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Best Adhesive for Windscreens?


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Formula 560 Canopy Glue from Zap. Fantastic stuff. Very strong bond when set, dries completely clear, fills gaps, cleans up with water, and you can use water to soften it again if you need to remove something later.

best,

M.

Edited by Matt Bacon
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4 minutes ago, iamsuperdan said:

I've been pretty happy with the Micro Krystal Klear.

I just bought some of that and it is really thick…pretty much the same as any white PVA glue. I wonder if it would still work well if thinned down so that it could wick into the seam a bit?  My favourite is Model Master clear parts cement and window maker, but it is no longer produced and I am getting low on it.

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2 hours ago, NOBLNG said:

I just bought some of that and it is really thick…pretty much the same as any white PVA glue. I wonder if it would still work well if thinned down so that it could wick into the seam a bit?  My favourite is Model Master clear parts cement and window maker, but it is no longer produced and I am getting low on it.

 I've seen people use it with a small brush, and it's way too much in my opinion. But if it works for them, then it's all good. :)

Just a little bit on a toothpick holds everything in place. And the toothpick can get into the little cracks and crevices.

 

 

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I've tried that Testors, clear parts specific glue with pretty bad results. After that some board members suggested good old Elmers white glue (dries clear). then I found some Elmers that starts out clear and is supposed to dry clear. I'll let you know haw that goes when I use it.

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I don't want to call it "the best", but I've found that clear 2-part epoxy works better than anything else that I've tried, and once it's dry, that glass ain't goin' nowhere! :D

 

I'll usually tape the glass in position in several places around the perimeter, and then apply glue to the open areas with a tooth pick.

Once the glue has set hard, I'll remove the tape and apply more glue to the areas that were covered by the tape.

 

I don't like thin glues, or ones with "capillary" capabilities, because I don't want the glue, "capillary-ing" all over the place, and, well, we all know how well some kit glass fits, so I find that a thicker glue works better for me.

 

 

 

Steve

 

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 4/5/2023 at 6:56 PM, Horrorshow said:

Modge Podge 

I was going to ask about that.  There's a YouTube car model builder who uses it on all his "glass" and seems happy with its strength and clarity.  

 

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For me, here in England, I find that Crystal Clear adhesive by Zero Paints is really good for all clear plastic parts. The good sized bottle lasts for ages, and the application nozzle on the cap is very efficient. This is not the strongest glue, but it holds fine.

None of the windows in my Rolls-Royce Silver Cloud models have fallen out, and even the Revell London Bus which has many windows hasn't lost any glass.

David

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1 hour ago, NOBLNG said:

I like this Testors stuff. I use a glue looper made for thin CA to apply it in small amounts. 

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That's my favourite as well, though I've never seen one with an applicator tip like that. I apply it with a toothpick, though a CA looper would work well, will have to try it. My only complaint with it is the bottle is quite hard plastic and nearly impossible to squeeze some out onto a pallet. Another minor complaint is it does not clean up with water as purported, but that's of little matter. Perhaps a moot point, now that it's no longer available, but at the rate I build, a bottle lasts for many years, and I still have an unopened one in stock.

Having said that, my current build has a rather tricky window installation in which the small, scratchbuilt quarter windows have a significant compound curve, and I'll be fitting those with epoxy.

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30 minutes ago, Bainford said:

That's my favourite as well, though I've never seen one with an applicator tip like that. I apply it with a toothpick, though a CA looper would work well, will have to try it. My only complaint with it is the bottle is quite hard plastic and nearly impossible to squeeze some out onto a pallet. Another minor complaint is it does not clean up with water as purported, but that's of little matter. Perhaps a moot point, now that it's no longer available, but at the rate I build, a bottle lasts for many years, and I still have an unopened one in stock.

Having said that, my current build has a rather tricky window installation in which the small, scratchbuilt quarter windows have a significant compound curve, and I'll be fitting those with epoxy.

I just found this the other day at a new hobby shop in town which surprised me.🙂  I have some left from my previous bottle that I dumped into an empty Testors paint bottle, and just dip the looper in there. Alcohol seems to clean this stuff up I believe.

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On 4/5/2023 at 3:39 AM, Matt Bacon said:

Formula 560 Canopy Glue from Zap. Fantastic stuff. Very strong bond when set, dries completely clear, fills gaps, cleans up with water, and you can use water to soften it again if you need to remove something later.

best,

M.

This one gets my vote too.  I'm very impressed with how clear it dries and the bond strength.

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Currently to glue windows in place, I hold the window in place and add a few spots of Testors clear parts cement. Then after that has cured and the window is held in place well enough, I go back and finish gluing it in with CA.

The trick to using CA so it doesn't fog the windows is you place a few drops of the CA glue onto a card, or scarp of plastic. Give it a moment to "gas out" and then apply it around the window with a toothpick.  Doing it this way I have never had a problem with CA glue fogging my windows.

But I think I am going to try that two part epoxy.  I don't know why I never thought of that before.

Edited by ctruss53
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G-S Hypo is 50% Xylene, so it will dissolve, craze or mark clear polystyrene, which is why I stopped using it. True, the hypodermic applicator makes it easier to get in the right place in small quantities, but after I'd discovered Formula 560 I've never felt the need to switch back...

best,

M.

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