Plowboy

I think the "current" '72 Chevy actually came from the original "72 GMC Sierra with the long fleetside bed. All they had to do was the grille, tail gate and fender emblems. I have no way to prove my thought. But, it makes sense when you think about it.

The '66 Fairlane is almost a drop in fit. Just needs a little trimming along the driveshaft tunnel.

All it takes to strip Tamiya primer and paint is 91% alcohol.

The Rolling Thunder was based on this kit.

This.^^^^

Nice work Bob! I bet a lot of memories came flooding back while you was building this!

One of the best examples of this kit that I've seen! The color looks perfect on it! Nice work Craig!

Thanx! Something I forgot to mention (and it helps greatly at final assembly) is I re-engineered the front end. After gluing just the valence to the fenders, I cut the valence and grille loose where the valence lines should be. The grille was then cut loose from the valence (this makes painting the grille simple). The rear valence got glued to the body permanent (anyone who's built this kit knows what a pain it can be to glue that piece in cleanly after paint and the chassis in the body). Come final assembly time, I installed the chassis rear first sticking the exhaust tips through. With no front valence, the front of the chassis simply slides straight up. Finally, I installed the grille, front valence and bumper. Sounds like a lot. But, it's super easy.

The majority of them (if not all) had a champagne colored interior. The seat was usually black.

Best thing to do with them is sell them on ebay. You'll get exactly what they're worth.

Here's pix of the three I've done with the Nova chassis. I was incorrect on the '66 Fairlane. I tubbed the kit chassis on it. The Nova chassis also fits under the Trumpeter Falcons. I've only got as far as checking the fit on that project.

I'll have to get pix Bob. But, I've used it under a '72 Nova, '66 Mustang and Fairlane. I think a couple of others. The process is simple. Just cut the tubbed Nova chassis just in front of the cross member that the springs rest on. Cut your stock chassis just in front of the wheel wells. Place it in the body, place the tubs on top, mark it, cut and glue together. Trim to fit if necessary. Another way to do it is use the Nova tubs/ floorpan and graft the frame clip from your kit to it. I used the entire chassis under the '72. Can't remember if I changed the front suspension or not.

The blue painters tape can work. But, it has to have a cut edge and be burnished well. The scallops on this '37 were masked with a single piece of 2". This Silverado was also done with 2" blue painters tape. But, Tamiya tape is still better for more simple masking. When you buy it, spend the extra and get the dispenser. No ruined edges or lint stuck to it. Just pull it out and use it.

That is one sinister looking 300C! And it has whole package going for it: color, wheels, stance and just a touch of rake to it. The two door conversion really makes it stand out! Nice work Steve! Can't wait to see what's next!

That's a nice looking Caprice Steve! The colors suits it perfect! The attention to all of the little details really makes it stand out! Nice work!

Nice looking GSX Gene! It's too bad these came in only two colors. I built one in white years ago. Nice work!

Thanx guys, I appreciate the feedback! Bench time has been almost non existent lately. But, I am able to get a little time in here and there. A little progress is better than no progress. As stated earlier, I was able to come up with a solution for my trunk hinge. The first thing I did was separate the package tray from the rear seat. With the glass installed, I then glued the package tray to the body. Now I have a solid mounting point for the hinge that allows it to swing properly. The glass simply slides back out. The rear of the seat meets up nicely and gives a true separation line. Another angle. About all that's left to do on the body is scribing in the lines around the remaining chrome trim and some minor touch ups. I haven't been able to pick a color for the body yet. I'm kinda thinking Pearl White. Also thinking Deep Blue Metallic and Light Gun Metal. I want something different than the typical color. But, so far, the vision for the color hasn't come to me.

A Dremel with a router bit and photo etch saw blades. On seats welded to the floor, I'll cut from the bottom up inside the seat until it comes loose. Then patch the floor. On dashboards, I cut away the tray on the outside and cut the dash loose with a photo etch blade.

I have my built and unbuilt kits stored in my garage. Along with all of my paint. I heat it in the winter with a kerosene heater during the day. That causes the foundation to sweat on the inside. So, I had a few open boxes get damaged from that. All I had to do to cure that problem was scoot them away from the foundation a couple of inches. Other than that, no issues.

About the closest P/S P/M chassis you'll find for the Vega would be the one from the Revell Pro Street Beretta, J-2000 or Corvette. Revell reissued the Beretta some years ago. So, it should be easy to find on ebay.

Nice work on the patina Al!

One of the best examples of this kit that I've seen! Really like the color! Nice work!

I'd use one from a Monogram '66 fastback. I'm pretty sure you would have to make the AMT '67 chassis wider to fit the '66 as there's a big difference in the shape at the bottom of the bodies between the two.

It's shaping up James! The bumperette idea will be an interesting look. I'm guessing they'll be mounted over the holes for the bumper brackets? Having done one of these, I thought I would offer my solution for the rear window. I got rid of the original lip, shaped the window, glued a solid piece of .020 on the inside and then cut it out to match the openings. It's a lot easier than trying to file and sand that area.

It was the Revell '69 Nova SS. First issue.