peteski

In my post (which got deleted) I merely stated that what Pat perceived as a prototype photo (Pat was using as a prototype reference for his model) appeared to me as a photo of a model. I also listed the reasons I thought it was a model photo. Ken confirmed that it was a model photo. Not sure why Pat took that so personally. I did not berate his model in any way. I simply stated my opinion about a photo (which was not of Pat's model). I also do not represent or speak for this forum. I'm really confused now, especially that Pat cheerfully accepted Ken's confirmation that the photo Pat used for reference was a model (not a "period photo").

Exactly! Have you looked at the prices of everything (like groceries) lately?

Going by my experience with Micro-brushes, if you accidentally touch too close to the liquid CA (especially the extra thin stuff), it can wick into the brush and glue the bristles together. That's why I went the disposable brush route.

My favorite "kicker" is Bob Smith Industries (BSI) CA accelerator. It has almost no odor, and it doesn't instantly dissolve paint or plastic like some other brands. It also doesn't leave residue when it evaporates. As far as applicators go, I use Microbrushes. Never spray. I dab the surface close to the liquid CA -- the accelerator spreads out, and gets to the glue on its own. Those brushes are disposable, so if one gets clogged with hardened CA glue, I just trash it and use a fresh one. I used to use a tiny home-made squeeze bottle with a small gauge hypodermic needle tip, but it used to clog if I accidentally touched too close to the liquid CA, so I switched to Microbrushes. Since very little accelerator is needed to "kick" the CA, I usually use the small (white handle) ones.

Actually, Dave Ambrose is the "man behind the curtain" dealing with the technical stuff that runs the forum. But all the moderators are doing great (and thankless) job of policing the forum. I suspect there is not much control in the placement of the ads, and for some strange reason this forum seems to have lots more problems with the ads annoyingly taking over the entire screen than the other forums I frequent. I suspect that this has something to do with the forum software itself (the way the code is written). The other forums use different underlying software.

That looks like a photo of a model, not a period photo of the 1:1 item.

But isn't the paint over the primer acting as a barrier, so the stripping solution can't get straight to the primer?

I participate on a model RR forum and members there have been using 3D printers for several years. There is a 3D printing section chock full of useful info (like all the special tricks they use when printouts fail). I realize that that it is a model RR forum, but printing 3D parts is printing 3D parts, regardless of what type of a model they are for. I don't think you have to be a member to view that forum. All ya all will likely find threads there useful, and learn something there. https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?board=45.0

I assume that you lie it down on the bench? If yes, just put it on some piece of rubber. A properly positioned elastic works for me. I also assume that one of those rubber disks made for opening tight glass jar lids would also do the trick. A rubber glove would probably work too.

Huh? The one that shows up under the text in my post (Model Builders' Warehouse 3D Printed Borrani Wire Wheels). Click on it. If for some reason you don't see it in my earlier post, here is a "plain" link to that thread: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/150587-model-builders-warehouse-3d-printed-borrani-wire-wheels/

Could also be the bottle. I have some older clear plastic blister packs which yellowed badly over time. Should be easy to tell what yellowed. If it is the bottle itself, it will be yellow below and above the liquid level. If it is just the liquid, then the yellow tint will only be up to the fluid level. Bottle above the fluid should look clear.

Dan, your effort looks pretty good. You might also look at the following thread for some inspiration: I bought some of Randy's 3D printed wheels and they were exquisite. What is amazing about those 3D printed wheels is that the spokes are interlaced (front to back) just like the 1:1 wheels. This feature is not achievable in either photoetched or wire-laced wheels. But it is not as important in your motorcycle-type wheels where the spokes don't really cross front-to-back.

And rubber gloves - Lye will "eat" skin.

John, what you're doing is not welcome on this forum. I smell a thread lock, or worse. And you only have been around for less than a month . . .

LOL Mike! In that case print out some pictures on your printer and snail-mail them to him. Or if he lives close enough, visit him and bring your models with you for that wonderful in-person 3D viewing.

I avoid primers as much as possible. Since I mostly use plastic compatible (stinky) hobby paints, those adhere well to bare plastic. I'm a firm believer that keeping the paint layer as thin as possible makes for better looking model. But from what I read on the forum, if you use water-based (low-odor) paints, those do not adhere well to bare plastic, so primer is recommended.

Yeah, as you get older memory is the second thing to go . . .

No comments? I thought that there were plenty of older guys on this forum. This would be a good car to model. Too bad the Pinto hatchback kits are so rare.

Oh yeah, those "mouse balls" are actually large steel balls with a thin rubbery coating. They can do some real damage when flung hard. My GF actually had one of those trackballs and for years preferred it over a mouse. I tried it, but never liked it. And trackballs stink for gaming.

Wow, you;'re gong way back! I don't think you can still find those mice anywhere. Yes, they were pain, but were the only thing available back in 1990s. Actually , back then I used to repair Sun Microsystems workstations and Sun had their own 3-button mice. Even back then they were optical (not ball), but they also required you to use dedicated mouse pad. It was made of aluminum and had a fine grid pattern printed on it (for the optical sensors). The mouse did not work without that special mouse pad. I use wired mice, but I do have one Bluetooth wireless mouse. The batteries last pretty long, and when they get low, the LED indicator starts blinking orange. It is very reliable, except when it sometimes "unpairs" from the laptop, and has to be paired again.

April is still few months away.

Guys, email was used for sending photos to someone long before Facebook came around. Email still works, and you can reach anybody with a valid email address.

"Future" is not a floor "wax" but a clear acrylic coating. They call it "finish". That is why you can use it as a clear coat on models. If it was wax, it wouldn't work as a clear coat. It is still being made, but its name changed multiple times over the years. It is now called "Pledge something something". I don't use it so I lost track of all the names. This (new) stuff is often mentioned in articles in FineScale Modeler Magazine. If you like they way it works you should be able to find it in stores. I used to refer people to a website called "Swannys Complete Future", but it seems to be gone. That site had a history of all the name changes.

If you visit Alclad's website, they use those to showcase some of their paints.

What is the temperature of the liquid? If it is very cold, the potency is reduced. All the strippers work better when they are warm. I don't mean hot - just 80-100 deg. F.