Fat Brian

I've had both but not at the same time. I do believe they are the same though.

No, "day 2" is typically period correct mods that would have been done by the original owner. This is about adding stuff to make an old car perform like and have the creature comforts of a modern car.

I don't think it's necessarily sleeperball. Where a sleeper is supposed to look unassuming a restomod can be a real or clone of a factory performance model with all the badging. A 'Cuda with Hemi billboards is not a sleeper but can be a restomod, especially if it's a clone.

Engine and transmission swaps are completely allowed under the bolt on rules as long as you don't have to butcher the car to make it fit. Getting the modern performance and reliability of an LS or 5.0 or 2jz swap in an older car is totally the spirit of restomodding.

Both of my pens only lasted about six months but my refill has lasted a couple years now. I save my water bottle lids and when I need to use molotow I put a few drops in a lid so my bottle is only open for a few seconds at any time.

I feel like making the definition that broad is basically doing "run what you brung" again. Maybe we could limit mods to bolt on stuff. Engines, axles, better brakes, interior mods, wheels and tires are fair game but tubs, wide bodies, independent suspension conversion, things like that are prohibited.

Ive got one I think I can drag across the line. The chassis and engine are ready to drop in, I just need to paint the interior and attach the chrome.

Yeah, the engine bay in the Lotus is really tight. I raised mine since it was built for an off road rally so that let me lower the engine a bit but it's still almost touching the hood.

Yeah, the full race chassis swap on the Galaxie seems beyond the scope of "restomod". We shouldn't prohibit chassis swaps but it needs to stay a stock style suspension setup. Say you're building the AMT 79 Firebird kit you can upgrade to the AMT 70 Camaro chassis since it's just a more detailed version of the stock stuff. This one is going to be difficult to judgeğ since it's such a nebulous concept in scale. It's easy to go too far and end up in pro touring.

About any of the Japanese hobby paints are better than Testors. I've almost completely switched to Mr Color brush lacquers and Tamiya acrylics. Having gloss black and silver paint that actually dries has been a big deal.

When I was 9 or 10 years old, around 1990, my dad bought me a big compilation edition of CarToons. I was a bit young for some of the humor but loved the artwork.

I don't want to over commit myself but if my Cannonball car can pull double duty I'd be more than happy to participate. It will be a Mustang of some sort and definitely Ford powered.

That Lotus sounds similar to my last Peking to Paris build. I took that kit and put the 2.2 from one of the Monogram IMSA Mustangs in it.

I've got a straight six build planned, I'll jump I here.

It's out of the Moebius 65 Comet drag car. It's probably the best version of the cammer in a kit but I think the ones from Texas 3d Customs are still a bit better overall.

Yeah, the 429 from either of the Revell Torino kits would be a good candidate for a factory phantom or day two build.

Yeah, the 70s was a dark time for model accuracy.

It doesn't have the correct engine to be built stock, it has an 427 which had been phased out by 73 and a Boss 429 which was gone by 73 also. You'll need a 351 Windsor or a 351 Cleveland to make it actually stock.

I recently paid a fair amount for a Cougar and I don't know if I need more than one of those but I am looking forward to the Nova.

Here's a link to buy the engine Ace is talking about, I agree it's your best option for a hot but not full race 392. I've bought from this seller a lot and has good experiences. https://www.ebay.com/itm/115938165131?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=Vx5zeMoiSYW&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=CNi_i6G9QKy&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Here is someone selling printed copies. https://www.ebay.com/itm/255766309966?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=609VLjblRAW&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=CNi_i6G9QKy&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

My first guess would be to use a textured paint and then sand it a bit to flatten the bumps but leave the valleys between them.

The Revell 66 might be a good start for the 65, you'd get the entire chassis and running gear from one kit. For the 68 I'd try the 69 Cutlass and the engine from the 68 Firebird when it's back later in the year.

Yeah, Krylon paints are pretty hot, even the "paint plus primer" ones. Duplicolor white is my favorite primer but you'll still have to work in thin coats.

Not old in the grand scheme of things but old to me, I built this 60 Starliner from an original issue kit in the early 2000s so it's creeping up on 20 years old if not at it already. Complete with plug wires and carb linkages along with XS tuning wheels it was probably my best build until the last few years.