vamach1

I've got to ask if you do not mind. Seeeing how 1/12 diecasts are pretty expensive but very nice an available at the click of a button, how many hours do you estimate this will take and factoring in your time to your price, what ball park are we talking about?. This is only a wild guess but assuming 80 hours to bulld plus the cost of the kit, paint and supplies, I would think this has to be at least over $2,000 (what that is in pounds) or even more. Other than someone offering me a few hundred dollars to build the most basic 1/24 kit I do not see how this can be a profitable venture unless someone has a lot of money to throw your way. I would love to see it when it is finished. I bought one when they came out but only got as far as reading the box and buying an extra tire. Perhaps I may buy the decals to do a different version than the #2. On 2nd thought maybe if I could sell these for $100 (using the pre-painted bodies) I could make a little cash. If anyone is wondering yes the #8 is 1/87 scale. Picture of ACME 1/12 attached - $600 on EBAY.

Even with plastic hoods I will paint both sides and then tape it into the body where it will stay unless I am working on the mode which may not be for weeks or even months.

My Mach1 is code 6E.

Great pictures. Thanks for sharing.

Those yellow orangish colors are a challenge. Model car World should be able to mix it. I will start will yellow over an orange base and if not satisfied try mixing my own. I have some very large spray cans of Wimbledon white and grabber blue for a sprint I had and of course Medium Bright Yellow of my Mach1. Those came from Mustang parts vendors and it's made by Raindow Industries. I did some more searching and it is slim pickings for exterior paint. All I could find is one vendor on Ebay that might custom mix it for about $20. None of the Mustang places sell the body paint anymore. Probably some environmentalists complained too much. Found one more source that looks promising but not cheap. See below for TouchUp direct.

Nice modification. Perhaps a tire swap is possible. The letters do not do much for realism. I've got the Hotwheels, Revell, JL and of course plastic kits of the 67's.

Now that is very nice. One of the best original looking unmolested ones I have seen.

Yes - I have a friend with a 73 Mach1 that color and it's on my list - just a hard color to find a match. Funny how it look green on my screen.

Come by Greenbelt Community Center for the December meeting (still the 3rd Saturday) to see familar faces. I make the drive from Virginia almost every month.

I will look for them. No close ups that I remember but it should be interesting to some of us old timers. Color slides were mailed on Monday. Hope to see them on this thread next week.

Hmmm - may have to squeeze in a visit after the MAMA meeting in Greenbelt MD.

Somewhere I have some color slides of a MPC contest at an auto show in Washington DC in the 1970's.. Anyone know if there is any easy way to convert them to digital pics?

As long as it is realistic, i.e., could it be built for real I say why not? I've seen plenty of 4x4 classic Mustangs, most of which want to make me puke but I'd never say that about a Cobra. Well, unless you do a pink one which you probably already have. That would be like taking the fangs out of a snake. Please provide a warning if you post a pink one.

The Boss rear side windows look a little wonky but for $10 not too bad overall.

Side mirrors are wacky and chassis is a joke. Worth $10 maybe.

Thanks for the reminder. I ordered the replacement parts years ago but have not tackled this kit yet.

Focus on the basics. Practice spray painting. There are many types of primers, colors and clear coats. The y do not always work wel together. There will be some setbacks. Use real cars for reference for painting guides. Always foil or paint chrome trim. Use washes for grilles and wheels. Use flats for chassis - a glossy one looks out of place unless it's a pristine show car. Don't forget emblems, and other small details. Start with engine basic wiring to improve realism. Consider using other parts (aftermarket) to replace ones that are too toy like. Be patient - set a project aside to let paint dry. There are some good books on the subject - these are just a few ideas.

I see it and believe it. Keep them coming.

Marcos Cruz might have some tips as he built a really nice Bullitt from the Revell kit. I'm guessing he did a lot of test fitting so there would not be a lot of surprises at final assembly. I do not remember any particular issues with either the 67 or the diecast based 68 but sometimes it is best to install the engine last if possible. If you have a second kit I'd glue the body parts together and check the fit and decide what the best mods would be before you put on layers of paint. I have not built the 68 plastic kit (only the diecast version) so perhaps the conversion to plastic did not work as well as Revell and hoped.

Classless comment by Francis in that other magazine saying they should have sold the company. That is a personal decision and none of his business.

Looks good but I could never justify ponying up that much cash for one. HRM's kits are not inexpensive either but I like knowing I support a one man operation that makes great kits and transkits with the option to buy any of the parts separate.

I'm guessing you like Mustangs. Great job. Is that Capri a stock kit?

Not to disparage the US companies but it takes a lot of work and scratchbuild or resin parts to make a lot of the US made kits realistic looking as many of the molds have been around for decades. As Richard mentioned, Tamiya has great kits if you are interested in their subject matter. If you are open to building just about anything, look for kits with the most realism. If you narrow down what you want to build based upon era or car brand etc., then start searching on Ebay where you can find almost every model ever made in the last 50 years and then try to find kit reviews of what looks interesting to you. You mentioned one particular car but it's hard to make recommendations without being more specific. Also, do not eqate cost with quaility, especially older kits that cost a lot due to people willing to pay a lot because of the rareity and subject matter. A $200 fifty year old kit may be no better than what just popped out of the molds last month for $25.

Well after reading all that I'd buy a 67/68 69/70 or 71/73 Murtang convertible or coupe for that matter if they were based on the newer kits with actual engine compartments. A 71-73 Mustang has to be an all new kits but I'd bet there will never be one. Although I am a boomer I could care less about anything pre early 60's.. The demand for those kits will wane in the next 5-10 years when the few folks that we have inspired will probably not be locked into liking only a few decades span and types of cars. My two cents anyway for what it's worth.

Pretty much sums up why most o us end up here. Informative and civil.