Bills72sj

I did two with Wet Look Clear. Paint, BMF, Sharpie highlights for side marker lights, decals then mist coat of clear then wet coat clear. No polish. Add windows, bumpers and chassis.

When I got to the pic with the hood scoop... WOAH!! That blew me away!

Your rig is coming along nicely.

I am a big fan of the 66 2+2 too. I was showing my GP and was parked next to a Brandywine colored one at an all Pontiac show decades ago. I loved the lines of the car. Regarding the 65 GP and 2+2 kits, I want to have the front end of the 2+2 but the tail end of the GP. Where would be the best place to make the cuts to marry the creation I envision?

Very nice. Did you add the vinyl top?

I like it. Very nice.

That is SWEEEET!!!!!! Yes pictures outdoors would be nice. I do not think we are getting to see it in all of its glory.

Thank you for sharing your builds with us. You are an artist.

Way Cool!

If you have not secured the tool cabinets in place yet, may I suggest that you add some toe-kick spacers. Those cabinet doors in real life would be sweeping the floors.

Steve, I am very glad you and Ed are connecting. Ed makes nice parts. I got to build my 68 Chevelle years ago before Revell came out with theirs.

I just checked too. None listed.

Nice job on mounting the front and back of the cab.

Well done and nice color.

I use a number of adhesives but I kind of prefer red tube Testors. The bond is strong and not brittle like CA. My method is to put a piece of 2" wide masking tape on the desk to my right (as though it would be used for mixing 2 part epoxy). I put 1/4 to 5/16 dollop of Testors on it. I use a round wooden toothpick to dip in it and apply to one half of the parts to be joined. You will have much better control of the application over squeezing it from the tube to the part(s). Press the pieces together and align them perfectly. I may then clamp them if needed. Let cure for 24 hours. 5-15 second CA gel works as well but can unbond with enough leverage on long parts. It also like to fog chrome, clear and glossy parts. Plastruct liquid works well for large surfaces with tight gaps. However the solvent is potent enough to mess up smooth surfaces if it exits the joint or is applied too heavily. I have left a few fingerprints in some parts due to that.

Loving it!

I am liking that option as well.

Following. I will be good to know the pitfalls of this kit.

Nice build you have there.

Yes food coloring and Pledge will tint windows. Keep in mind it will need to be very dark in your mixing cup prior to applying it to a test window. I tinted my 1/25 Hot wheels El Camino this way.

I know you are building a 68 and not a 69. Here is silver with black stripe body I did for a buddy that races slot cars.

I am liking what you are creating.

Obviously the plastic will be fine. The instructions should be the priority. Get them separated, open, flat and dried. Waxed paper should keep them from sticking if you choose to stack them to save on space. The decals will be a challenge to save. Get them fully dried then put each of them into a sandwich baggie and stuff them between the pages of a large heavy book. Later, when it is time to apply them, it will take much longer in warm soapy water to release from the backing, but patience will likely pay off. The boxes are probably mostly goners. Keeping them from warping may not likely be worth the effort. Save the box top artwork to at least keep it with the kit when it is reboxed. Keep circulating air around everything to help prevent mold growth. Hopefully his collection is a "I will build it" collection and not just an "Investment" collection because the water damage has killed each kit's value.

Excellent results! With that level of detail I would have flocked the floor.

I concur. Find a race car kit and bash away.