peteski

I'm probably in the minority but I much prefer the Fiero's original nose. It fit the car better than the rounded nose.

I have not uses embossing powder but I suspect that the problem is that the glue you are using is too thick (viscous) and too dry for the embossing powder to adhere. At least failed attempts are easy to clean up (unlike stripping paint). Maybe try diluting the glue with some water to make it thinner, then sprinkle the powder over that. But do not make it too runny.

Hmm, I guess there are pin vises and there are pin vises. Most of the ones I own have exchangeable chucks (total of 4 size ranges), which gives the vise a capacity of 0 to 1/8" (so the PC Board drills can be chucked in mine. For many precision drilling small holes in plastic I often hold the 1/8" shaft of a PC board drill directly in my fingers. That gives me much better control of drilling. BTW, I realize that both vice and vise are correct words for describing that tool, but to me "vice" seems more awkward, as my brain associates it with its other meanings, while I believe "vise" only has one meaning. I also realize that in the original English (British) language, "vice" is generally used to describe that tool. Oh well, I speak American English. You have that index, but not this one?

Probably the same way the package routing between facilities is determined: often seems random and inefficient to an average human.

I guess I missed the fad. Might have been more popular in other parts of the country. No big loss. Only somewhat related things I've seen around here (Northeast USA) was some nicely restored milk trucks painted for some dairy companies, and then there was official Wienermobile.

Fad? I never knew that (or seen many such privately owned cars). When was that? I guess the big wheel statement is a general statement because this particular car seems to have more or less normal size wheels.

To me the bumper sure looks like a typical kit's "chrome" (not paint). Grill and headlight bezels are noticably duller looking,. Not that it's a bad thing. Many modelers are of the belief that scale model chrome should be duller looking than chromed pieces on 1:1 vehicles. A belief that I do not subscribe to. For me chrome is chrome. It doesn't scale - it is supposed to be mirror-like smooth and reflective, regardless if it's 1:1 or 1:43 scale.

What you have here are typical TC (Tungsten Carbide) PC-board drill bits with 1/8" shanks. These have also been mentioned in the other threads.

Sounds good.

I'm confused. You are creating memes? You mean on meme generators websites? Then copy/paste what? The image file (JPG, GIF, etc) containing the meme, or a URL link to the meme hosted elsewhere on the internet? Can you give some specific example?

It does look good - I like it!

Is this an official Coca-Cola Company vehicle, or some individual just painted their ElCamino that way?

While I don't have the list of ingredients for the original Westly's formula I believe it contained Lye and likely bleach. Both of those will strip "chrome" (actually thin layer of aluminum) from plastic model parts. Modelers still use those two chemicals (in various forms) for stripping "chrome". Obviously the "new and improved" (and likely more environmentally friendly) Whestly's cleaner likely contains alternative chemicals which are not caustic enough for stripping "chrome". This "new and improved" thing happens to other items we use in modeling and those new formulas do not work as well s the older ones. Even the no-fumes "new formula" Easy-Off in spray cans doesn't work for stripping paint like the original formula did.

Yes, all those are good options which have been mentioned in the original 2 threads.

If these paints are new now old stock and unopened, I would just try to wrap an elastic few times around the cap (or use a wide elastic, or even one of those rubber disks for opening stuck food jar lids) and see if that'll give you good enough grip to unscrew the cap. Like you, I don't think there is any paint hardened in the treads but the small caps are not easy to get a grip on.

Bill, PM me with your email address and I'll sent you a ready to print PDF with bunch of plates in 1:25 and 1:24 scale with plate outline and cropping marks. I can't attach PDF to the post. When printing it out select "no scaling" or "1:1" or "actual size" (whatever option your PDF reader has for printing that document in original size).

You're not the first or last member asking this question. Searching the forum brings good answers:

If you had a larger (higher resolution) photo Bill, it would be fairly easy to use for creating artwork for printing it out. eBay listings usually have higher resolution photos.

You have to make your own booth. It can be made from a large translucent storage container, rubber gloves, and an air filter. Here is one example: https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?topic=50417.msg821918#msg821918 Nowadays It might also be possible that someone makes and sells such item.

. . . also in the context of opening a hobby shop, or model train manufacturing company, or many other assorted businesses. Kind of like those ethnic jokes which we used to be able to tell before political correctness arrived: you could use the same joke for any ethnic group - just replace a Pole with an Italian or any other ethnicity.

Keith, I just want to mention that there is a thread with plethora of recommendations about getting your first airbrush and compressor. It is a but overwhelming, but that is what happens every time this type of question is asked in a forum with thousands of members. I had an older (and loud) compressor with a 4 gal., tank for some years but last year, on @Ace-Garageguy recommendation I bought at Harbor Freight a very quiet Fortress compressor with a 2 gal. tank. Now that's the one I use. https://www.harborfreight.com/2-gallon-135-psi-ultra-quiet-oil-free-hand-carry-jobsite-air-compressor-64596.html I bought it around last Christmas and it was on sale.

I'm for the lacquer thinner trick (which has been mentioned on the forum multiple times). Just be patient as the thinner has to soak into the decades-old enamel paint. I would let it work for at least half a day, periodically checking if it loosened up yet and reapplying the thinner if it evaporated. You can do this to bunch of the bottles at the same time. When trying to unscrew the lid first wrap an elastic around the lid. Best are small wide ones sometimes used to bunch some fresh veggies or ones to preventing live lobster's claws from opening. Regular elastic will work too, but wrap it around the lid few times. The rubber gives your fingers extra gripping power. Pliers or similar metal gripping tools should be used only as a last result (as they will likely damage/distort the lid which might make is no longer tight).

I think those used standard rubber O-rings for tires. With round cross-section and no tread or sidewall detail they aren't super realistic but I guess they might be acceptable.

Dave, in the photo the driver's side interior door panel looks like new. Did you replace it, or is it cleaned up original?

OK, so for you it's basically like starting fresh. It will take some practice to get comfortable using a (decent quality) airbrush, regardless if it's gravity or siphon-feed. or you might find out (like you did in your teens) that you just prefer spray cans.