Bainford

Thanks for that. I just bought a bag of #15 hex beads. I also picked up a bag of #15 round beads in flat black, as they seemed potentially useful. It's also worth checking out the 'Tools & Adhesives' section. There are some interesting tools there that would be useful for model building.

I've seen these on models as well where they have been used to great effect, but I've not found any usable sizes in the craft stores, etc. Been looking for years. I as well am interested to know what is out there in scale sizes, and with a clean hex shape.

Very nice build on a tough kit. Beautiful!

Beautiful build. Very nicely done. Those decals look as though they might be challenging, but the application is excellent.

Sorry to hear of the circumstances, but thanks for posting the photos. I’m super digging that Lagonda. RIP Tony

Very intriguing!

It seems to me that there was an old AMT kit with valve covers like those pictured in the OP, but without the script. I want to say it was the '65 Barracuda mid-engine kit.

Cool old show rod. I'm digging the tail lights.

Thanks for this, too. Very interesting annealing procedure. I'll give this a try. The beer can aluminium also has a plastic coating, but is easily removed with scotchbright pads, fine sand paper, etc. I've never tried annealing it, though.

I've not played much with die cast bodies, but scuffing the existing paint with very fine sandpaper should do the trick. Be sure to get in all the corners and grooves, too. If the existing paint has orange peel, I would block sand using sandpaper wrapped around a vinyl drafting eraser. The alternative would be to strip the paint, prime with etching primer, and re-paint.

Cheers Straightliner. .005” will be good usable material. I like the work you’ve done there. I agree that sheet metal is much better than plastic for replicating panels and thin metal parts.

Have you measured the thickness? I’d be curious to know how thick it is. I use a lot of pie plate and beer can aluminum of various thickness, but always looking for new sources of material.

Nice build of the Petty Ford. Not an easy kit to make look this good.

Cool looking rod, Tom. With all that weight shed, it should move along pretty good. How are the brakes?

Steve, this may be my favourite of your builds. Everything is right. It’s gorgeous, and hey, is R code.

Great concept. I love aero engine cars, the older the better, and this fits the bill. So cool.

Very cool! Impressive craftsmanship and detailing. The weathering is very realistic, well done. Great style, too. I love it.

I had a Monogram Mustang chassis forgotten in Super Clean for close to two years, with no ill effects except for a crust of crystalised Super Clean on some parts, which could be easily scraped away after soaking in water for an hour or so.

Thanks for this, Steve. Unfortunately I can't see your photos, but I am one who has questioned Super Clean's effectiveness on lacquer, though I am aware that others have had success. I painted a Chaparral in Tamiya racing white from the spray can, over Tamiya primer. The paint was only about 3 weeks old when I decided to strip it in Super Clean. After a two week soak I could not remove the paint. There are many variables that can effect the stripping abilities of any paint remover, but I have come to accept that Super Clean is generally good for stripping lacquer. I usually don't paint with lacquer so haven't had much opportunity to strip it, but I seem to be using lacquers more lately. I have wondered if Super Clean loses some of its power over years. My bottle of Super Clean is over 15 years old so it may be time to replace it. One stripper I haven't tried is 91-99% alcohol. I know many have had success stripping lacquer with it as well.

Very nice looking GT-40. This particular example is one of my favourites of the breed. Well done.

In my mid to late teens I did all of my model building out in the garage. I would routinely work and paint out there in winter temps as low as -10c (about 14 f) and never had any issues short of occasional excessive shivering, so no free-hand custom painting until the weather warmed up. I never knew anything about pre-warming the paint, etc. Flash times were a little slower but otherwise no adverse issues.

The 1:1 parts are made in raw, unpainted fiberglass. I wonder if moulds could be made of kit parts, then copies cast in fiberglass (polyester?) resin.

Schrodinger's cat... the kit would still be just as collectable if you had not opened it.

If I'm not mistaken, Tamiya cut one of these as well. Probably in the 'electric motor model' days.

No complaints here. Seriously, It's a lovely winter. Just needs more snow.