Snake45

Sounds like Franklin Mint. They ran a lot of ads in various "mainstream" magazines back in the day. Haven't seen ads like that for a long time, except in certain car magazines, and those are for overpriced 1/18ths.

I used Frisket Film.

Thanks Don!

Big congrats to Dave Branson and LL3 Model Worx! GOTTEM DONE! Which reminds me, we're long overdue for a status update, so here it is: ROUND 5: FINISH DATE DECEMBER 31, 2019 Straightliner59: SS/GT Firebird #1 Model Citizen: '49 Ford Tudor Dave Branson: RMR Resin Van FIRST COMPLETION! GOTTER DONE! Moving on to Honda F-1 Misha: ‘49 Ford Tom Geiger: Trabant 600 Panel Wagon Prostreeter69: Pro Street Bronco Bobthehobbyguy: Ghost Rider Corvette Modlbldr: '64 Tbolt Snake45: '66 Chevelle TarheelRick: '69 SC/Rambler Bernard Kron: '29 Ford roadster MAKING GREAT PROGRESS! LL3 Model Worx: Joker Goon Car SECOND COMPLETION! GOTTER DONE! Okay gang, we've got about a month left in Round Five. Let's GITTER DONE!

I tried Frisket back in the '70s. It worked well enough for some things, but I found that it had a number of drawbacks and ultimately wasn't worth the expense/effort to obtain. I still have some around somewhere, but haven't used it in at least 30 years and haven't missed it a bit.

Very nice! Ya done good! I use my model-fu skills on non-models all the time. For example, The Lovely Mrs. Snake will sometimes bring me some little tchotchke like a figurine or something of a friend or relative that's broken. I'm able to superglue or epoxy it back together, and with my huge stash of both car and military paints, can usually come very close to matching any colors necessary for touchup.

Both of them look fabulous! Well done and model on!

Very sharp! I especially like the color and stance--it definitely has the right "attitude." What is the copper paint?

This could be either very difficult or pretty simple, depending on your skill level and expectations of finished results. The RIGHT way to do it would be to strip the original paint, but this requires a special primer (for the metal) and so forth. You might be able to mask off the (existing) black stripes, then scuff up the exposed paint slightly with something like a fine Scotchbrite pad, then the blue paint, or perhaps a primer and then the blue. I doubt you have an airbrush, so you're probably looking for a commonly available spray can paint. What shade of blue is it? Give us an idea and we can recommend some suitable paints. It would be helpful if you could post a pic of the model, and, if you have one, a pic of the real car you want to replicate. It actually might be a good idea for you to try to contract with someone here to do this painting for you. I think we have several members in Alabama, and of course USPS goes everywhere. The trick will be finding someone who has the time and desire to do it within your timeframe and budget. But it's very possible you could get lucky. Another idea is, it might be possible to find another diecast Mustang that's already painted in the blue you want. I can think of at least three or four different '65-'66 diecast Mustangs that have been made, and they've been issued in various colors, so you might be able to get darn close. Again, showing us a pic of the real car would be a BIG help. Or at least any details you can give us--was it a hardtop, convertible, or fastback? Was the paint the factory color, or was it repainted later? And so forth.

Yeah. These cars sold originally for, what, $120? I've been able to score three or four of five of them, without boxes and papers, of course, for prices between $20 and $35.

You could do it either way, keeping in mind that masking adhesive is more likely to leave residue on the the flat surface, and it will be harder to clean off without damage. I'd paint, clear, and polish the rest of the body, then mask off and shoot the flat black. But as I said, you can go either way.

The current issue of Hot Rod Deluxe--I got mine at Walmart last week--has a 5-page feature story on this car, plus a couple pics of it at Pebble Beach this year.

Thanks, Pappy! It actually has a full engine--including plug wires!--and underhood detailing not unlike the Monogram 1/24 kit. Everything under the hood is black plastic, though, except the chrome valve covers (which SHOULD be black!).

To be honest, I just didn't do anything at all to the interior. Maybe I'll take the roll cage out sometime. Thanks for your kind words! Thanks, Pappy!

Great save and two nice models! Well done and model on!

As I said, don't think about it too much, just have fun with it.

Fabulous work, as we've come to expect from you. Smokey Yunick's colors?

Yet another one I never knew existed until I bought it at the local toy show. It was made by CMW. If you want a fairly decent ’71 Hemi Cuda model, you build the Monogram/Revell 1/24 kit—unless you are a stickler for 1/25 scale. In that case you have to find a rare and expensive original MPC annual, convert a semi-rare JoHan Pro Stocker into a stocker, or convert the recent ’70 Revell into a ’71. Or find one of these CMWs. The CMW model was obviously reverse-engineered/cloned from the Monogram 1/24 kit, just shrunk to 1/25. This includes the incorrect separation of the front valence panel—not too hard to fix in plastic, a bit more complicated in metal. I left it alone for now. The entire grille and front bumper area is molded in one piece and chromed. Improvement required some 2nd degree Snake-Fu. I carefully masked off the upper rear edge of the front bumper with razor-cut masking tape, then tediously brush-painted the grille inset area with Testor Lime Green to match (more or less) the paint on the body. The grille openings got black, and the back of the headlight lenses got flat white on the ends of their stems. I colored the chromed taillights with a red Sharpie, and detailed the Plymouth Rallye Wheels with black, Testor Aluminum, and Tamiya Dark Metallic Gray paints. These wheels are quite tedious to detail, but the results are well worth the time and aggravation. My Silver Sharpie and tire tread sanding block got their standard workouts. Rather than try to paint the side marker lights, I instead laid some Model Master Turn Signal Amber and Stop Light Red on a piece of self-adhesive label stock. When dry, I razor-cut the side marker lights and simply stuck them on. MUCH easier and cleaner than trying to paint them in this case. Yes, it’s missing a side mirror. I’ll find something to stick on there sooner or later. In the meantime, it looks great on the shelf with my other 1/25 ponycars, unlike the Monogram 1/24 kit, which kind of dwarfs them by comparison. Thanks for looking and as always, comments welcome.

I've done that sometimes, too (and sometimes with Silver Sharpie). Didn't this time because the '69 Charger side marker bezels aren't chrome, they're body color. (I believe the same is true of the '71 Cuda. I'll shortly be posting up my own '71 Cuda, where I handled this a different way. )

I don't have a problem with that, we can "assume" it rotates whatever direction you want. But the prop blades have a definite front side and back side to do their job, and it won't work--at least, not nearly as well--if it's mounted backwards. Just turn the prop around so it's facing the correct way.

Thanks for the kind words. I didn't respray the hood, just removed the tampo graphics with the nail polish remover. Don't worry about the rant. Almost any discussion is good discussion! Look forward to seeing you in the BOYD build at some point.

I just started restoration of a "very distressed" '67 promo. Last night I compared the body to the "new" kit's body and was surprised how close they are. I've been assuming that the old one had a much better shape. Well, it's a little better, but I wouldn't say "much" better.

You had me until you stuck the airplane nose out the rear. If you're going to do that, you might want to reverse the prop so at least the blades are propelling it in a forward direction.

Very cool! You probably now have the World's Largest Collection of this genre.

Oh that thing is just hella cool! Last year I bought a '7? Chevelle NASCAR with the plan of converting it to a street bomber. Couple months ago I scored a clean JoHan Cutlass promo, which I'll use to sili-clone the headlight buckets. Biggest problem with the Chevelle body will be the front wheel openings. Do I have the skill to build up the stock shape, or do I go with the story line that someone actually took a retired NASCAR and put it on the street as a freak? Just had an idea. I've bought several copies of AMT's '72 Nova just for parts. I wonder if the front wheel openings could be cut from those fenders and grafted onto the Chevelle body? Hmmmmmm......