89AKurt

This showed up on my Yahoo feed. https://news.yahoo.com/emory-motorsports-just-unveiled-latest-130003814.html

I wouldn't try Sammy Hager, would trash my throat! I've also done The Cars, Drive. "When I drive you home..." counts, I hope.

Where to start, landau cloth top on the Buick Park Avenue, and wire hubcaps that were also on the Buick 88 that the wife had. I've noticed the quad exhaust tips on many cars, such as Cadillacs, with only one real pipe. My Mini Cooper S ('03, and '06) hood scoops were for show, aftermarket metal screens went in; and the rear bumper had fake grills. My current '16 Honda Civic has fake grills in the bumpers.

Made a prop rod for the hood, pet peeve is seeing a killer model with wired engine, with a toothpick holding the hood up. Even made a steel clip to keep it in place when the hood is closed. I was considering using turned aluminum pulleys, be decided not to, instead cut apart the kit unit, and reconfigured with strip styrene belt. Can hardly see it anyway. Added some wiring, and the fire extinguisher nozzle. I used the Mustang decals that were in the engine bay, and the important blue oval in the grill. Lightly weathered underneath. But it looked too normal. I like the colored plastic flaps that rally race cars have. Used a nut can lid, and aluminum sheet, to fabricate the air dam, and aero flaps of my design. Still needed more, fabricated control arms using railroad railing parts and brass tube. Also added differential A-arm bracing with aluminum rod. Last item, very important bling, tow hooks. Used AZ MVD website to create a license plate. I did finish it, forget if I bothered to post in Under Glass. I had started this last century, was a good feeling to finish, just have three more to get done. This picture was taken 2003, the Bus is still waiting, but the others are finished.

Whoops, pictures a little out of order..... the exhaust in place before painting. Sway bar links are done. I was inspired by some dude who is famous for painting Alcad, so I tried it, polished aluminum. The real car has an aluminum hood. Cordless drill used as a lathe, to make the fire extinguisher bottle. Small parts painted, engine accessories, battery box, fire extinguisher bottle and pull handle, nitrous bottle. Drilling the mount for the bottles. The trunk is lined with holiday packaging, flocking on plastic, that was red and I painted. Mirrors have LCD screen backing that was scavenged from broken camera. Electrical switch shaft is another scavenged part, made the lever. Shocks are scavenged from cheap cigarette lighters (not Bic), slightly modified. Front sway bar is now done. Finally, getting to painting parts! Painted flat black underneath. Cigarette package foil for insulation, and easy way to hide the transmission tunnel work. Headlights are scavenged CD laser reader, LEDs also electronic device that sacrificed itself for the greater good. Rear sway bar installed. Front sway bar, and can see the shock unit. A normal person would say that looks complete. Trunk needed finishing.

The best laid plans of Mice and Men stage..... the nail 'polish' looked like white with purple pearl, but came out like this, which was planned. I picked this Scale Motorsport copper carbon-fiber decal, not knowing it was going to be a major PITA. Should have picked this one: It was brittle, broke a lot, Solvaset melted it in spots, just looked like frisbee rabbits. I'll spare posting more pictures, it looked okay before clear coat. I considered a couple of ideas to camouflage it, found that tape pulled it off, so there was only one solution: I keep the smaller parts with the carbon-fiber that weren't too screwed up. The headlight buckets are one thing, the wing another, air dam and mirrors were saved. The Scale Motorsport upholstery decals are great! Worked on other thinks while I recovered. Top was given a fabric look using brass screen as a mask. I use insurance stickers for the lights. Made the driving light reflectors using thick foil. I use J B Weld on the back so they won't get dented. Exhaust is painted. Used magnets to ensure the hood stays down. Made the steering wheel moveable. Photo-etch pedals, otherwise the most stock part of the model. ? Oh yea, kit door panels are super plain, perfect for the racer look, and the decals came out okay there. Wire pull handles, and seat belts added. Scavenged the window cranks from a Chevy door panel.

I wanted to use the Mustang wing, but not in a normal way. I thought making it operable, to act as an air brake, would be boss. The concept is having it hooked up with the brakes, either a via brake line to hydraulic ram, or electrically to a hydraulic actuator, that detail is moot.| The factory Dumbo mirrors needed to be changed, shaping those tiny parts required fingernails cut just right! The transmission tunnel needed to be opened up, Mustang cross member is used. I *had to* fill the wheel arches, a pet peeve is seeing daylight through a model. Added screws, to mount the chassis to the body. Steel clips added to the custom cover. Convertible top need modification because of the chopped windshield. Second coat of white primer. Gloss black base coat, before the nail 'polish' pearl paint. This is when the story Of Mice And Men comes in. The kit has the simple steering link, which is representative and not really accurate. Plus the engine interfered, so needed to modify. The rod is flattened at the ends. Made half lap joints, so the plastic ends could be glued on. Bent wire after putting through Plastistruct tube. Drilled through the boots. Made a mount for the rack. Made the rest of the exhaust from solder. The tips are smashed brass tube, scavenged from a radio antenna, it's a trick to not make an 8, these go through holes in what was the front Mustang bumper. I superglued on with baking soda to set and fill. Started on the sway bar.

Do trucks count? This is completely different than Rush, but it's about Wolf Creek Pass which I've been on many times. Bet almost nobody heard this before.

Just a quick search of Flickr, I was focused on 356s, every time I see what they are doing, want to pull out my Fujimi 356 Speedster in the stash.

Gutter Patrol activated.

I've done this for karaoke, pretty well if I say so. ???? Go big, or go home. ?

I was hoping to find pictures of the door open, from the outside, but it's interesting there aren't any? All I found was this 1/8 scale model, so the door goes in at the leading edge. That also costs much more than my '68 Chevy pickup! ? http://collectorstudio.com/product/1-8-1967-ferrari-275-gts-4-nart-spyder/

Thank you. Classic design, worked with this car (IMHO). Used Plastistruct tubing, also for the driving light tunnels. Filled the back with JB Weld, but would recommend the original flavor instead of the "new & improved". A typical custom detail is to open the turn signal light openings, I have scavenged LEDs from electronic devices next to CD laser reader for headlights.

The most intimidating part of this project, was mounting the engine, into the bay that never had detail. I will admit making up the engine mounts, but when it was all done, you can't see them. Running the exhaust was a challenge too, slight modification to the cross member was required. I always planned on this muffler setup, Mustang cans with copper wire pipes. I'm using solder now for exhausts, much easier to bend. One major thing that was not planned from the beginning, was the rear cover. I love to use Corian (kitchen countertop). First shape was the plan profile: After getting it to fit, drew the elevation profile, back and sides: Rough profile done with the disk sander: The Dremel with a spiral cut bit was almost burned out: Filed and sanded until I was happy with the shape. I shall continue!

Oh man, started this thread when I began on this forum, and plain forgot to continue, thanks for asking. ? I can pretend I'm building this now, and milk it out. ? It's done, won a few awards too. I added some details to the body, to add some more jazz. The hood is inspired by the recent Shelby, and Ferrari GTO nose vents. Opened the trunk, which has a spring to keep it open, push the license plate to unlatch; should have used a thicker stronger wire for the hinge. Lowered the windshield.

with Flint ice

Grass-fed T-bones from the Farmers Market, cooked on the wood-fired bbq, doing this before Winter hits AZ.

Is the base kit the Revell? I used that kit for the engine and chassis, engineered as a curbside with view of the top of the engine, like how you added turbos. Keep up being creative, the fun about model building.

mapping out secret

outtakes found in

Tell me about it!

Thought I would try this game, since I own the Game Topic section. ? Not sure if this works.

Has anyone ever strayed from instructions, such as mounting the interior to the body, instead of gluing to the chassis? I think it would help keep everything tight, less chance of sloppy fit for the doors. I'm going to glue in mounting tabs, and perhaps use screws so I can ensure no slop.

Oh thanks! I'm considering using the fusee chain for the hinges, since the clearance is so tight. The body is surprisingly solid still, but am considering adding something. Thank you too! Hinges are a PITA, especially when the body is so rounded, and jambs are deep. Fingers crossed is the motto of Fly By Night Engineering here. Aw shucks man! ? Well, I will celebrate when it's installed, and actually works. You would say that. ? The nail 'polish' is very close to the color on this car, I should test different color base coats, such as flat black, flat white, and flat silver, then spray the nail color over to evaluate. On previous projects, I was surprised what a difference it makes. Love those models you have, they were done perfectly! I prefer those mirrors, the kit has what looks like a Chevy mirror. That Spyder also has an exterior gas cap, I was going to fabricate the trunk version.

Cool, you added plug wires!