Snake45

Thanks for the leads. Looks like I might just have to make one out of wide masking tape, or something.

I'm looking for the tonneau cover from an early issue of that kit, as I have the "Pro Shop" boxing that doesn't include it, and I've decided I'd like to try to build it as the retro/nostalgic Altered.

No Revell 1st Gen Camaro would even be in the same league with the AMT '57 Chevy, '32 Ford, and so forth.

New May Display! Calendar Mustang is a '67 convertible in pale blue, blue interior, big modern wheels/tires. Diecast is a dark teal (maybe even green) '64-'65 convertible with stock wheel covers. So I made make, model, and body style, but not year or color. Calendar Corvette is a red '64 Roadster with '67 stinger hood and big modern wheels/tires. Diecast is a red '67 roadster with stinger hood and factory (non-knockoff) alloy wheels (ish), so I matched make, model, body style, and color, but not year (except for hood). Not my closest match month, but not horrible.

Yawn!

Interesting! Thanks for the heads-up. If that wasn't in the magazine, it certainly could have been. There were a lot of things in that vein in there in the early '60s.

Sweet! I always liked those things. I'm beginning to wish I'd bought the cheap M2 one at Walmart last month. Oh well, I'm sure I'll run across another one sooner or later.

Looking good, VERY clean work! You are going to replace the missing door/window frame work, aren't you?

You're good to go, then.

Making steady progress on the Riv. Got it up on wheels today, for the first time in more than 50 years. That gray primer that didn't come off in the Purple Pond is quite grainy/pebbly, so every square millimeter of the plastic has to be sanded. So far have the right side done. Didn't notice it when I was buying the body, but the top was VERY scratched and gouged up. Looked like someone had tried to remove the paint with a hatchet, or a KA-BAR, or something of the sort. Entire top had to be block sanded to remove the kerf ick, and then all the gouges filled with 3M red glazing filler. It's almost done perfect here--a little left to do. Thinking of calling this project "Knife Fight," 'cause that's what the scars look like.

Buy the Testor/Model Master Chevy Engine Red, in either enamel or acrylic, and use it right out of the bottle. It is THE CORRECT color for a '67 396 engine (and all early Chevy big blocks, and some of the small blocks, too, such as the LT1). It just doesn't get any simpler (or more correct) than that. BTW, that's probably the color on the engine pictured above.

Yup, looks just like the Welly diecast--about 1/26 scale. It actually looks better on a 1/25 shelf than the Monogram 1/24. It can be greatly improved by sanding the tire treads, detailing the wheels with some black paint, and so forth. Cheap, easy, looks good--what's not to like?

I don't believe anyone mentioned that the Welly TA is 1/25 scale, not 1/24--the body has the same wheelbase and width as the AMT '70 Camaro! Happy happy joy joy!

Very clean build, well done!

I've never seen that before either, but it looks like an unassembled Welly diecast. It's pretty nice, and a tiny bit undersized at about 1/26 or so.

Happy Chevy/Ford Day is here again!

Mine didn't have anything on clearance. They didn't have ANY '67 Camaros, I don't recall seeing the other two but I wasn't looking specifically for them. Maybe I was just too late?

Very nice, very clean!

Chevy Engine Red, which is a bright red-orange. Chevy Engine Orange was an earlier, pure orange color used on small blocks. All big blocks up through at least some point in the '70s were Chevy Engine Red.

I'm not a tractor guy, but that's pretty cool!

McQueen says "We deal in lead, friend" in The Magnificent Seven. Right after Yul Brenner says "Solving your problems isn't our line."

It LOOKS like you had fun with it! And really, that's exactly what some of these old crock kits are for--pure fun! Well done and model on!

Haven't found a hood yet, still looking. If you can help, my email is SnakeACP45 at AOL dot com. Thanks!

Very cool idea! If I were doing it, I'd section (shorten) the body by about 1/4" or so ahead of the rear wheel openings, and another 1/4" or so behind them. Would make it more of a true sports car.

Works like a champ on most decals. And then coat them with Micro Superfilm. Another good place to do this is on the dashboard or package tray of your car, but make provision that they don't blow out or away.