peteski

The MIG stuff seems similar to the Hasegawa Mirror Finish foil (which is quite expensive).

That is just precious!

Dave, what is an "acrylic paint"? Can you explain? The hobby paint terminology is so convoluted due to ambiguous and/or vague usage of the terms. Paint is a general term for liquid coatings which dry or harden on the painted surfaces. Those paints then can be subdivided into multiple categories, based on the solvents and the binder chemistries. Acrylic lacquers and acrylic enamels are both "paint". So are nitrocellulose-based paints, epoxy paints, urethane paints, etc. Unfortunately the average modeler has barely or no clue of what the correct usage of the terminology is. Vague hobby paint labeling makes things ever more confusing. I'm not a chemist, but I to be a better modeler I have familiarized myself with the basics of paint, their types and the terminology used. We all really need to get better at understanding paint terminology.

It is the moisture in the air that causes chemical reaction in liquid CA causing it to polymerize (harden) I just like using fancy words. Cold air (like in the freezer) contains very little moisture, so that environment extends CA's life, plus the cold temperature slows down chemical reactions.

Well then, you answered your own question!

Yeah, 9 years!! So why did you bring this thread back? Do you have any updates on your progress?

That is a sad news. Condolences to his family and many friends.

LOL, why you make a humorous point, this guy is likely making money from his videos - consider it as a "second job" he is working at the same time as hist primary job. Plus he is having fun doing 2 jobs at once.

Rusty92, I'm not sure why you tagged my post as confusing - there is *NOTHING* confusing about it. This world is getting really, really weird. EDIT: And another confused tag from Rusty. I'm beginning to be confused as to what confuses him.

Well, thanks. I'm aware of online translators. The point was that this seems to be English-speaking forum. AndryR could have have done the same, and made their post in English. Yes, I know it is a newbie, but they must have realized that this is a English language forum. I speak Polish, but I don't make my posts in Polish (well except the earlier one, just to make my point).

Yeah, living in NYC it is prudent to sleep with a baseball bat! It might save your life! Very cute!

Easy for you to say. Nie rozumiem, co napisałeś.

While those are inexpensive and easy to deal with, in most cases the wire in them is out-of-scale (usually too thin) to properly represent scale suspension springs. Little things like that can make or break the model's realism. I took one of those pen springs and measured its wire to be 0.0135" in diameter. The comes out to 0.34" in 1:25 scale, or 0.32" in 1:24 scale. Hmm, I guess that would work for some light duty springs. They still look too thin to my eyes,

That's because the flames start at the back (gas tank) of the Pinto as soon as something even touches the rear bumper. I would think you're old enough to remember that.

. . . and yellow (for fog lights or French headlighs).

Fluoride is not going to make a difference. Pretty much all toothpastes contain fluoride (to strengthen tooth enamel). The important point is to use white colored toothpaste, not the translucent gel type. The white toothpaste contains mildly abrasive polishing agent, while the gel type does not.

Exactly! You read me correctly.

There is a possibility that the clear wrapping material (something like the soft-stretchy-clingy Saran Wrap) has leached its plasticizer into the clear plastic (sort of like the "tire melt" problem). So the plastic itself might be slightly deformed and softened. In that case it will be difficult to fix it.

Thanks George -- I was not the one looking for Larry. I was just surprised that he did not chime on this thread, since he is being discussed.

If it is marketed for graffiti then I expect that paint to be rather viscous and very opaque. 1-coat coverage! It will also adhere to pretty much any surface. Just look around you - graffiti is everywhere on everything.

I really enjoy peeking into this thread to see progress being made. It is the phosphoric acid in Coke (or Pepsi) . While I have not tried, citric acid (in lemonade) might do the same. After all kit's "chrome" is actually very thin layer of of delicate aluminum. But phosphoric acid will not strip the clear coating under the aluminum. You need alkali to do that (like Lye in the purple pond or in Easy-Off). And for fun facts google "many uses for Coca Cola", and you'll find things like https://www.wisebread.com/51-uses-for-coca-cola-the-ultimate-list

Like others have mentioned, I made my own from needles and some 1/8" acrylic rod. They work great, and I have wide range of sizes (not all of the sizes were successful, but I kept them anyways). Also different sizes work for different viscosity glues. The Micorbrushes are for applying the accelerator.

CA glues harden (not dry), but either way the end result is unusable glue. I haven't bought the Gold odorless version for quite some time, but I don't recall it hardening faster than other BSI CA adhesives I use. But then again I have a ritual I go through to extend life of all my CA glues (by keeping moisture out of the bottles). The problem with the Gold CA is that I was using very little of it relative to other CA types, so I do recall that proportionally more of it went bad than other CAs. Keeping the CA bottles (tightly sealed) in a fridge also extends its life.

LOL! No. I wish. That was the price on November 2016. I date my glue bottles when I buy them. The 11-16 is the "date code".

That's craftsmanship!