gtx6970

BTW, I have a couple Revell 67 fastback bodies enroute from member Muncie ( thanks Steve ) I already have a Revell 63 roadster kit here Once all is in hand, I'll do some measuring and see if the 2 bodies will mate up without much effort

Guys, This helps A LOT . I think doing it this way is about the only way to get it to look right. I'm not after 1000% dead nuts on. But as close as I can with a reasonable effort. still need to get to the file cabinet and see if I have a build article on either this or the Don Kirby car ( same basic car )

Fair enough. Ive not held the trumpeter kit in my hands but I have heard enough bad press on them Ive not looked for one either I got lucky about 2 years ago. Bought both a 59 and 60 Bonneville from same guy , gave $150 for both delivered. Although I look for convertibles. the 60 is pretty nice and is sitting in my case, not likely it will ever get rebuilt in my lifetime I had a pretty nice hardtop I sold last spring . it sat on my swap space table most of the morning at $100 before it sold for 75 I just got rid of a spare 60 convertible a few months ago or I would loan the hood to you

Nice job on the conversion on the Bonneville. But, I got to ask, why not just pick up an original AMT builder. There not to difficult to find . And can be had in the $60 range give or take a few bucks

I feel your pain. Im about the go thru the exact same scenario. moving 2000 miles form Ky to Arizona. Already started packing the more common unbuilt stuff in boxes. the builts will go in individual tuck boxes and will travel in the U haul. But I will be driving and they will be top stack only

I would stop by. But I would probably end up walking out with a few kits, BUT I really dont need to buy any more just to add to the pile. I've been concentrating on filling holes in my vintage kits want lists. And that alone keeps the toy fund active With us planning a move to Arizona this summer. All I will be doing is packing up more and more . So I should probably stay away from HL

Nice, Would love to know how you did the tail lights. many many years ago my very 1st car was a white 1966 Tempest. OHC 6 cyl auto. White with blue bench seat interior. I think someday I would like to make a replica of that car. I paid a whole $50 for it. put another $25 into it. sold it maybe 6 months later for $200. I took my drivers test in that car.

if its a factory color for the year. Pull it on auto color library. They can mix most any color , put it in a spray can. Or maybe talk to a good rep in an auto parts supplier local to you. I think most places now a days can put any paint in a spray can. either decant it and spray thru a air brush , or if sprayed lightly can be sprayed straight out of the can on a model

Agreed on all points Especially spraying metalizers at various distances to achieve different results. For auto trans , I like to spray them with dull aluminum then while still wet take the bristles of a dry brush then poke them to get a rougher finish. keep in mind, I don't do contest so 1000 % dead nuts accuracy ( especially on something I cant see when looking in my display case ) MY goal is reasonable accuracy within a reasonable effort

I seem to remember an article like that done for the Don Kirby car. ?????? Gonna dig thru the magazines maybe later tonight and see waht I come up with . Will that molded in purple snap kit work for the back half

I'll dig thru my magazine pile this weekend and see if I can find a build article on the car. All I can find online is pictures . Once I know wheelbase I'll know how much to stretch the body . Looks like the front of the blower is dead even with the base of where the windshield frame would have been. And to my eye the body appears to be stock from the base of the windshield to the back end of the body. I have a member offered to send me a couple 67 bodies to get the front clip from. Just need to come up with a body ( or 2 ) for the doors back If I can find where I saw the decals for it. I would like to do the Nicky car as well ( pretty much exact same car )

Yes, I would prefer to not have to make my own gills . Looking around ebay this morning I got to thinking the best route might be to combine 2 different year bodies. All I need is the body(s) and hood(s) And No I dont have the wheelbase in front of me right now, but can probably dig that up without to much effort ( I have a 4 drawer file cabinet full of vintage magazines I can sift thru if need be)

Next question. Anyone know of a reliable source for a body and hood ,. Fortunately that's all I need Or the best option to make my own. It has to be 1/25th scale . Im not a vette guy by any stretch. But Ive always thought this particular car was one of the best looking funnies of the period

The Marv Eldridge 1967 Corvette funnycar

Ok, Ive found the decals to do this car. But cant find a resin body so I am thinking make my own. Where is this car stretched. I cant tell if its in front of or behind the side gills, or both

If you can deal with the warp issue. I think ,,,Johan made a late 50s 4 door. Just don't remember the trim level it was . And finding one with NO warp is near impossible. Modelhaus stuff is popping up on ebay all the time. maybe keep an eye out there

I use the spoons to get ideas on colors all the time ( the hard white ones btw ) . And not once have I had an issue with reactions. And Ive been using them for several years. Especially when I want to compare 3 different reds for an example if I am trying to get close to an OEM color. The spoons have a curvature to them so you can see the changes in the color as the spoon rolls over in the sunlight. Something your not going to get if sprayed on a flat panel. I don't have to worry about compatibility issues with the paints I use . I pretty much use the Tamiya, Testors and Duplicolor exclusively which I already know works on models with zero problems. Depending on the type of paint I may even spray it directly on the spoon if I'm in a hurry , no primer at all. Again not an issue except you might have to account for sunlight coming thru the backside if left in bare plastic Bag of 100 cost me $1 at the local dollar general store Its a simple idea really. If you don't like them or the idea of them, don't use them . But don't condemn those who do

Good score. Both build into beautiful shelf pieces. I have the Cadillac but not the Mercedes

Will they have the PLYMOUTH DIVISION lettering in them ?

Just an FYI, my high bid was just BARELY over the winning amount

Different wheel size . The op's covers are for a 14" rim

It was a 1970 Roadrunner. I wanted it as well. But wasn't about to pay over the price it was at. Ive got one and for a decent price I would like another one . But not that much . That one got to about $140 in the 1st day or so I might go thru my 69 GTX kits and pick the 2 best. then unload the 3rd

Johan 1969 GTX I Looked for the past 3 or 4 years to get one of these reasonable. Bought 3 of them in the past 8 months , when it rains it pours I guess Same seller had both the original issue 1969 and 1970 Roadrunners. I wasn't paying what they went for

My original MPC. went a slight different path besides stock

IMO . this one has a better / more accurate body than the Revell does. Now if it just had the right grille inserts Does this newest version have the non 500 rear window in it now ?