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Everything posted by hedotwo
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Repairing clear plastic window scratches
hedotwo replied to Nelly's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
It really all just boils down to how deep the scratch is. Shallow scratches are relatively easy with different progressive polishes (Novus, Tamiya), while deeper scratches require good old wetsanding and patience with paper up to 12000, then finish with polish. Be aware that scratches that are pretty deep will require a bunch of sanding and may leave a depression in the glass unless you do the entire surface. -
Welcome Michael!
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It's probably been mentioned here before, but if you're like me and use Flex-I-File sanding sticks (or other brands sponge-based sticks) the ends can get worn before the remainder of the sticks. I found that the Stanley Fatmax snips work the best to cutoff just what's worn and leave a nice sharp edge. Not saying Stanley is the only brand that will work, but I have other "cheapie" snips and they don't leave a sharp edge. I've never had luck with any scissors that I have around here either. The example I show isn't really worn too much but you get the idea ?
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I've used washer fluid exclusively with craft acrylics for a long time and have never had any issues with it causing problems... Folk Art, Ceramcoat, Americana, Anita's, etc. I like Folk Art best (I know Plaid makes off brands too) but all of them work just fine. Being so thin to start with causes the first couple of coats to bead up just a bit, but as you add coats it all blends together anyway. I dry each coat quickly with a mini hair dryer. The big downsides to craft paint is that they're really delicate until you clear them and they don't take to wet sanding (or dry for that matter unless you really build up many coats). Upsides are no odor, they spray nice if you get them thinned correctly, there are tons of colors and if you can't find what you want out of the bottle you can easily mix up your own. Oh, and they're cheap for those that pay attention to that. I still prefer shooting MCW or Scalefinishes, but depending on the build I don't have a problem at all with craft paints.
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Great idea and execution Pat!
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For me there's a big difference in nozzles between Testors and Tamiya. The spray pattern with Tamiya in my opinion is much finer and gentler. I don't use rattle cans too much, but generally use Tamiya when I can. I've used Testors Wet Look Clear and it never really gave any bad results. Just seems to come out heavier.
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The Paasche H is a workhorse. Easy to clean, sprays good. Plus, it's a single action which may or may not be better to start with.
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Gorgeous! Gotta love the color combo too!
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Welcome Sean, and I don't think the pic bad at all ?
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61 Buick option
hedotwo replied to GLMFAA1's topic in 1:1 Reference Photos: Auto Shows, Personal vehicles (Cars and Trucks)
Might work for a display piece if you could find a scale girl figure with a similar dress to go along with it. -
What is a good pre thinned paint for model bodies
hedotwo replied to youpey's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
x2 for MCW and Scalefinishes. Lay down great, large selection of accurate colors, and are very durable. -
Love the color choice! Great build!
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It'll be great I'm sure! Sounds like a cool combo to assemble too.
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The texture is probably a bit too coarse for the scale, but I'm happy with it. I tried spraying flat black from a rattle can at a distance a couple of times but I just couldn't get enough of a texture. Thanks
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Yes the wheel cover decals are from Speedway and they worked great. The front seat wasn't really hard to do but you need a spare rear seat to convert and then fab up the backside. I like keeping the stock pleats and those chrome tabs. Thanks for the tip about Speedway Decals Lee ?
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I described some of the issues I had with this build in my thread in the WIP category and also listed some of the mods I made including the seat backs, wheel covers and vinyl top. Shout out to Tom Geiger for printing up the exact copies of the license plates for this build of one of our family cars. Not having a color printer it was great for him to make them for me. I used MCW Marina Blue Metallic and for the vinyl top I used Testor's Fabric Black. Our car did not have the wheel opening chrome trim from the family pics I have so I did not foil them. I did miss chroming the trunk key piece when I took the pics but since corrected . I ended up very happy with the finished build in representing our car and the color is spot on. I wasn't real happy with the chrome taillight assembly being so proud to the trunk but I didn't really notice it until after I'd painted. If I had to do anything over I'd try and get the assembly to fit more flush. Thanks!
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Doing test fits of the glass/dash/interior tub to the body/frame I noticed right off that there was a problem getting the body down to the frame at the front fender well. To me, not getting it down would keep the front high. There was interference at the spot marked where the dash met the body. Filing on the corners of the dash and part of the tub. Interference with the vent window glass kept the body from being flush with the top of the tub at the door panels. I cut a section out of the glass and filed until it all fit. I've marked in red the material I needed to remove. Also needed to remove part of the package tray for the tub to sit high enough in the body/glass. I used wheel covers from the SS annual but wanted to replicate the stock bowtie center. I punched out small discs from 015 sheet, painted black, and added homemade decals to the discs.
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I'd been working on this build along with the '61 Impala 4 door for the past couple of months. This '67 build is about as close to our family's car that I could realistically get it. Dad bought it new in early '67 and it was the car I took my driver's license test on my 16th birthday in October of 1968. At times this was a frustrating build, trying to correct a number of issues that I found with the Supernatural kit. At least on my kit there were issues. I'm not embarrassed to say I built this into a curbside, although I'm sure many of you will roll your eyes . I saved a number of photos while I was doing the build and after I've got them all up I'll do an Under Glass on the finished car. First thing I wanted to try and correct was what I saw as an upward swing of the body line on the front fenders. After some shaping I was happier with the look, however that was only part of the story with how the front end just didn't look right. Too high and that upward swing. I'll post pics of how I dealt with the whole body/frame/interior/windshield fitment. Next I wanted to correct the leading edge of the fenders where they meet the grille trim. My kit needed an extension puttied in to correct it. We had a vinyl top our car and this was the first time I've tried replicating one. I needed to add the trim at the rear and the C pillar (or would it be the B pillar on a hardtop?) and ended up using Testors Fabric Black which I was happy with. I wanted to try and replicate the stock Impala pattern on the front seat rather than use the Supernatural bench. I used the rear seat from a spare '67 kit, filled the speaker, and then needed to fab a seat back and sides. I used quarter round and flat sheet and I think it looks pretty good. Not a perfect front bench, but at least the pattern is correct. The rear seat was easier as I only needed to fill the speaker opening. Our car did not have that option but had a speaker on the package shelf.
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If you haven't used it before you'll love their paint. Lays down so nicely.
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