larman

Wow! great job!

Nice job on the Mustang and congratulations on the award! Really like that Chevy more though !!

Great job! Love the weathering! The coal looks great!

Super build! The weathering is spot on! I grew up around farm trucks and you nailed the look perfectly.

That's cool! Great color! I am thinking about putting the 1950 F1 kit on an old Monogram F-150 high roller chassis I have,. hope it comes out that nice!

That's a great gift! Your dad will love it!

Tremendous work! Great stance , love the careful work getting the interior upgraded and the trunk and chassis detail!

Super nice! Great engine!

You did a nice job on the chop and the scratch built bed, especially for the time! Looks like it has nice paint and detail too!

That motor is phenomenal! Great job!

great job! Love the color and the gold really looks good on the wheels.

Beautiful work! The display is perfect for it!

Very nice build. I like all the old classic kits. It certainly was a high point for style in those days. Love your color choices and attention to detail!

If you are just building for fun or want a modern version mash up, the kit designations are fine and who cares what class it runs in. It's more for the aesthetic quality. If you are trying to build a correct drag car then class makes a difference. If you look at the Mazmanian car above, it is designated as a Modified Sport car, The Revell kit and real car it is based on, call themselves gassers. Again, these are modern interpretations.The real Corvette drag cars from back then would have been in the Modified Sport class and sometimes would have run gasser or altered class. (at smaller tracks or events when there were less cars). Also, it depended on year, IIRC, because some classes were added, absorbed, or removed, etc. Also look at the tires and stance on the real Mazmanian car and look at the modern versions. The modern versions seem to meld the race look with the later street freak look and sit much higher. And have smaller front tires with straight axles. Again a lot of people like it and they are popular, but I don't think you need to be worried about being correct if you are building a modern type car. I know it seems like splitting hairs, but to me there is a night and day difference between both the Revell '57 Ford and Corvette "gasser" kits and the pics of the real drag cars. If you are shooting for that look, you will need to do some modifying , parts swapping and research if you want it right.

This model as it sits looks like a modern interpretation, not an actual vintage gasser. Those pics of the real cars in the post above, show 3 different cars and only the middle one is an original pic of an actual 60s gasser. The Galpin car and Bone Shaker are modern cars that kind of look the part. The model is closer to those, which is probably why it has all the goofy class and engine decals. IMHO, If you want a correct 60s era gasser, you would need to ditch the Y block. I am not sure it would have been anywhere near competitive in even the bottom end gas classes. Y block powered cars would have made better junior stockers and there were a few that were competitive back then. I am probably going to build one of my '57 Wagons as a junior stocker with the Y block and use the gasser parts under something more common in the gas classes, such as a tri 5 Chevy. A '57 Ford gasser would probably be more accurate with an FE motor or any number of bigger drag motors that were popular at the time. Then as others said, it would be weight divided by cubic inch to determine class. And the supercharger designation changed over the years. The best way to get it right is to go into the drag section on this site and consult the original NHRA rulebooks that are posted there. Pick a year and build to those specs.....

Stunning build! Love the color combo, Great paint and detailing !

Nice work!!

That's some beautiful paint and lettering!

Super nice! Great colors, wheels and stance. Nice detail on the motor too!

Looks great!! Nice job!

The block in a "factory" Thunderbolt would be black.

That's really cool, silver is the perfect color for it.

Look's good. Great box art! I want one! or more.

Beautiful work!!

It is probably smart to either figure or guesstimate what the entire value of the collection and then ask for half that price or slightly above if you want to move it quickly. Possibly getting someone to auction it would work, but that costs money and you would probably have to inventory and move it all. That would probably net the most money if there is good stuff there and the right bidders see it. I inherited my dads huge collection, around 2500 to 3500 items. 1/18 diecast and plastic models. All cars and trucks. It took me 2 plus years of selling on ebay, local fleamarkets and bulk sales to local dealers to get to a managable amount. Keep in mind I am into this stuff and know what it is worth. That is very different if you want to sell it realitively quickly. The adage " when I have it is worth a mint and when you have it, it's worth nothing" is absolutely true. It was a tremendous amount of work and aggravation to get it done. People chisel you on prices, stuff gets broken or damaged in shipping, ebay fees, flea market fees. Getting up at 0 dark 30, etc. If someone is not in to it, or doesn't know it is a gigantic hassle. Well, even if you are into it and do know it is a gigantic hassle.....Bottom line: the collection means something to the collector and maybe someone who understands it, but to everyone else it is just stuff and unless you get it in the right venue, you probably won't get near what its worth. And if you do, it will take quite a bit of time and work to make it happen.