espo

Major surgery on the top, but done like the pro's. Great job on the headlights. Always more rewarding when you do it yourself. I personally would take the easy way out and start with the Revell Mercury just because I'm not comfortable with this major body work.

Looks like it spent some time at the bottom of a lake. I mean that in a good way. I like the "wick" style fuel cap. The body and chassis is about as crusty as I have seen. The seat is really well done also. Looks like a carb rebuild and a tune up and new battery and it's good to go.

Great looking chassis and engine.

I built one Box Stock when it first came out. I really need to do another but there are so many other kits I want to build also. I thought it went together well and was a nicely detailed kit to start with. The motor mounts are a little frustrating since each mount is two pieces and I would suggest "pinning" them for strength and ease of mounting. The trunk area over the differential where the upper shocks mount are a visual issue. On the underside of the chassis and body are fine, but if you don't want them to show on the inside of the trunk floor I'd suggest shortening the top shock mounting pin so it doesn't show in the trunk. There are plenty of on line photos of the real car if you question something on appearance. The hard part is finding one that hasn't been modified in some way. I look forward to seeing your build on this kit.

Great looking Flames. I like how you set this up with the Black color going on last.

I agree with Modlbldr on your trim work, very well done. I have a question on your basic kit. This looks like the older AMT Mercury kit with an excellent chop on the roof ? The Headlights on the 1:1 look like an early '50's Buick design or something the builder fab'd up.

Your paint work looks very smooth. That color is perfect Pontiac.

In a manor they are. As you know the Camaro is and has always been a unibody design. This looks like the entire drivetrain and suspension is set up on a jig of sorts and the body is lowered onto the front subframe and the rear suspension. They just bolt the undercarriage to the body, connect a few wires and fluid lines and the next stop may have been the front sheet metal.

The few shows I have entered the judging is done after they have closed the doors and all of the models have been entered and everyone has gone home for the day. The Judges will spend the evening and sometimes almost over night doing their judging and it is later in the afternoon of the following day before the winners are announced. A good idea if you have done a lot of extra detailing or body and chassis work is to supply a small short list of anything you have done. This gives visitors a chance to better understand the model they're looking at, and the Judges have to look at so many entries that you have to think they all start to look alike after a while. I have had the privilege of viewing many outstanding models and seeing just how cleanly some of these models are done, and this just makes me want to try a little harder to emulate the builds I have seen others do.

I went by a couple of the HL stores in the area today. Many openings on the model shelves. I'm sure it will take a while before their suppliers get anything new to them. The good news is they're back open.

I have bought several kits that I have absolutely no interest in but had a set of wheels and tires or suspension parts I did want. I usually cruise the clearance Isles looking for what ever is on clearance.

Many very good suggestions. Another idea would be to check the Resin/After Market Parts section on the Forum. Many good suppliers can be found there. The model I'm working on now I'm using materials from Mad Modeling (www. madmodeling.com) . They offer 3ft. of Fuel Line in Aluminum, Red, Blue, or Purple.

Such a sad looking little car. But that is what you were going for. Great ageing on the body and paint.

Great clean looking builds. I'm partial to the '55 Chevy, but they are all very nicely done.

Nice looking paint work. I like your color ideas for the interior also.

Great looking interior.

Great looking dash. I like how you detailed the seats. As I recall the duller part was sort of a weaved vinyl and would have less of a sheen than the solid portions.

A lot of custom body work on this little pickup, all done very smoothly.

Very nice style and as Alan pointed out, the top chop is really well done and completely in proportion with the rest of the body. I like the truck grill you used. Cleanly detailed engine also.

Great looking build. The paint still looks new and very shinny. I like the chopped top option on this kit.

Do you have any video from the boat drags at Ming Lake ? That might be a little more interesting.

Great looking Ford. I always liked this roof and body style. Beautiful looking paint and the vinyl roof looks good on this.

beautifully built. The color and paint are great and I like all the engine detailing also. I remember when they were building the 1:1 and I always thought it was a well laid out little car.

I remember having oil leaks from the push rod tubes. Found out later that the head bolts were working their way out of the engine case just enough that the tubes wouldn't seal. As I recall the case was trying to also part company with one another. I later just had a pro VW/Porsche only shop build an engine for my Baja Bug. That thing was a kick in the head after that.

A theory and only that. As a vehicle accelerates the fluids tend to stay put for a moment as the vehicle moves forward. The fluids will gather toward the rear of what ever part of the vehicle contains them. Crankcase oil will collect toward the rear of the engine giving a rear sump pickup an advantage of always having oil to pump thru the engine. A majority of drag cars have a rear mounted fuel tank today and looking at these tanks you will notice the rear of the tank usually has a slight modification with a low spot and inside the tank the fuel pickup is located in this area for the same reason fuel will be their to pump to the engine. A front mounted tank like the picture may offer a similar advantage since the fuel would tend to collect in the rear of the tank and in turn would have a shorter distance to travel to the engine and the force of the acceleration may even help with the transfer of fuel to the engine. This type of fuel tank in these classes of drag racing would generally hold little more than 5 gal. A theory, but also a possibility. This particular tank and it's being mounted in this manor may be just a prop to give an appearance. The size and general shape of the tank resembles fuel tanks I have seen used in drag boats. They would be mounted length wise and sometimes there would be one on each side of the boat.