Jantrix

Man, that is REAL nice. Very authentic. Well done.

I picked up this Fujimi garage kit. Ordered it from Japan (via ebay), transported on the slow boat, and it was delivered for a whopping $20 and change. I'm very pleased with the kit, it has much more than I need and the quality is excellent. I'm going to use it in my shadowbox diorama.

Mark first off, it's a great looking model. Second. Ease off a bit and come up with a plan for each model. This was a hard won realization for me about ten years ago. They can't all be super-detailed-scratchbuilt everything or else it would take forever to build each and every kit. And for me that was a huge source of stress. Finally I realized that I needed to make a plan for each kit. Make the plan acording to each kit's strengths or the availability of aftermarket parts. AND THEN STICK TO IT. This sounds like your issue. You are looking at this thinking what else you could do/could have done. Stick to the plan. For every detailed, modded, scratchbuilt model on my bench, I have three kit's that will be built very simply. That will ensure models are being completed, while work continues on the big project. Without the stress. I'll step off my soap box and answer your question now. The body is painted and assembled. Scratchbuilding a chassis requires an incredible amount of test fitting. Not a good idea in my opinion, on an already painted and built body. Always best to do this before you paint the body. The Nova's kit chassis is pretty good. Nothing to be ashamed of. Stick to your plan.

Rooster - Alice in chains I'm a walking nightmare, an arsenal of doomI kill conversation as I walk into the roomI'm a three line whipI'm the sort of thing they banI'm a walking disaster

I dig it.

They look great. Add a '53 Stude Commander in the mix and you'll really see some design differences.

I don't mean to be a jerk here, but you did call this a TRoG style build. I've looked at a lot of TRoG photos researching my own builds, and I don't recall seeing one in modern flakes or pearls. You might consider rethinking your paint choice if you want to do something traditional.

Got some new parts. I've been looking forward to this for a real long time. These pieces look terrific. Can't wait to get started.

Check it out. I've found it in two kits bought a thousand miles apart.

I have this edition. It is a favorite. Anyone else have this version and have the one carb where the jets are skewed by 40 degrees or so? I'm assuming they fixed it in future versions?

Another option is to contact a local chapter of IPMS and donate your kits to the club. You are less than 4 hours from St. Louis and Memphis. Between those locations there are 5 Chapters. I'm sure someone from those clubs would be happy to pick them up. Clubs use donated kits in raffles and the like to raise money for the club which is then spent on shows and contests. This way, your family isn't burdened with "disposal" and you have the knowledge that your collection will be in the hands of adult modelers who will appreciate them and build them. That's my plan when I go. https://calendar.ipmsusa3.org/chapter-map

That is some top shelf work right there. Very well done.

With all those edges and weird body lines and angles, if you wet sanded and polished that without burning through the paint, you are the polishing champ of the world. Very impressive.

Please don't hate me for this. Back before I knew their value, before the internet, I build three Johans kits that I wasn't interested in and gave them to my sons as toy push cars. They loved them. I'm not gonna say which ones because you guys would certainly put out a contract for my assassination.

Bother me? No. It would make me flippin' furious.

I gotta agree Casey. I started one and as a whole, the car just doesn't do much for me. So I'm really leaning towards parting it out.

I quite agree.

That is the real trick. I have seen collections for sale on Craigs List. Usually, the ads are accompanied with the words, "I know what these are worth, don't low ball me", and no one bothers to inquire. That sort of thing might work for a classic car in 1:1 scale but not what we're talking about. You can try Craigs List but come up with a minimum price you will accept and post that plus twenty percent, because they will try to chew you down anyway. See how it goes. Also most towns have a Facebook classified page that someone has started. Find the one for your town.

I may get run out of town for this but my advice is to sell ALL the diecasts. At some point, (and I think you are there) you're gona have to ask youreslf these questions. 1. Am I a modeler or a collector? Because all evidence says that you don't have the space to be both. 2. Can I display all the diecasts I have and still have room for models that I BUILT MYSELF? 3. If I can't display it, and it's not worth much, why have it? Because I want it, really isn't a good reason and speaks of obsessive compulsive disorder. Lastly, if you cannot help compulsive buying more once you have sold them, then yes, you do need to seek help for this condition. Either that or have someone stronger than you hold the wallet when you go into a store.

Agreed. The trim on the body is also not close to the original. The molds have certainly suffered over time.

I'm wordering why every part, inside and out is painted and being weathered exactly the same? Nothing that rusts or otherwise oxidizes does so in the exact same way or in the exact same color of rust. Interior door panels are usually not the same color as the exterior and don't rust. There really is more to weathering than paint and salt.

Very clean work. I approve.

This is the oldest I have. I'd just discovered SAE and saw what adults were doing and tried my best to get it there. I was 17 I believe.

Very impressive.