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vamach1

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  1. vamach1
    Thanks guys. I have a few unbuilt ones I have been buying lately so I can add a few more to the collection.
  2. vamach1
    Have a good trip. ?
  3. vamach1
    Very nice rendition of a kit many of us would like to see done in plastic I ended up buying the DDP kit which was over $200. I was not overly impressed with it given that the chassis is no more detailed than a 1990’s 1/43 starter kit and like the Fujimi kits no engine of course. Sadly there are not any realistic options out there but you found a way I plan to use the Fujimi chassis For the DDP kit similar to how CMA Years ago did a conversion kit for the Sebring winner and there’s a more recent conversion kit of sorts out there for the Fujimi kit but it requires chopping up the Fujimi body a lot. Fujimi got a lot of mileage out of the MKI and MKII bodies and you would think they would have done a roadster version by now but I guess that is no surprise given the Revell knock off kits were not completely accurate to do the 66 Daytona MKII So there’s much incentive if you can sell kits based upon the box art. Alas the aftermarket came to the rescue once again to do the Miles Daytona winner but I think this is the reason I gravitated to 1/43 kits in the 1990’s because there were so few decent 1/24 or 1/25 GT40 kits that were worth the money. I’ll post pictures of some of the kits I mentioned in a follow up post. For now imagine if all these were in 1/24 and had engines.
  4. vamach1
    Some time ago I bought a gluebomb of an original AMT body that I primered and put away and forgot about as I put it in another lit box. I have reunited it with the box I bought separately and it appears I have all the parts to actually build a stock Mach1 or GT without paying a small fortune for an original kit.
  5. vamach1
    Very impressive Steve. Definitely more realistic looking than the actor in the rubber suit I tried to replicate. ?
  6. vamach1
    I wish I could say I have but not lately. Suffering from too many projects and still working some and trying to enjoy outdoors until it gets cold. I almost feel like I need to set aside time every weekday once I retire in a few months To building. I have too many kits that I started and I just need to finish a few before diving into a build that will take a lot longer than usual. I admire you efforts on your build and will learn a thing or two I’m sure.
  7. vamach1
    Josh, Welcome back after 10 years. Your “New” build shows you have not lost a step and Cobraman, AFX, Gramps46, Dave B, 65slotcar and many others will enjoy seeing what you build next.
  8. vamach1
    I like it. ?
  9. vamach1
    I’m sure the IPMS and soldier modelers could chime in. It makes a big difference what scale you are dealing with insofar as the realism factor, that is, the larger the scale I think the more challenging it is. You can probably find some books of info on the basic techniques regardless if the figure is plastic, resin or metal. If you’re doing a particular historical person or sci-fi creature I would gather color pictures and flatten whatever base paints you end up using. I’m sure there are articles aplenty in old magazines that should be helpful. There are some crazy talented people out there but the rest of us just experiment to see what works. Although this Creature was built from the plastic kit I think it came out decent for the only one I’ve built in the last 40 years.
  10. vamach1
    WOW - a very nice build that shows what techniques can be used to make a box of plastic, paint and glue into a realistic looking model. Often overlooked are the washes in the recessed ares that add depth or give the illusion of the doors and trunk being separate parts. Sometimes not trying to replicate a specific chassis # at a specific race allows a build like this to be appreciated for the excellent skill is you obviously have while keeping the subject matter looking like what many people think of when you mention a 427 Cobra. Not sure if you saw this one online and keep up the great work. I have a half dozen of the Revell/Monogram 427’s but cannot seem to get as much built as I would like lately.
  11. vamach1
    I found the Pre-order pictures on monstersinmotion.com. They must sell a lot of the old Aurora sci-fi kits too but I was surprised that is where the search engine too me to find the kit. ?
  12. vamach1
    Starting to look much nicer than the Trumpeter kit but it would end up being twice what I have ever paid for one kit or diecast for that matter.
  13. vamach1
    Very nice replica. I think someone did the factory ten hole wheels in resin many years ago.
  14. vamach1
    The local IPMS chapter is mostly military modelers which is typical of many IPMS clubs. Despite it being a ten minute drive away for monthly meetings (before Covid) I would drive a half hour to the Maryland Automotive Modelers Association meetings since I build only cars as do most of the other members. IPMS contests are okay as they have some civilian vehicle categories but the meetings are a snooze fest to me and there are only a handful of car builders and almost no kits I am interested in buying there from vendors. I built a few planes and tanks when I was a child but they were casualties of my childhood and were either blown up with firecrackers and/or burned up. ?
  15. vamach1
    Today’s chemistry lesson is what is PLA. Sorry for giving the same answer. There will be a quiz later. Further research leads me to believe in the 60’s it was just short for PLAstic enamel paint and simply branding.
  16. vamach1
    I pretty much see it a blank canvas to build something unusual. Having said that not sure when will see the Revell Boss 351 kit and it make take years to see any variations released. If someone did decals for this 73 that raced at SPA it would be a cool build.
  17. vamach1
    I guess the race in on. One vs four. ?
  18. vamach1
    I I was unable able to find my Gunze kit instructions. Sorry about that. I do have an unbuilt HRM kit though.
  19. vamach1
    Yes they are a bit too deep dish Just like on the promos. Not hard to figure out the origins of the kit. Something else that is way off is the front marker lights are too far forward and would not line up if one was going to try and make a Mach1 with the side stripes. The Bond red Mach1 only had the Mach1 decal which as you can tell on the promo and some of the older AMT kits was molded into the plastic.
  20. vamach1
    Are you using the kit decals? If not here’s an alternative but these may be for the Roadster version. What do I know I’m a Ford guy. ?
  21. vamach1
    Came across this picture recently which shows the difference In the fender of a 71/72 vs.73 Mustang due to the bumper size difference.
  22. vamach1
    If this Is this picture of the kits that is be “rereleased” then it looks like it will have the incorrect front bumper (the larger 1973 style) versus the correct smaller 71-72 Mach1 and Sprint bumper. All I can say is it’s not a surprise. We will see how they do with the decal sheet and if the Mach1 decal and black stripe across the trunk is correct. This website says the models will be shipping tomorrow. Perhaps soon HL will get them soon and they will show up on auctions sites by Halloween.
  23. vamach1
    I think I paid about 1/2 of that when that the Trumpeter kit came out and I see the Magnifer clone of that kit selling for under $100 online. As Cobraman said the kit better be twice as good and if it was I’d probably sell the Trumpeter kit I have now as the likelihood of me building both are pretty low.
  24. vamach1
    Clearly you do not understand sitcom tv. It’s not supposed to be realistic. ?
  25. vamach1
    The engine sat so low in the engine bay that a hole in the hood was not really need but that was the MPC kit I would not use this as a reference. I think I just ended up filling in the underside of the hood on the MPC kit that was designed for a shaker scoop. I have not tried the 70 hood on the 69 Revell kit so your best bet would be to test fit everything before you cut A hole out.
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