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  1. My friend Jimmy asked me to build his 1941 Ford out of a '40 kit that he has had for quite some time. Although started, I was able to carefully take it apart... This is his truck From the looks of it the only thing I will need to add are the extra chrome strips up the front of the hood, and take the bumperettes from the front bumper, and get rid of those louvers on the hood,... but if anyone sees anything else feel free to comment. He tells me it's a Jaguar colour, but I keep bugging him saying 'why a Chevy colour on a Ford.'?..lol More to follow as it happens Cheers
  2. Started to head a bit off track in the AMT 1936 Ford thread, so starting this one on the Monogram kit. If anyone wants to add in information on other issues of the Monogram 1936 Ford, please feel free to do so. Going by the instruction sheet this issue of the kit was offered in 1974, a convertible only version of an older 6 in 1 kit that builds a custom 1936 Ford. It does not come with stock wheels or engine. Replacing those items would appear to allow a factory stock car to be built from the kit. The instructions say the kit engine is a 1948 Mercury with a 3 carburetor set up. It can be built top up, or top down. The rumble seat appears to be designed to be movable allowing it to open and close. The Monogram and AMT kits build different convertible top vehicles. The Monogram kit builds a convertible or cabriolet, the AMT kit can be built as a roadster. The convertible was a higher end vehicle with roll up side windows for better protection from the elements. The Roadster has no side windows and uses a different windshield which includes wind deflectors on either side. The kit
  3. Just finished this 1930 Packard Boattail Speedster by Monogram. It’s an old 1/24 Museum Pieces kit I found on eBay which unfortunately came to me missing quite a few parts. I can’t really complain though since it was only $15. I actually thought it was missing the interior door panels too, until I realized they were molded veeeery faintly into the interior tub. In addition to cutting the door panels out and building some new ones with styrene sheets and metal wire, the fabricated mods include most of the other interior bits, rear bumper, engine bay detail (distributor, wire router, firewall, etc), exhaust and front headlight bracket. Currently on the lookout for better wire wheels, as the kit provided set is probably its biggest weakness. Too cold/rainy in nyc for the usual outdoor pics, so the photo booth will have to do. It’s also probably going to be my last build using spray cans, as I finally made the leap and bought an airbrush setup. Time to hit the boards and learn how to do everything all over again 😂 Last pic is with the 1:1 I used for inspiration 🤙🏽
  4. I've been having so much fun building vans, I dusted off my old Monogram Vanpire that I've had in storage. I couldn't resist since I've always thought the Vanpire decals were cool & a bit frightening as a kid. To be sure, I sprayed them with Testors Decal sealer and they settled down like a charm. I had fun with this build. I cut out the moon roof openings and propped up the moon roofs. I also drilled out all the lightening holes in the steering wheel for accuracy. I mounted and painted the CB radio and 8-Track player. I tried to weather the bottom a little to show some wear. I also toned down the bright shiny chrome rims with Tamiya Smoke. Finally, I printed and attached my own Florida license plates. If you have a Monogram Van kit in your stash, I highly recommend you build it. It goes together so well. BTW, the other Monogram '77 Chevy Street van is exactly the same as this one right down to the extra port holes & optional windows. The only difference is the decal sheet. I hope you enjoy looking at the pictures as much as I had building this gem. Many Thanks!
  5. tbill

    1930 Packard

    Finished this a few weeks ago, built one as a kid/teen, I think this one came out better, haha. Pretty nice kit for its age, and I think I’ll build a few more of these monogram classics kits, something a bit different from my normal muscle car and big rig projects . As always , thanks for looking.
  6. More here.... Revell Model Building | Online Shop | 1970 Plymouth Roadrunner
  7. I thought I would share what I am currently working on and what is keeping me away from my 1:12 Tamiya/Ebbro Matra MS11. I am building the Boot Hill Express for a Halloween themed FB group build. I have 1 month to build it, (the month of October), and have underestimated how long it is going to take me. In my defense, I am going a little above and beyond with it but not overboard. As with just about every build thread I do, I am further along than what I am posting. I like to document what I do for two reasons, (mainly). First, it helps me to remember what the heck I did and secondly it may be of some use to one of my fellow modelers. In this thread I will caption each photo as needed. I would love to hear from you guys. Let me know what you think and what you may have done differently. Thanks! Mine is the 1994 issue of the Boot Hill Express. It was molded in a horrible orange styrene. Why?!?! There was a lot of clean up that went into this. Too much to list but let me say that I worked on just about every single part with only a few exceptions. I also made the decision to strip all of the chrome and airbrush it in AK Interactive Xtreme Metal Chrome. More to come shortly.
  8. More here... Modellbau | Revell Online-Shop | 1985 Chevy Camaro Z28
  9. After my highly-detailed and involved 1/12 Tamiya Porsche 934 build I was looking for something a little more low-key to build before jumping into another big project. When I was a kid I started off building the Monogram classic car line in their 1979 series boxing, and wondered what could come from doing a nearly box-stock build of one of these models using the skills, tools and techniques I've amassed over the last 40 or so years. Ironically I decided on the model I never actually got to build back then... the elusive Mercedes 540K Coupe. The 540K Coupe represents a completely half-arsed attempt to turn the roadster kit into something different by adding a roof and rear fender skirts but ignoring the other differences between the coupe and roadster. The few 540K Special Coupes that were built had differences in the fenders, hood vents and spare tire cover vs the Special Roadster that Monogram initially kitted up. My modeler's OCD kept bugging me to fix those inaccuracies but in the end I decided to keep the build pretty close to box-stock. The only variances are some PE bolt heads for the rear fender skirt fasteners and some Tamiya mesh for the air cleaner as well as some styrene reinforcements where the bonnet sides meet the top part. The vast majority of this build was spent fitting and tweaking the bodywork. Mold lines, including a particularly nasty one that ran across the rear fender, deepening panel lines and block sanding the body made a big difference. The bonnet fit was key... my main goal was to get the beltline chrome trim to run in a perfect unbroken line down the entire length of the body. The frame required some grinding above the rear suspension to keep it from interfering with the interior tub which made it sit too high in the rear. The running boards took some work to keep them from fouling the frame rails as well as getting them to sit flush with the line of the fenders. I was able to attach the separate roof piece using Tamiya thin cement and I reinforced the inside of the joint with CA glue. The only filler required was a couple of thick coats of primer. Paint is Tamiya Deep Metallic Blue over Metallic Blue with Light Sand for the interior. Chrome is a mix of kit chrome (bumpers, wheel center) and airbrushed Molotow (grille, headlamps, side pipes). I stripped the chrome from the kit wheels, thinned the spokes and painted them the body accent color. Despite all the work I put into the rest of the build the thing I'm most proud of is that all four wheels actually touch the ground. I never managed that on these classic kits when I was a kid! N I enjoyed this walk down memory lane a lot, enough that I'm looking at the Duesenberg Murphy Convertible Coupe as my next victim... that one might wind up with a bit more detail, though!
  10. Here's another project that's been sitting around here, for a couple of decades. Interestingly, it's yet another Monogram model, as well! I gave consideration to redoing the California Street Vette, once the Mack was completed, but decided to go into the current quarterly "Bring Out Your Dead" thread, with this, instead. This was begun probably before the turn of the century--although I don't recall when, exactly. Since I took it back out of the box in pieces, I have done some work to the chassis. I added bottom frame tubes, and rebuilt the side bars in the cockpit, along with the fuel tank support/brackets. I'm not completely decided, as far as wheels. I like the dished Halibrands (I think that's what they are), but the two-piece wheels look cool, as well; Those, however, will need to be narrowed. I've made molds, in case I choose that direction, since I only have the pair, as well. I had already selected a set of nice Corvette valve covers for the car, so I will use them. Hilborn fuel injection. Quick-change rear from a Monogram sprint car. Although it's too small, I am using a steering box from one of the old MPC funny cars. It's not all that visible, anyway, and it fits! I removed the kit firewall and replaced it with aluminum flashing. I also removed the hood. I want to make it from flashing, as well. It's curvier than any sheet work I have done, before, so it will be a nice challenge! If that goes well, I may attempt the nose, as well. I'm unsure of the origin of the rear tires. I think they may be from an AMT Lotus or the Willard battery car. The fronts look like AMT's from the early '70s--they look like the tires from my original Pepper Shaker--and they may well be! I started work on a new front spring and axle. The headers will need to be redone, between the ports and the dumps. Since these photos, I have notched the lower firewall to clear the lower chassis tubes, removed the nose from the hood, and filled that hole on the right rear cage upright with acrylic nail resin. Speaking of the spring assembly: I've known this for a couple of years, now, and have mentioned it before, but it bears repeating--in bold Italics!: There is no better way to precisely apply liquid plastic cement (NOT superglue--MEK, etc.) than an insulin syringe. None! Don't tell me "I like this", or "I prefer that". There is absolutely no debate! 😉 Using the plunger, you can push out the tiniest drop of cement. Just touch the joint with that, and you're done. Need another tiny drop? Just squeeze out another, and go. No mess. No excess. Need to flood it on? Hey! That syringe has you covered. Anyhoo, without further ado... As always, questions, critiques and comments are welcomed and appreciated! Thanks for looking.
  11. Kitbash of the classic Monogram Ferrari 275P curbside/slot-car, a 1990 reissue of the 1964 kit, and the Revell 360 Modena Spyder that is sort of a curbside since the hood did not open, but had a window over the engine. Work In Progress I found the 275P at a Phoenix model swap last month, then saw the Modena and it was crazy time. Started Tax Day with a mock up, started butchering on the 18th, worked like a dog until the 3rd at Noon, just before heading up to GSL, 132 hours. I did rush it, could have spent a couple of weeks sanding and polishing, and it would probably would have ended up in the box like a few other projects. I just wanted something different than the typical super dooper shiny muscle car on the table. I didn't have time to write a build document, but had this for the description: Blasphemous and sacrilegious kitbash of a historic Ferrari race car that won Le Mans two years in a row, and another Ferrari that only has a 3586 cc 395 HP V8. Story is, this car was found in a chicken coop somewhere in Venezuela, missing the 3285cc 320 HP V12 engine and transmission, the aluminum tub was badly corroded from chicken poop. The Modena was bought at a tax auction, it was rolled by the drug dealer during a police chase. Built by a shop wanting to do a reality TV show, but never got funding because it’s just a Ferrari and not an American muscle car. Some of these pictures were taken at Page on the way home.
  12. I'm looking for the up top from the Monogram '59 Chevy convertible kit. Please Pm Me if you one available. Thanks!
  13. NOBLNG

    Shelby Cobra

    I picked this one up at the local flea market. It was partially assembled and painted so I disassembled as much as possible and stripped off the gold paint. It was missing one headlight, so I fabbed a couple new ones. The decals were missing too, so I downloaded some pics and printed the badges. It’s not a bad little kit except for the vague mounting points for the windshield and wind wings. Color is Tamiya white under Mr. Color #100 Wine Red and Revell gloss clear.
  14. Just finished my ‘65 Impala. It’s an older kit that fought me on every turn - I was due for a struggle and I got one. Fitment issues and warping were the biggest hurdles but we worked it out 😉 I tried messing around with the paint technique on this one - I went two light coats of tamiya pearl light green over silver leaf followed by some heavy coats of TS-13 clear in an attempt to recreate the look of the 1:1 (the bottom one in this pic). It turned out ok, all things considered, but an airbrush would have really been the better method - I could have mixed a little light blue in there for a more even turquoise finish. Oh well, I’ll get one someday… Only mods were to the front and rear dashes, and the engine bay, otherwise its straight out of the box. Have a nice weekend everybody 🤙🏽🤙🏽
  15. Here’s my build of the ‘94 Mustang Cobra Indy Pace car. Overall this is a very well designed kit and it goes together very nicely. The body is painted Tamiya TS-8 Italian Red over red oxide primer. It was polished with Tamiya Finish compound, followed by a coat of Pledge floor gloss. Interior and top are Tamiya XF-93 Light Brown, along with semigloss black accents, with a single coat of floor gloss on the vinyl and leather surfaces. Wheels are TS-30 Silver Leaf. The decals were very thin and fragile but I managed to get them down without any tears, applied before the floor gloss coat. I’m very pleased with this one, and I’m one model closer to my collection of every Mustang generation!
  16. It has been nearly a year since I finished a build, but it’s nice to finally have another lump of styrene for the display shelf. This ‘89 Mustang GT was started early last year and after making quick progress on the drivetrain and interior the work stalled for a while as other builds and shiny objects grabbed my attention. The body was prepped and primed, then doused with some vintage DupliColor Ford Light Gray that I’d spotted for 99 cents at Ollie’s about 10 years ago. It was a color I remembered from the 70s and 80s and just needed a build to suit it. After the color and clear coats, it was sanded and polished before mating it with the interior and chassis. These 80s and 90s Fox platform Monogram kits are rather simple yet I prefer them to the MPC/AMT variants of the same era. I remember buying the first version of these when it was released in ‘87 as The New Monkee’s Mustang. That kit incorrectly had the pre-‘87 interior, engine, and chassis but the body seemed more accurate for the ‘87+ than the MPC version of the GT Hatch that was also just hitting the KMart shelves. Later releases of the Monogram ‘Vert like this one corrected the interior and included a reasonably accurate updated 5.0 HO with F/I. This later version also had an accurate decklid luggage rack that the Monkee’s version lacked. It went together relatively easily without much fuss. The most challenging aspect of these kits has always been the simulated louvered taillights. If Monogram hadn’t penny pinched, they could have molded the tails as two or three piece units with separate lenses and louvered covers. As they are, however, it makes for a tricky and stressful bit of work to get them reasonably accurate. It could be worse, though, as the MPC/AMT kits had the entire lens/louver units molded into the body. There’s a great low mileage example of this car and color combo that a quick web search located, so it became the reference for the build and its details.
  17. Hi All. Thanks for the kind words about the other models that I've posted. I've built 7 models in the past year (in this, my second, phase of model building ) and I'll go ahead and post them since you've all been so welcoming. This model started out as a Monogram stock '30 Ford Coupe that I began as a chopped hot rod many, many years ago. Since I've gained an appreciation for rat rods and patina cars I went in a different direction to finish this ride (plus I don't think I could really live with a rat rod in 1:1 scale). I chopped the roof a little more. The 6-cyl came out of the Moebius '53 Hudson Hornet kit. The z-d frame was scratch-built from styrene. Thanks for looking. All of my models built during the past year have names appropriate for the times; this one is "Infectious".
  18. Here’s my latest, an ‘83 Mustang GLX convertible by Monogram. This is a fun little kit that goes together pretty well. My only issues were due to this particular kit’s rough shape, and the up-top and frame being slightly warped. Also the rubber tires were rock hard so I had to hog out the insides to get the wheels to fit. I built it mostly box stock with some metal transfer emblems added. The body is painted Tamiya TS39 Mica Red over TS30 Silver Leaf, and the interior is Tamiya XF55 Deck Tan, with one coat of Pledge gloss over the body, up-top and parade boot. It’s not perfect, but this is my best paint job thus far! So I’m very happy with this one.
  19. Quarantine build - vintage Monogram kit from 1990. This may be on of the finest kits I've ever built.
  20. Been on a bit of a stock build kick lately so I decided to change things up a bit. Since I’ve been sitting on 2 of these kits, I figured it wouldn’t hurt to experiment with one of them. The purist may want to avert their eyes. I didn’t do much more than lower the ride height and slap on some Pegasus disc brakes/wheels and tires. Anything that was chrome or is supposed to be chrome has been treated with Alclad Black Chrome; something else I wanted to experiment with. The paint is Model Master Gloss Black, decanted and airbrushed with ScaleFinishes 500 clear. This was my first crack at a solid black paint job. Looks good from 6 feet away, but I’ve got beaucoup room for improvement. Comments, questions, pointers and critiques are always welcome. Thanks for looking. Namaste.
  21. Here are my two builds from the beginning and end of the long running third generation Mustang Fox Body. MPC’s 1979 Mustang Turbo Hatchback and Monogram’s 1992 Mustang GT Convertible. Enjoy!
  22. Here’s my Monogram Ferrari 308! It was an early release, sealed, bagged no-box kit from eBay, molded in red. It’s a curbside kit but it goes together great and has some decent detail. This was my first attempt at the Bare-Metal-Foil-before-you-paint-it technique for the emblems, and it didn’t come out great for the deck lid Ferrari script or the side Pininfarina badges. I think I’m still laying my paint on way too thick, so there wasn’t much of a raised script left to strip the paint back off. Anyways, I think it turned out well enough for my shelf, and lessons learned for the next one!
  23. Here is my Monogram “1992” Mustang GT Convertible. I built this kit as a color scheme tribute to my 1:1 Mustang, a 1993 2.3 LX. My original idea was to kit bash this GT with an SVO or ‘83 GLX to create an LX ‘vert but all three of these kits are expensive on eBay today and I just don’t have the skills or stomach yet to cut up two $40-$60+ kits ?. So I settled for my car, but as a GT! I used Swarovski Crystals (meant for ladies’ custom nails) from Hobby Lobby to simulate the headlight and turn signal bulbs. And I used the actual belt line stripe tape left over from my 1:1, cut down for the 1:24 belt line stripe. To do those blasted cheese grater taillights, I painted them all white first, then used silver and red gel pens to color the lens sections. It’s a little sloppy but looks good enough. I messed up the clear coat on the hood too so I’ll have to repaint it at some point but it’s not that noticeable in these iPhone pictures ?. You’ll notice that the parade boot is grey when it probably should be white or blue. But my 1:1 came with a grey boot so I painted this to match! The previous owner also shaved the trunk luggage rack so I did the same here. I’m very pleased with this one and can’t wait for a nice day to photograph both cars together!
  24. I got started building weathered street rods years ago after reading an article titled "Beaters" by Pryor Passorino in Plastic Fanatic. Since then I've been learning techniques from the military guys and applying them to my hot rod efforts. My latest will be based on the venerable Monogram '36 tool that has been around since I was a kid. I'll be using the Revell 2 in 1 "Car Show " version. Getting the proper stance is no more difficult than substituting a length of evergreen channel for the stock front crossmember. The rear is already perfect. Floquil rust applied to the whitewalls provides a more realistic yellowed appearance. I used the salt and hairspray technique to accomplish the rust spots. I used Testors enamels and Pantene hairspray. The body is first airbrushed with Testors rust, followed by and application of hairspray and a dusting of salt in the desired areas. There are a million Youtubes demonstrating this technique. Next comes a layer of flat white followed by the color which is a 50:50 mix of green and blue metal flake. Finally the salted areas are sanded with 400 grit. I will follow all of this with a layer of Testers Dullcoat. I've decided to go hoodless and will install a blown flathead. More to follow.
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