gtx6970

Thanks,,,, I did paint several spoons this morning. I have maybe 5 or 6 different spray outs . Gonna pick up some Tamiya pure white tomorrow and see how it compares to my samples so far. . So far the winner is a Duplicolor with a Testors White lightening top coat. But I used the Tamiya as a base color on another build and I really like that look

I like it. They make a nice looking shelf piece. I think i've got one around here somewhere I've always though these cars looked like an oversize Comet

Some fine looking replicas here . If I had the room I would be looking for a bunch of these While the subject is hot. I see there was a 1958 chrysler 300 hardtop produced. Anyone know if a 1958 Chrysler 300 convertible was made...i have the 57s convertibles..but would like a 1958

I would rather a conversion of the whole kit to a 1958 ,,,but that's just me ...... The Ranchero ,,of any year does nuttin for me .Although I could see it happening pretty easily with the wagon a basis

I never thought about a nail polish. I guess I'll have to stop by Walgreens later today while I'm out

I use the spray on detailer , over decals and all . Never had a problem . Like said AFTER the paint has had time to really cure. It may be weeks or months before I do it. But I'm not opposed to taking them out once in a while to dust them and respray the wax either. Ps, I've used the paste wax type before but IMO its hard to clean up on a model.

The days they'll consistently pull over $100 is over. A kit will most every time. But the dealer promos rarely do 1968 Fury search of sold cars http://www.ebay.com/sch/Models-Kits-/1188/i.html?LH_Complete=1&_udlo=&_udhi=&_ftrt=901&_ftrv=1&_sabdlo=&_sabdhi=&_samilow=&_samihi=&_sadis=15&_stpos=41005&_sop=12&_dmd=1&_nkw=1968+Plymouth+fury&_pgn=2&_skc=50&rt=nc 1967 Plymouth Fury , again sold cars http://www.ebay.com/sch/Models-Kits-/1188/i.html?LH_Sold=1&_udlo=&_udhi=&_samilow=&_samihi=&_sadis=15&_stpos=41005&_sop=12&_dmd=1&_ipg=50&LH_Complete=1&_nkw=1967+Plymouth+fury

There was a time a turbine car would bring that , even then it had to be dead mint perfect ,then only if its an original and with the original box , make sure the hood ornament is in place. The later issues had plastic pins ( looks like a nail head ) holding the chassis in . Originals were a metal straight slot screw . I have an original and I gave $85 for it, with the box and the original sales brochure . But I've had mine for close to 10 years ,,maybe more As far as the Plymouth, need more info. But Its probably a 1968 Fury , they are/were usually white . I cant say I've ever seen or heard of a trouble shooting version in green ? Might a sticker transplant from another car? maybe ?????? Either way its no longer a big money piece. Promo prices have taken a hit over the past few years.

Thanks for the build tips. I'm not after 1000% accuracy,,just a nice display model for my case. My daughter built a snap kit of the Batmobile so I want them in the same case,,,maybe just not side by side So far I think I have all the waves and sink marks fixed in the body . I put it in ( i hope ) its final coat of primer this morning. I'll let that set for a day or so then prep it for paint .. I did a lot of sanding on the back end of the body to get the rear bumper to fit as best I can. The front one actually fits pretty good out of the box,,,go figure. The top bubble will be ok I think. I haven't decided if I'll glue it on or leave it loose so it can be removed to see the interior better or not I was at my LHS yesterday and I think I now have some colors for the interior . So I'll do some color tests on spoons this weekend to ck colors . So hopefully I'll be painting the interior maybe the 1st of the week

Nice,,,,very nice. I want one

Thanks. Seems the more i sand on the body to straighten it out...I find more sink marks which means more filler mixed up.

Outstanding so far.

Thanks, I have about every one of the pics there. I 'think' I may have enough pictures and info to replicate this car. Problem is ,,most of them are black and white. SO it leaves some colors up to your imagination.

Guess I'm a sucker then... I collect vintage kits, all builders and in some case a few need parts. If not for these sellers I would be stuck with resin IF its even avail at all . Just recently picked up a really REALLY nice 1960 Oldsmobile kit. 99% complete and almost ready to rebuild. The steering wheel was MIA,,,as luck would have it I found one on Ebay for not much more than one avail thru Modelhaus. With Modelhaus closed for the time being for me it was a no brainer. Same seller was also parting out an original issue Johan 1960 Dodge, and I happen to need a rear bumper for mine,,,,, Got that to. So for me ( and I'm sure many others ) Glad to see them do it . Model kits are no different then there 1/1 scale counterpart. Some are more worth more in pieces than they are as a whole.

I've got a few is all.Bought them all new Both the Danbury and Franklin Mint 1957 Chrysler 300 convertibles The 1957 Dodge Sweptline pickup ( I think its Danbury Mint ? ) Franklin Mint 1970 Hemi Cuda convertible.

Been happening for some time. Are they getting rich? not likely. Especially selling pieces form modern kits. I know one of the sellers that parts out vintage kits and he says he does quite well at it

Not to mention the cars today are DESIGNED to crumple.....cars of the 50s were not. But to me the cars back then had style and personality. Plus you can tell each and every year apart from the previous and glowing years model . Not so easy today . There are a few people around my area who drive old cars all year round, such as a 1972 Cutlass convertible. 1972 Buick Skylark , there is even an early 50s Chevy truck. I see it pretty much every day ,, year round no matter the weather or road conditions. The old truck still looks pretty decent outside of faded paint.

Like this ?

Thats what I was thinking , a medium silver with a very light/thin topcoat. A lot of the early vinyls back then had a pearlessance to them . I keep thinking a metallizer color would/might/maybe work Then with maybe a pearl off white on the steering column ?, decisions, decisions, decisions . Who said model building was easy . But I really want to do this car just once,,,but right . at least as close to right as I can within reason .

I managed a little modeling time this morning. Once I primed the interior ,,i noticed the moldings in the door panels were almost non existent . So I dug out some .010 x .010 stryene strips and made my own . Once cleaned up and re-primed, they should be much easier to see and foil . Also mixed up some filler to fill all the little sink marks on the body,,,and there were a lot of them .

If its a big tank car, I have . not a common option on early vettes

MCW lists the Lincoln Futura color called silver mink ? Looked it and Ice blue pearl up on TCB Globals website. Silver mink might be ok for the seats, but definitely not for the exterior. Cant find any color chips for the Ice Blue . I've decided to just spray it Tamiya pure white with a testors white lightening over coat and call it good . The few color pics I can find of the car they ALL look white to me . The interior on the other hand,,,I'm not so sure about yet. My Plan is go out today and ck out the testors metallizer line.

I have 2 clean 1960 Lincoln convertibles, and 1 clean 59 convertible. and I don't have $150 in all 3 combined. One of my 60s could all most pass for mint in the box if you took it apart

No problems I like that idea,, the Johan pieces isn't looking to promising they are gonna work AND clear the front tires. I'll try this and see how it looks

I just use duplicolor Hemi orange. I actually use duplicolor for all my engine paints And mopar performace for the earlier Race hemi orange builds.( its lighter orange ) spray either one over a good primer and never had a problem in nearly 10 years