peteski

Yuck!

I suspect that if you are willing to update the photos, if you were to contact the moderators, they would likely work out a solution with you. Nobody likes post with "broken" photos.

My friend who flies RC electric model airplanes stores the LiPo batteries in an ammo can (since they the batteries are sometimes known to catch on fire.).

For info on small drill bits I highly recommend reading this thread.

Holly Toledo, that model looks like a 1:1 car! That's incredible.

Well, I had good luck with the BSI odorless CA not fogging clear parts. (of course it is more expensive than standard CA glue, and I know many are lookign for cheap solutions). Also, when the CA is quickly set with accelerator, there will not be any fogging. And another hint I heard is that dipping the clear parts in Future (or whatever that floor finihs is now called) will prevent any fogging. I have not tried that myself.

And that's what it all boils down to. Use whatever you feel works the best, but also don't be afraid to try something new.

RIck, I pointed everybody (including you and Rodent) to another thread about dealing with CA glue (which includes few posts from me that show the tools I use to successfully apply CA glue). What else would you like me to describe in this thread about Testors red tube cement? My opinion has not changed. If anyone who is using CA for as their modeling adhesive ends up with is all over the model and themselves, they are doing it wrong. I'm no genius or expert, yet I manage to achieve clean CA glue joints, and off my fingers. Use the right viscosity glue for the job, and if needed, some tools to apply it. That's it.

But I *DO NOT* have problem with CA, and I actually prefer it to other glues when there is a choice. If I'm able to apply CA with precision (and without gluing my fingers) I think there is a good chance that everybody can too. I don't see a need to look for alternatives. Having said that, as I mentioned before, I have other adhesives in my arsenal of modeling supplies. My solvent glue applicator bottle also has 0.007" needle, and I see that you also have to create a vacuum inside the bottle so your glue doesn't drip out. Yes, that work, but to me it is very awkward to have to actually squeeze the bottle less to make the liquid come out. I do have to use it for some applications, but I don't like it.

Eliminate the need for CA? How? Not sure if I follow. What if I'm gluing resin or metal parts? For thin CA I very successfully use the "fork type" applicators made from a sewing needles (more info is in the thread I liked to earlier). While solvent cement is useful for certain without CA glue (all viscosity) modeling wouldn't be fun at all. Some modelers, who still like to apply thin CA out of the bottle, use very small nylon tubing inserted into the tip of CA glue bottle cap. It is almost as thin as a hypo needle. But I still prefer better control of the method I use. As for that bottle with hypo-needle applicator, it is a hit or miss proposition. I use Methylene Chloride as plastic cement., and the heat from my hand holding the bottle evaporates the liquid inside the bottle creating pressure in the bottle, making the liquid come out of the needle on its own, without even squeezing the bottle. In order for this not to happen I have to first hold the bottle right side up and squeeze out some air. Then while holding it squeezed, I turned upside down and, with my fingers I have to control the pressure inside so that I have better control of the liquid coming out. Not very convenient or precise. There is a liquid cement applicator which is just an open ended glass tube with a hypo needle application n one end. You fill that tube with liquid cement and since the other end is open, there is no pressure buildup. The liquid stays in the applicator until the needle is touched to some surface.

That's pretty funny Jim. I love it!

I suspect that just like on this side of the pond, Lye is used for unclogging drains. Check the ingredients on those products. Same goes for oven cleaners. Check if they contain Lye. If they do, then those should strip "chrome" and paint from plastics. Lye is also also used for making soap (and that seems to be one of today;s hobbies) You might also be able to buy Lye from a chemical supply dealer. Just remember never to add water to lye. Always slowly add lye to water. https://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/tips-and-tricks/back-to-basics-lye-safety-guide/

You're welcome. Looks like it was me who wasn't paying attention. I use CA all the time and I don't recall the last time I glued my fingers to anything. And when I did, it was likely not while using the glue on a model, but accidentally spilling it. But (as I showed in the other thread) I rarely apply it to the glue joint directly from the applicator on the bottle. And if I do, it is never the thin CA, but usually medium or thick viscosity. Thanks for providing the name of those little dental cups. I had no ideal they were called Dappen glasses. They are very handy for modeling tasks. They are heavy, and stable on the bench, and perfect as vessels for holding small amounts of paint or glue. As I mentioned, I also find the AC accelerator to be indispensable for my modeling. And after trying several brands, I find that the BSI brand is by far the best. Funny company name, (Bob Smith industries), but excellent products. Bob Smith sounds like a generic name someone would give when checking into a hotel.

Wow! Thanks Casey! I thought these were long out of production and gone forever. Those Tripart meshes are excellent (much better and finer that any other photoetched mesh I have ever found). They also made some really fine piano hinges, but I think those are long gone.

I think he wants to be like those Dollar Store craft acrylic paints. A buck per bottle.

I think you combined the statements I made in separate posts. I didn't say that CA glue was the "right" way. I use multiple adhesives when I build models,, and even mutliple viscosity of CA glue. The "right" statement was specifically about gluing prepainted parts. I agree that the extra thin CA is very runny, but it has its applications. If for what you're using it, it makes a mess, use a thicker viscosity CA, and set it quickly after you align the parts, with a dab of BSI brand accelerator applied on a Micro-brush. I don't want to hijack this thread to discuss CA glue, but if you want, check out the following thread and my replies there, showing what CA glue and glue applicators II use.

When browsing the forum on Windows PC I see no difference in behavior (including photo upload) before and after it was moved to a new server. Either way, it was not a forum software update - just moving the same version of forum from one piece of hardware to another. At least that is what I believe has occurred. Seems to me that the problem is likely on your end (your device).

Thanks Michael. So those large lights were raided from other kits, not an aftermarket items. You have good eye for realism!

Tamiya Masking Tape for Curves. It is some sort of a plastic (vinyl?) tape.

When gluing halves of (unpainted) objects that have rough surface (like a transmission casting), and using a pointy brush to flow thin liquid cement into the joint, even if some cement gets outside of the joint, it will evaporate quickly, not really affecting the surface finish. When the joint is then smoothed and painted there will not be any visible scars from where the glue got outside the joint. If you paint the parts before gluing, then you;re on your own (and you will have a visible seam, regardless whether any glue got outside the joint or not).

Very well done! Both, the model and the photography.

As long as those ignored things are *NOT* on the model.

With COVID-19, you might have hard time finding Isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol. You do need at least 91%. I buy mine (99%) in gallon size tin can at a hardware store. It is in the paint thinner section and it is usually called IPA99 or Isopropanol99. If they don't have it in stock, they should be able to special-order it for you. It will probably cost $30, but it is as strong as you can find (still safe on kit's plastic).

Then you're not doing it right. MY preferred glue for models (of all types) is CA (and accelerator).

Edsels? That is interesting - thanks Brian. In use from 1926-1958? That's over 30 years!