to make the hole in a set of tires bigger without changing the overall diameter.

She accepts it, she has her own things she buys. She does get frustrated if my stuff encroaches on other parts if the house too much.

I've got a spare one of those, pm your address and I'll get it to you.

I got a Phrozen Mini 8k S before the holidays and now got around to setting it up. These are my first prints other than the test prints. I used Lychee slicer and automatic supports. I'm very happy with how these turned out, I figured they would fail a few times just due to the thin and complex shapes. I can see how this gets addictive.

Pieces of sprue or scrap plastic glued in with plenty of liquid glue will make a good, strong patch that you can then sand smooth with a bit of putty.

Awesome, I've been eyeballing them for a long time and never felt like paying the ridiculous price for one.

The engine from the stock version of the Revell 76 Torino might be interesting.