bobss396

I avoid using enamel paints like the plague. I believe my last was some NASCAR spray cans that worked well enough. On softer paints, I'll start with a #3200 grit. I use only spray cans, too lazy and a lack of a dedicated model painting area. In the past 15 or so years I have used almost exclusively Tamiya TS sprays, Duplicolor, Mopar (eBay), the old Black Gold products.

Wow, skill level 745... lots of work went into this one.

I paint outside too. Even in winter, dash out, paint and dash back in. The only paints I have a blush issue is with Duplicolor spray cans. As a kid, I used a big cardboard box that sat with one side cut out, on top of the washing machine. I may have to do that come real cold weather. My main concern then would be the dryer lint.

These old kits are a pile of work for sure. Few other than us appreciate the HOURS that go into making a single piece look right.

I had given some thought to getting a dedicated model building shed. Even an 8' x 8' would do it. Run a few electric lines from my pool outlets and I would be in business.

We did a lot of 3D printing at work. At first, mainly prototype parts before we had them machined up. Fits and tolerances were excellent. We later graduated to making assembly tooling as well, we found the parts we could use as-is with no further machining. Threaded holes, we bonded in threaded inserts. Some of the inserts like Dodge Serts we pressed in. I buy a lot of 3D parts. My main gripe is that distributor holes and also those in master cylinders are often too small for even a .016" wire. I use a lot of braided lines that measure .020", good luck opening those holes even by .002-.004". In thin sections, the material is quite brittle. It would be easy enough to design-in a larger hole for easier assembly and establish a glue-line. This shows that many parts makers are not the actual consumers.

How was the glass fit? I got one kit, looked at it and put it back in the box. I would have had to re-make the rear window opening from scratch, I don't recall how bad the windshield fit was. I built one as a kid, also the gasser style.

I had met Bobby at a DIRT modified race at Flemington NJ in 1983, he signed a bumper sticker for me, I should still have it. His car was a Miller beer replica of his WC cars. I met Davey when I was running at Islip in 1984, I got to talk with him a bit. Too tragic that he is no longer with us.

I knew a few guys in my club some years back, they swore by Plastic Wood. I thought it was too coarse to use. Does it sand out smoothly? I'm using Bondo or 3M spot putty, less is more of this product. How much does the PW shrink?

I just read the whole thread. Nice choice on the chassis, I would never thought of using a WC chassis under a non stock car build. Making it up as you go along, that is the fun part.

I had to stop yesterday, my table was out of hand in a big way. I have 5 projects going at once... My main area is about 3 foot by 18", behind that I have supplies, projects boxed up. I cleaned everything off and went out to buy a bigger mat, 11" x 17" at Hobby Lobby. I have a smaller one I keep files and sanding sticks on. BUT... it is a vast improvement for me. I tend to build in total chaos. Just like my 2.5 car garage crammed with cars, parts, tools and machine shop equipment. I'm going to get a better (non leaking...) shed so I can move some stuff out to it. At work, my office was known for being a disaster zone. I always had a lot going on.

I will report back when they arrive. The 3D ones were too much like work to get them to be acceptable to me.

Mine took a dump on me a few years back. It is a Magic Chef, my brother found them at Walmart at the time. We did mine up first, got into the base and wired in a light switch type dimmer switch to control the heat. I just ran across the "schematic" I drew up for it back them. I know I can get a base on eBay. My brother made his shallower than mine, he used a piece of plastic scrounged from work and is about 6" deep. Mine I used 10" chimney flashing, pop-riveted at the seam and to the bottom tray. Lousy picture but you can see where I have the thermometer and the dimmer switch at the bottom left.

I had a real '67 SS in Nassau Blue. It earned me loads of tickets with the hot 327 in it.

I just bought these, just what I was looking for. PE brass with a decent .028" hole in them. I bought some 3D resin hooks on eBay, but they need a lot of work to look decent. https://stsupplyco.com/products/chain-hooks-photoetched-brass-5mm-long-x-2-5mm-wide-7mm-hole?_pos=13&_sid=79dabf754&_ss=r

I build phantoms too. I did a Mario Andretti one, blue and gold. Also a Terry Labonte MW Windows one.

Odd they would issue a kit with a rough body like that. I generally take my time with bodies, re-scribe panel lines, remove flash, give every outside feature a slight radius to they take more paint. Then I'll wet-sand with 2400 grit and wash with soap and water before I shoot any primer.

I used to talk to him at the NNL East, he is already missed. A truly great painter.

I like it over white lacquer, also it has a great effect over flat black, really like a nice satin finish. No polishing was needed with that. I also shoot it over flat metalizers I use on wheels.

I had BMF tarnish with a model I stored in the box, wrapped in paper towels. The towels yellowed and messed up the foil. I haven't tackled the bad foil yet, maybe it will come off easily with a little rubbing. BTW, the AMT '49 Mercury is one of my all time favorite kits. I built one in 1963 when I was 8 and painted it Testors yellow from the jar.

AMT makes some Good Year and Firestone wide oval tires that are quite nice, some with wheels, some without.

I have elcheapo Summit bars on my old Ford, yellow of course. They work well and most of my wheel hop on the 1-2 shift is gone. I saw the resin ones too and they look good. Make some u-bolts from .020" brass rod, or aluminum rod that Detail Master carries. And their #1 hex nuts and it will look real.

I use plain paper most of the time. I save some stuff off the printer to write on the back. Paper carries no static charge, so a win-win. I'll also spray away from the taped line whenever possible.

I have a lot of small hardware like 0-80 and 2-56 and it comes in handy. A 2-56 screw measures up at .086" nominal, an 0-80 is .060".

Very clean! Those Vegas are really tiny compared to Novas, etc.