Bills72sj

I too am a fan of BSI CA glue. I use the 5-15 second gel with out an accelerator. It give you time to position parts and has a very good bond. It is very useful for attaching sprue stems to parts to allow holding them with alligator clips for painting. Once the paint cures, the stems can simply be snapped off.

All are very nice subjects. If they were mass produced kits I would gladly add them to my stash. As resin items the cost will likely keep out. Besides, I have too much to build now.

No, no paper. At 1st I was going to use BMF with 3/32" tape for the lines/curves. Then I switched to strips of Parafilm because it seals just as well without leaving residue. It is also more flexible and durable.

Well my ambitious paint scheme has been quite the challenge to mask. So much so, it has put me in a funk for a couple of weeks. I started with the hood and then the cab and then the sleeper. When I got to the box, I could tell the sleeper curves and spacing were all wrong. So... all of masking of the sleeper got undone. Since the stripes at the rear of the cab were approximately the same width, I figured I would try attempting uniform spacing at the front of the box. After carefully measuring and making said spacing I roughed in the curved line masks on the box to discover that was not going to work either. So, I just went for "Magic Eyeball" and just laid them and relaid them until they looked right. Once I get the both sides of the box figured out, I will just remask the sleeper by connecting the dots (or lines as it were). Then it will be paint white to seal the masks, paint the blue, remask and paint the red then remask and paint the silver. This all assumes of course my rookie painting skills succeeds without flaws. Wish me luck.

I have been following. The end result is most impressive all around.

I am a fan of both. Cragars look good on Chevys and Klassics look good on Pontiacs. (Your opinions may vary) Here are some pics of a few that have been in my life both 1:1 and scale.

Thank you Sam. I have been slowly working on masking the paint scheme. Been distracted lately ordering parts to tie in a portable generator to my house. Just finished that project yesterday. Here is a paint scheme drawing.

Always loved this body style. Nice unique build.

Not a fan of wheels with no dish. I am ok with creative license in changing the tail lights. But 69 Camaro tail lights on a Ford? Really? 71 Torino tail lights would have been much more appropriate.

I did two with Wet Look Clear. Paint, BMF, Sharpie highlights for side marker lights, decals then mist coat of clear then wet coat clear. No polish. Add windows, bumpers and chassis.

When I got to the pic with the hood scoop... WOAH!! That blew me away!

Your rig is coming along nicely.

I am a big fan of the 66 2+2 too. I was showing my GP and was parked next to a Brandywine colored one at an all Pontiac show decades ago. I loved the lines of the car. Regarding the 65 GP and 2+2 kits, I want to have the front end of the 2+2 but the tail end of the GP. Where would be the best place to make the cuts to marry the creation I envision?

Very nice. Did you add the vinyl top?

I like it. Very nice.

That is SWEEEET!!!!!! Yes pictures outdoors would be nice. I do not think we are getting to see it in all of its glory.

Thank you for sharing your builds with us. You are an artist.

Way Cool!

If you have not secured the tool cabinets in place yet, may I suggest that you add some toe-kick spacers. Those cabinet doors in real life would be sweeping the floors.

Steve, I am very glad you and Ed are connecting. Ed makes nice parts. I got to build my 68 Chevelle years ago before Revell came out with theirs.

I just checked too. None listed.

Nice job on mounting the front and back of the cab.

Well done and nice color.

I use a number of adhesives but I kind of prefer red tube Testors. The bond is strong and not brittle like CA. My method is to put a piece of 2" wide masking tape on the desk to my right (as though it would be used for mixing 2 part epoxy). I put 1/4 to 5/16 dollop of Testors on it. I use a round wooden toothpick to dip in it and apply to one half of the parts to be joined. You will have much better control of the application over squeezing it from the tube to the part(s). Press the pieces together and align them perfectly. I may then clamp them if needed. Let cure for 24 hours. 5-15 second CA gel works as well but can unbond with enough leverage on long parts. It also like to fog chrome, clear and glossy parts. Plastruct liquid works well for large surfaces with tight gaps. However the solvent is potent enough to mess up smooth surfaces if it exits the joint or is applied too heavily. I have left a few fingerprints in some parts due to that.

Loving it!