Cool Hand

Really like the Veilside body kit on the R32's. And the wheels in the kit are great with the different offsets, got to like the deep dish rears. Interesting colour selection. Good to see, it's different and it does suit it very well. Wise idea colour matching the wheel centres. Well done.

x2 with it being good to see a progress update. Nice work on the diff, going to look the part perfectly after a bit of detail painting. Engine plate was a great idea so you can mount it on the frame rails, and again it will look the part. Agree those headers look good built up. The kit engine with a bit of visual interest detail work, would be cool. But that supercharged drag engine is what will make this build something special. If you dont mind sacrificing some accuracy and it is needed to make something work and its visually appealing I say go for it.

Good to see someone knows what it is, had the engine in the spare parts stash for years and wanted it to go in something different. So into the 77 in went, I call it my Japanese version of Fast & Furious Doms Charger. LOL!

Started roughing in a custom engine bay on another build. The build.

Same as David I use Sharpie's, use them on my all my builds. Much quicker and easier to do touch ups and correct mishaps.

Got this one finished. An enjoyable simple build. Kit was alot better than I thought it would be. WIP thread is here My usual Tamiya TS-14 black, this time I did polish with Tamiya coarse, fine, finish compounds. And waxed with Meguiars NXT Tech wax 2.0 Interior TS-49 bright red over coated with Alclad Klear Kote flat ALC 314. Pegasus Chrome DZ's wheels, scratch built air tank and solenoids, 3D printed compressors and Lead City plaque.

Thanks. Depends on the kit and how the oob wheels mount. And whether the back will fit inside Pegasus wheels. If it does drill out the centre of the back to suit. I dont worry about it very often. To fit the Pegasus wheels, I replace kit axles with 2mm brass rod. Using a 2mm drill open up the holes. Then drill holes in the part where the kit wheels use to mount. Can put the brass axle in the part or the wheels either way works.

I am of the belief when doing black paint with no clear, that the finished paint will only be as good as the surface beneath it. Got the paint applied couple hours ago.

Got the surfacer sanded ready for paint. Very rare for me to use wet and dry sandpaper or polishing cloth's nowadays, I prefer to use these sanding sponges by Infini.

Yeah the a.d.d is a problem. Well im in the lowrider mood lately so im going about sussing some idea's out and possibly do some paint work while the summer weather lasts. Another kit I bought from ole mate Ray. A very lucky score as it was my holy grail kit. My liking for the 68 Impala came about from the movie The Principal. Then I became a fan of Lowriders. The kit is in the wrong box, no instructions and missing some parts. But that didnt matter. Over view of what parts came in the box. Set it up on the oob chassis. I really like the tail lights in the bumper of the 68's Also like the rear quarter and roof shape.

Good job on all the custom work, certainly made it your own. I like what you done to the engine with supercharger and scoop.

Dug out this stalled build which was started in 2013. At that time, adapted the wheels, set the ride height and got all the parts cleaned up and that's when I stopped working on it. Got the body out last year for prep and a coat of surfacer, then stopped working on it again. This time im going to try get it complete. The kit. As per usual my favourite wheels. Parts are all good to go, just need a wash and then paint. Makes me laugh they have been in this container for 8 years. Box stock chassis. Separated the x part of the frame so the join line could be cleaned up properly. Reason for that will come about later. Modified the oob inlet manifold to have a dual carb set up. And a surfacer wheel mock. Got some nice warm summer days all week, so fingers crossed I can get the usual black paint applied.

Well interior has been installed, so last couple pics until it goes to Under Glass. Just need to re-paint the bumpers and then final assembly.

Thank you Mike. Thanks Nigel, appreciate your input about the wheels.

Thanks Dennis. Dont usually wet sand or polish my black paint jobs. So for a change I thought id polish with compounds and finish with a wax to see what the results would be. Chucked some painted wheels under it to see how they would look, still cant decide if I go with all black or black centres with chrome lips or all chrome. Decisions decisions....

Thanks Anton and David. Now the paint has fully dried and it has shrunk back the sags are less noticeable. And I cant be bothered fussing over it, so I can live with it. Moving on, got the BMF applied., Done a search to suss out the window trims on this car, and there was so many variations, so I just done it how I wanted it to look.

Thanks, paint will be black like most of my lLowrider builds.

It's all good David, no clearance issues with the tyres. I thinned the arch's for appearance. Guess ive flushed tyres on too many Japanese builds and it's become a habit as I do it on most builds now. A catch up pic from yesterday to show re shaped rails. Actually need to do the opposite and widen the diff . And sorted out the seats and console fittment. They were one piece so... And didnt fit. So separated.

As Roger said dont see many Lowrider 56's built, good to see something different. Looks great with the continental, side skirts and 2 tone . Classic build, nicely done.

Good job re working the tail lights and grille. How could I not like the build, its black. Well done. Look forward to seeing the Silverado.

Painted it the other day, today got to mock it up. Started ten years ago and now that its painted and im happy, could be a possibility that il complete the build finally.

With that fiasco out the way. Got the front sorted. Used the dividers to measure from the existing hole. But when I put the axle in and wheels on to check how it looks, this situation arose. The cross member was lower than the wheels. LOL! Always fun and games when lowering a build down in the weeds. Luckily these types of axle kits are simple enough to work around troubles. So set the short axle locating stubs in position and marked the side of the cross member for flush cut to the frame. Had to sand down excess material on the sides of cross member, then spot super glued it back in place. Also needed to thin the tops of inner fenders for tyre clearance and filled the hole while I was it. . Put the wheels back on and had a look. Much better. To lower the rear, had to notch the frame and gouge a hole as the diff was hitting the floor preventing it to lower further. And re shaped the frame to disappear the ugly notch. Didnt get a pic of after. Il show that later. So after all that messing about finally got the results I wanted. Engine also sitting in a much better position after raising the cross member. And finally Old style axle through the block. Yeah nah, cant have that. Quick rough filled in. And added some 1.6mm styrene rod for a mounting pin in the cross member.

Build session didnt start out to good today, wanted to start out with thinning the wheel arch's before setting to the lowered ride height. But dumb me got carried away when thinning one of the arch's with the drum sander in the dremel micro. Nearly burnt through on the right side rear. But what ever no big deal, just had to fix the situation. So back filled inside with super glue. Once it had cured on the inside, was able sand the damaged on the outside. Re applied some 1500 black to the area to see how it looked, I was happy enough to leave it as is for now and finalize the repair when I prep the body.

Thanks Chaz. Got the stance/ride height roughed in to where im happy now. Check it out in the posts below.

Excellent build as always, certainly has your particular build style all over it. Cant help but think this kit would be a great candidate for a ute conversion.