peteski

And rubber gloves - Lye will "eat" skin.

John, what you're doing is not welcome on this forum. I smell a thread lock, or worse. And you only have been around for less than a month . . .

LOL Mike! In that case print out some pictures on your printer and snail-mail them to him. Or if he lives close enough, visit him and bring your models with you for that wonderful in-person 3D viewing.

I avoid primers as much as possible. Since I mostly use plastic compatible (stinky) hobby paints, those adhere well to bare plastic. I'm a firm believer that keeping the paint layer as thin as possible makes for better looking model. But from what I read on the forum, if you use water-based (low-odor) paints, those do not adhere well to bare plastic, so primer is recommended.

Yeah, as you get older memory is the second thing to go . . .

No comments? I thought that there were plenty of older guys on this forum. This would be a good car to model. Too bad the Pinto hatchback kits are so rare.

Oh yeah, those "mouse balls" are actually large steel balls with a thin rubbery coating. They can do some real damage when flung hard. My GF actually had one of those trackballs and for years preferred it over a mouse. I tried it, but never liked it. And trackballs stink for gaming.

Wow, you;'re gong way back! I don't think you can still find those mice anywhere. Yes, they were pain, but were the only thing available back in 1990s. Actually , back then I used to repair Sun Microsystems workstations and Sun had their own 3-button mice. Even back then they were optical (not ball), but they also required you to use dedicated mouse pad. It was made of aluminum and had a fine grid pattern printed on it (for the optical sensors). The mouse did not work without that special mouse pad. I use wired mice, but I do have one Bluetooth wireless mouse. The batteries last pretty long, and when they get low, the LED indicator starts blinking orange. It is very reliable, except when it sometimes "unpairs" from the laptop, and has to be paired again.

April is still few months away.

Guys, email was used for sending photos to someone long before Facebook came around. Email still works, and you can reach anybody with a valid email address.

"Future" is not a floor "wax" but a clear acrylic coating. They call it "finish". That is why you can use it as a clear coat on models. If it was wax, it wouldn't work as a clear coat. It is still being made, but its name changed multiple times over the years. It is now called "Pledge something something". I don't use it so I lost track of all the names. This (new) stuff is often mentioned in articles in FineScale Modeler Magazine. If you like they way it works you should be able to find it in stores. I used to refer people to a website called "Swannys Complete Future", but it seems to be gone. That site had a history of all the name changes.

If you visit Alclad's website, they use those to showcase some of their paints.

What is the temperature of the liquid? If it is very cold, the potency is reduced. All the strippers work better when they are warm. I don't mean hot - just 80-100 deg. F.

OMG Bill, that is one of the longest links I have ever seen, and it is full of all sorts of eBay tracking codes!! Where the heck did you copy that link from?!?! All you need to point someone to the eBy item is this short link (extracted from yours): https://www.ebay.com/itm/194489556766 Anything after that item number (starting with the first "?" is all the nefarious stuff eBay uses for all sorts of nasty tracking. They even show you that!.. If you look at that link, after the item #, it shows "?_trkparms= and bunch of code". No need give eBay all that tracking ability. Trim the URL!

There are probably sign shops in Hawaii. Find one and ask if they could sell you a sheet of polystyrene. Maybe there is even a plastics distributor, which would have a wider range of choices. But as I hear, if you live in paradise, you end up paying for it.

Alrighty then.

We had an official blizzard yesterday. Just think that in the Summer this stuff just drains away all by itself - no need to spend time or money on the cleanup. I much rather spend time in my workshop than snowblowing.

Huh? Me?! You must not have understood my post.

It is looking really good, and so do the lights (reflectors and lenses), but what is "Oracle tape"?

Looking really good! And every time I look at that gold paint it looks just as if those parts were made from real gold.

@El Roberto If you still can, I like to suggest changing the Subject of this thread to somethign like "How to neutralize static electricity before painting the model?", so when looking at the topics list in this forum it clearly indicate what it is about (as this is a very useful discussion). The "Strange dumb question" subject line is . . . well . . . dumb.

Can't you uninstall Firefox, then do an fresh install?

Interesting info Mike and Bill.

Sort of reminds me of the story that the first telephone was not invented by Bell, but by a Russian scientist. As it has been said, at that time there was a lot of experimentation being done by many crazy scientists, and documentation and patents were scarce. It is also not all that unreasonable that multiple inventors woudl have come up with similar ideas. But often a single one got to be famous.