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And be quick about the clean up because it can get sticky quickly.

Looks like you got your bridge all rebuilt. I remember when you were posting some of the pictures when you were working on this.

Amazing how the setting sun can light any clouds at sunset.

Great view. Are you in a mountains area ?

I like your color choice, this was a common color for that era and still looks great. You got the right stance also, and as others have mentioned the engine details look great.

Tuff looking little Comet. I like the stance and the paint looks great.

I like the concept.

Nice job on the window trim paint. You might consider cutting the window part into smaller pieces making it easier to install. Your paint finish is more true to the 1:1 than the super gloss finishes.

I have been checking in from time to time and like how this is build is going. Seeing how this is going I'm starting to think about trying to rebuild one of my old builds of this model in the hardtop version. Remarkable how sharp the body trim details are after all these years.

Great body work. Amazing how well the Camaro lines blend into the Nova.

Great looking rescue. Your color choice shows the body lines well and your vinyl roof looks good also. Are you able to get the bucket seat interior ?

As many others have mentioned, the color is outstanding. Good looking engine and well detailed. To me the Valve Covers especially look good. The 1:1 Fords had, on some hi-performance engines, these tall Valve Covers that were kind of flat on the top. I think they even used offered them in a cast aluminum also. They really dress up the engine on big block Ford's.

While being simplified and some inaccuracies this is still a favorite kit to many including myself. Are you going to use the W Block engine or the small block ?

This should be interesting. Painting over colored plastic is always a pain. You should be hearing soon from others and their experiences with what you're doing here.

I have used "wire nails" to replace the axels. You can get a small plastic 1 oz. container at any home building supply store and they have any number of sizes. They don't have to go all the way through the differential housing to work. Most are 3/4" long but they do offer other sizes if needed.

Great craftsmanship on this body. Sort of what they call a "Life style " car. I like the removable roof and the inside if the bed is great looking.

Great looking build. The wheels make it look like the more current era. I would like to know how you mounted your Sun Visor. I just put done the first color coat on an Aerosedan that I'm building and would like to use the Visor but there isn't any type of mounting point on the body and it even seems to narrow and sits on the windshield moldings.

Please reed the post from Pete J. and be aware that some plastic containers may not be up to the task. As I mentioned to him the container I'm using is by a company named Tucker but there is no information on it's chemical makeup. I got this container from a Payless Store from the price sticker still on it, paid a whapping $1.24 so it can't be anything to special. I think Payless is long gone along with the shoe store of the same name. Just thought I would try and give you a heads up on this. The only other thing I can suggest is to find a container that is very stiff as that's what this one is like and hopefully the chemical makeup can resist the PP.

That had to wreck your day. That said you do make a very good point about how the PP works with some plastic products. Your post made me double check what it is I'm using. The container is from a company named Tucker and their label says it's a "see-through stackable storage box" size is 13"x7 3/4"x 4". They don't list any chemical makeup of the container so I really don't know about that. I have had this for several years and while it's not used all the time it has had bodies sit in there for up to 48 hours or more on one real hard to remove paint job.

You having to move may have been a blessing after all. Good luck to you, your new place looks very nice.

Great looking build. The first one of these I built happened to be in the same color. I like how you used the different shades of black for the chassis and engine colors all look correct also.

Look'n good. I like how you have all of the body lines lined up together.

Very nice conversion and the paint looks great. I have only seen a couple of 500 in the wild and worked with a guy who had one years ago. They were all painted bright Red.

That's the one I use. As an example. I bought an inexpensive oblong plastic container with lid at Wal Mart. Think Tuperware type stuff. I also got a smaller container for doing very small parts. I then submerge what ever I'm striping in the Purple Power in the container. Snap on the lid and check on it the next day. I mentioned the chemical reaction to your skin, and that's why I suggested the rubber gloves. I get a box of them at Harbor Freight , 5 mil. Nitrile 100 count for less than $10. You my not need the gloves if you can get the parts out of the PP without touching them and run them under the tap and rinse them. I reuse the PP by pouring it back into it's container using a small strainer to catch most of the old paint in it. Sometimes paint will still be in the door jams and body lines. I just put it back in for additional soak time and that will usually get it cleaned up. Hope this helps.

When all else fails, use Purple Power. You might want to use rubber gloves if you're fishing bodies and parts out of the soup. This stuff can do a number on your skin with any prolonged exposure.