misterNNL

At first I thought that your outdoor photos were of the inspiration truck you were going to build a model of ! Real world quality stuff for sure. Thanks for sharing your talent with us.

A great build. Even stripped to it's basic elements it makes a real statement with a stunning paint job.

Where did you source the figures?

Thanks for posting this link. It's a great insight into our own childhood experiences and memories. Well worth watching for any of those with about a half hour of spare time to spend instead of the usual TV wasteland we are supposed to find entertaining today.

Thanks for this insight of a period of auto transport history as seen from the driver's perspective.

Now that I have answered the spring thing, who knows what that little thing on the rear fender might be, a light maybe?

Those tapered coil springs were an after market accessory part. I have seen them in person on model T Fords.

I would imagine the same rules of surface preparation prior to painting would apply here. That being that a imperfect surface will result in a poor looking finished plated part. Of course Modelhaus parts were perfect when they arrived at the player's thus perfect end result. No substitute for great prep work I guess.

Love it! Where did you source your details like plumbing and wiring.

Link does not work.

Thanks Bill. I thought you would know.

Gotta be quite rare. Never new it even existed till right now.

I have to disagree here Howard. I unboxed a mint in box Fokker world war one tri-wing fighter plane and applied my saw in several places and no matter "how I cut it" it makes a terrible looking belly tank racer with zero aerodynamics. I moved the engine to the center like the photos shown here and everything. Still looks awful. Sorry,no photos available for posting ?

If you want some unique options and are able to work with resin check the offerings from Jimmy Flintstone. I personally did some masters for the Modelhaus years ago using the rear section of the venerable Reveal '53/'54 Chevy sedan delivery kit to create both a Studebaker and a Nash deliverys.

Thanks for posting these in progress photos and where you made your major cuts. I'm sure those will get used by many builders as a guide for future projects.

I know posed that question as it wasn't weathered like the rest of the sheet metal parts.

Nicely done Tom.

I recommend using Micro Crystal Clear instead. I use it for window installation. It dries overnight and will not attack whatever you're using for glass.

There are also some scratch built RVs and campers if you look in the "light commercial" section under "post your Rvs here" heading.

Nice build. The real ones are rarely seen on the road.

You might as well embrace the addition as it lasts a lifetime. There is no known cure. Many builders enjoy different parts of our hobby such as the initial body changes, but not the finish work like sanding and paint. Once they pass their favorite part out comes the box and away goes the project into storage for who knows how long.

Based on this one view I like it. Any more pix avail ?

I have personally seen the Lake's speed shop " car run in 1960's. It was quite a phenomenon in its day.

IMHO the locomotive would be even cooler if painted a Testors metalizer before assembly and all the parts buffed to replicate an aged steel look.

What are you going to use for the motors?