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bisc63

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Everything posted by bisc63

  1. C'mon, man... 16 hi-res photos. ATOMIC thread-bomb!
  2. Exactly! A scrap of photo-etch metal or flashing works well, and resists the sandpaper/file.
  3. Cheat: buy some Evergreen hexagonal styrene rod in .020 and .030, cut into small pieces, glue in place, file down to realistic thickness for nice bolt heads. The ones made by the punch set above are mostly over-sized for typical 1/25 automotive usage, but still usable in places; the smallest one shows .8mm, which scales up to 3/4" - 7/8" ballpark. Most visible fasteners are in the 1/2" - 9/16" range. Just something to chew on...
  4. Some of your pics seem to indicate you could gain a scale inch or so of clearance by warming the styrene and massaging the fenders outward just a bit. I'm not saying OVER stretch them, just that they look to be slightly bending inward through the wheel opening, and you could maybe get them back to stock position. Anyone else see it?
  5. I never noticed until your pic above, but that trans cross-member is bogus. The "groove" running the length of it needs to be puttied in to create a nearly smooth profile. Real ones begin life as round steel tubing that is pressed into shape, leaving an oval cross section.
  6. Did you by chance use automotive urethane clear coat? Most have very specific re-coat timing; either right away, or wait 24 hours minimum. I learned that one the hard way when I rushed a small touch-up I had to do on a full size truck I was painting, and ended up causing myself an even larger problem. Hang in there!
  7. I wish he'd sell just that nose piece. Headlights should be fairly simple; I believe the LS used (at least one year) a single large composite lens as opposed to the double sealed beam rectangles. Grill will be a bit trickier. I started scratch-building one a couple years ago, wasn't satisfied, tried again, got closer, put it aside, and so on. Still haven't got one good enough to show, but technology may have caught up to solve the problem as this would be an ideal project for 3D printing! Get yours right, and I know where you can sell a copy or two...?
  8. This will be fun to watch; I like how you're approaching the details!
  9. Nice!
  10. Loving this, reminds me of a Dave Deal design.
  11. THAT is BEAUTIFUL! Reminds me of the intricate 1/72 cut-away scratch-builds by a guy named Dan Jayne; just phenomenal craftsmanship in the details.
  12. You have really worked out a lot of kinks in this project, and the work is worth it; she looks NICE!
  13. Why is the other side of the pond so weird? ( says everyone on all sides ?)
  14. My first thought as well...
  15. Love me a flamin" chicken graphic, or if you prefer, the fowl induction hood!
  16. I'd bet someone torched that spring to lower the rear end. Old, crude, and unpredictable way to drop a coil spring. Too much heat on one side let it skew off like that, but hard to see under compression.
  17. Liking what you're doing a lot! The Chevy headlights are a nice, subtle touch; can't wait to see more!
  18. Can one purchase resin copies of these?
  19. Gold flake with candy root-beer fades. Groooovvvy! I really would like to see the custom grill work molded into the stock fenders, that front fender bulge just makes the car look like an oversized Corvair to me. Carry on...
  20. Off to a good start!
  21. That's a beautiful turquoise color; this is gonna look so BAD! Will it be stock or a street machine kinda thang?
  22. I'd add a bottle of flat black to the collection, so you could mix between them all to achieve unlimited levels of sheen.
  23. This was the heyday of body cladding; maybe you could adapt some ground effects from a Grand Prix or turbo T-bird to fit the era?! Likin' what you're doing.
  24. That color is awesome, and the model as a whole is really sharp! Nicely done!
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