Kit Basher

This kit: I wasn't crazy about the salt spreader, so I put some "junk in the trunk". Here's the interior: And what it looks like without the plow.

Thanks Mike, I bet they were really front heavy with that plow on there. I'll ponder on how to add some ballast. I finally figured out Fotki, so I put up a thread in Under Glass.

I'm using this thread as a test to figure out how to work Fotki. I will post an "Under Glass" thread when I get it working.

Somebody mentioned that the sound system in the Tesla is playing a continuous loop of David Bowie's "Space Oddity"'. Of course, nobody can hear it. "Ground control to Major Tom....."

I'm a relative newbie at 2011, but I've enjoyed every minute of it and learned a lot. This is a great place.

Stumbled on these the other day, I've never bought or used any. Kinda pricey, and maybe a chore to assemble, but maybe it will work for you. https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xphoto+etch+tie+down+straps.TRS0&_nkw=photo+etch+tie+down+straps&_sacat=0&_oac=1

I also use sandpaper and glass for sharpening. I use a spray craft adhesive. Be sure to get the "removable" or "temporary" kind. I use 3/8" plate glass, but laminated or tempered would be safer. For your purpose, 1/4" would probably be fine. Laminated is usually cheaper, and tempered has a longer lead time, as it must be cut and then tempered. Either way, get ground or polished edges for safety. Corian should be available from custom countertop makers. The sink cut-outs are basically scrap. The 3/4" thickness would be preferable, as the 1/2" sometimes warps. The 1/2" would be OK, if you can get a flat piece, and store it flat, it will probably stay flat. It can be cut and shaped with regular woodworking tools.

Use it as an excuse to track down your old friend. Find him and tell him the story. Should make for an interesting conversation.

I don't know why my experience is different than some others, but I have never had a problem brushing enamels straight from the bottle. They do take some time to dry, a half hour or more, but they always dry completely. As they begin to thicken up with age, a little enamel thinner will bring them back. The most important thing is to make sure you stir them thoroughly every time before using. Both Tamiya and Testors acrylics also work well. Some colors may not cover as well as enamels. I suggest you experiment with different paints as you go along. I use both enamels and acrylics.

That looks great! I bought the resin kit to build the truck in my avatar. The resin kit looks very nice. Thanks for creating this cab, I've been wanting to build this truck for a long time.

Here's a link to my build of the Opel, including Harry's comments. http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/92241-opel-gt/ Unfortunately, all the photos are gone (Thanks, PB) Harry's suggestions are how to fix the tail lights, which are a mess if you compare them to a 1:1. HTH.

The Revell GTS is a pretty nice kit, except I could not get a good fit between the hood and the front fascia. The upside is that kit is plentiful and usually cheap. I bought three at Ollies for $8 a pop. If you want a roadster, the Revell SRT 10 went together nicely.

If your tools are not too dull, 400 and 1000 grit should work. 1000 is a little coarse for final honing of knives, but it should be OK for sprue cutters. You don't need them to be scalpel sharp. Keep in mind that if you take much off of the cutting edges, they may no longer meet. You may have to file the stop between the handles to get them closer together.

If you right click on the back arrow, you will see that a bunch of pages have loaded. You can go down that list and click on the page you want to go back to. Might be easier than closing and starting over.

http://www.micronmeters.com/c-46-insulated-wire.aspx

I am so excited! As you can see from my avatar, I have wanted to build one of these for years. We own a '71, and I've been thinking about building a cab. I took a bunch of pictures and measurements, but you've done a much better job than I could do. I wish I had seen this thread when you started, I could have provided any reference pictures you needed. I hope this does get cast, I will certainly buy one. The Scout engine looks good, I hope it is the right size for the cab. Thanks for doing this!

Medium CA works well. Instant bond, and pretty strong. Usually if a joint fails, it's the balsa, not the glue. For extra strength, I would use yellow carpenter's glue, like Titebond. Probably stronger than epoxy for wood, and no mixing necessary. Some clamping might be required, but that's true for the epoxy as well. If it needs to be really strong, some joinery is in order.

Fantastic, Cato! Your unwillingness to settle for anything less than your very best is an inspiration to us all. It has been a joy to watch you create this masterpiece. Thanks for sharing.

I did not crash at Indy, Hugh

I can't say about Tamiya, but it makes a big difference with Testors. Here is the same paint over six different primers.

Thanks for the replies, guys. I bought the Hasegawa kit. Now I just need to get around to building it!

Really nice, John, except you need more kits!

Thanks, Mark!

I have been slowly pecking away at this thing. The chassis is done, and most of the cleanup for the bed, salt spreader, cab and interior. The next step is installing the opening doors, a first for me. We'll see if they end up glued shut. The tires are hollow and really thin, so I put a piece of foam pipe insulation inside each tire. Here is the rolling chassis.

WARNING! Casting can be addictive. Those look great, have fun!