Fat Brian

Any of the 1/25 AMT trailers should work. For that truck I would probably go with either the flatbed or lowboy, something that works hard in rough conditions. Maybe it's the equipment hauler for a construction company and gets neglected because it only gets driven a few times a year when they're moving equipment from one site to the next or hauls materials to job sites that are off the road a bit.

Yeah, for someone really dedicated to 1/25 scale it can be done. The hole in the hood needs to be dealt with and you won't have a stock front bumper but the Smittybilt bumper in the kit was a popular mod.

The interior is pretty good, it just has aftermarket bucket seats and a steering wheel. It's just hard to justify that much work when the Revell kit is so good.

Yeah, this is a win for me. It pays homage to the chassis design but modernized it in a clean way. Now, it's probably uncontrollable insanity to drive due to being only RWD but that's never going to be a me problem.

There is something in the pens that is part of the chrome reaction that evaporates out and ruins them. Both pens I bought were useless in a couple months but the refill is still as good as day one after two years. I just put a drop or two in a water bottle lid and apply it with a brush or toothpick.

I love Mr Super Clear both gloss and flat, it's great. The only thing is that it's expensive.

It's probably the alcohol in the Molotow causing the paint to soften.

I got the Cherokee he has up, it's not as nice as the wheels he does. The body is still pretty rough and the detail is a bit soft and will probably get buried under the amount of primer it's going to take to smooth it out.

I would use Evergreen plastic strips. 1mm or 1.5mm wide and .2mm or so thick looks close. Sand the point at the front into it then glue it down with something like Tamiya thin or Bondene. For the silver part I would glue a round rod about .3mm around the edge of the flat strip. This should get you in the ballpark at least, if you have actual measurements for the trim you could get it closer.

Check this out, these are "museum scale" Mechs that are meant for display. They're supposed to be around 6 inches tall. I'm going to pick up a couple myself. https://ironwindmetals.com/index.php/component/hikashop/product/battletech-dl-679

Just order them straight from Shapeways and they will print them and get them out to you in a couple weeks. Get the highest quality print available, it's worth the extra buck or two.

I can vouch for Rico's stuff, everything I've gotten from him has been high quality.

You can also respray it on a day with lower humidity, the new coat covers over the flat areas. It can also help to bring it back in the ac after spraying it. Here's the Thunderbolt I built a few months back using the same clear, I didn't think I'd ever finish foiling this thing.

That's called blushing and is a response to humidity. In most cases you can polish it and remove that thin layer and get to the good shiny underneath.

The acrylic lacquer with the green circle on the can.

I agree with this also, I've had to strip two bodies after using this clear caused removed emblems to ghost through the paint.

I've been using the acrylic lacquer and found that it's very susceptible to humidity, it dries much rougher now than it did in the winter and spring. I've also noticed that it can cause the color coats to pull back from the edges of panel lines. This hood shows how it thinned at the edge, it wasn't like this before the clear. This is Duplicolor red over Duplicolor white primer.

The trailer doesn't have to be a reefer to haul beer, a lot of shipments we used to get at the grocery store came in normal non-refrigerated trailers.

That's the 1/24 kit, this is what I thought the other kit was based on.

Huh, it seemed like another instance of them putting the wrong scale on the box.

Salvinos plating is noticeably different than the other manufacturers but I don't know what causes the difference, whether it's process or materials or both. It doesn't seem to be magnetic though, at least in my kits.

The Revell kit is just the 1/24 Monogram kit, it's not bad though.

Both styles of Rockwell are correct, they make both traditional ring and pinion and top loader axles. The ring and pinion style is usually called by the designation F106. The axles BNL sells are recasts of the MPC monster truck axles.

You have to weigh the potential return versus the potential hassle. Personally, if I am ever in a situation where I need to sell all my stuff my plan is to put my rare/old/valuable stuff on ebay to maximize my returns on that stuff. That's maybe 15-20% of my stuff max. The rest will be sold in a lot or lots and I'll probably take a bath on it but if I'm selling out the situation is pretty dire and I need cash in hand.

Absolutely.