TarheelRick

I will try to help with my limited knowledge. First the /G and /GS difference; G indicates the engine is naturally aspirated (carbs, injected, etc.) whereas the /GS indicates the engine is supercharged. For the weight divided by displacement here is a link ( http://autohobbypage.com/specs/gen/ford40.html ) to the 40+ year Fords and it gives the weight of the stock vehicle. However, when building a drag car weight is the enemy, so as much weight as legally possible is eliminated, therefore you may want to drop the weight by two-three hundred pounds. The rule book then will give you a letter designation for the class you would fit in. Hope this helps some.

If I see a good mark-down at Hobby Lobby or a fairly good selection at Ollie's I can't help myself. I have not completed a kit in almost a year, but I know I have bought at least 10-12. Here is a picture made 4 years ago, most are still there and many of the holes have been filled with more kits.

I got a "California Step-side" kit for my 1:1 '74 Datsun 620. Never finished the build, instead traded it for a '78 King Cab. It was a fairly straightforward conversion. Al it required was a little bit of drilling and measuring to get it straight.

Crank her up, I want to see my computer screen vibrate. Beautiful build, overall very clean. I like it.

That is one wicked '55. Some really nice detail work in the engine compartment. Two thumbs up.

Good looking chop job and I like your overall vision of this build. One thing I may suggest is to open up the top of the windshield area, it appears to be too wide below the drip rails (just my thoughts).

A few I would like to get my hands on: 63 Pontiac Bonneville 64 Oldsmobile F-85 62 Oldsmobile Starfire - had two uncles that owned them, one was black and the other was silver All the 150+ kits I sold off in 1984 including the annuals from '60 up through the time I sold them.

If you are planning to scratchbuild a chassis, one good place to start is to copy one of the Revell Streetburner tri-five Chevrolet chassis's. I built a chassis for an Escort based on one of those chassis.

Excellent build, love everything about it. The overall end product is outstanding When I got to the side view picture, I wondered what had happened to the paint on the "C" pillar, then I went down a couple more and realized it was a reflection of the overhead light - whew!

Here is a set I made using solder and plastic tubing and shrink sleeve for the collector. They are not weedburners, but I almost exclusively use solder for headers.

Well alrighty then, are you done yet? Looks like a cool project.

Nice looking drag car, clean build. Way too many pictures.

Just completed a great trade with Modlbldr. Everything went well, no glitches.

In the earlier days of the AWB cars the frame and floorpan were simply sectioned the same amount as the rear wheelbase change. In other words if the rear wheels were moved forward 12 inches, then a 12 inch section of the frame and floorpan (usually under the rear seat area) was removed and welded back together. The six-point roll cage then provided some rigidity to the modified chassis.

Just completed a great trade with Thatz4u. Thanks.

Our local high school football team won their first game last night. Earlier in the season we lost to the cross county rivals for only the second time in 18 years; they also lost two other games. Last night's game was against a city school team (allowed to recruit) against our small rural high school (play with what you have). This game is a biggie each year. There used to be a bridge across the river that separates our two counties, however the state decided it was cheaper to destroy it than replace/repair it. When it was razed someone took a chunk of the concrete and made it into a somewhat trophy. Each year our two teams play the "Battle of the Bridge" for that piece of rock and bragging rights. Way to go RAMS.

My primary driver is a 2010 Ranger Sport, since this picture was made I have added a low-line bed cover painted to match. The second picture is my toy. Belonged to my Dad, now it is mine. Since this picture was taken I have added a camper shell. It is an 83 with 103K miles and a 2.8 V-6.

Just checked my 65 Bonneville kit and it has a really nice set of 8 lugs. Guess I will need to try and cast a couple of sets.

Just acquired a set of Pontiac 8-lug wheels from a Trumpeter Bonneville. Let me rephrase that, I acquired a set of very poorly reproduced 8-lug wheels, Trumpeter really screwed the pooch on these. They remind me of those "faux mag wheel" covers from the 60's, you know, the ones from J. C. Whitney for $12 a set. There is no depth to them and there is very minimal detail. Now for my real reason for this post, which resin-caster makes a quality Pontiac 8-lug wheel?

Just completed a trade with classicgas. Very pleased, shipped quickly, kept me informed all the way.

PM sent

My only question is concerning the material the K members were made of. I know this has nothing to do with the models, but I believe magnesium would not have been used. Magnesium is quite brittle, if you have ever seen a real magnesium wheel that has hit a curb you will see what I mean. The use of stainless steel seems more appropriate for this particular application. That being said, I also think they may have been painted yellow by some builders in order to better see cracks forming during the rigors of racing. Just my $.02 for what it is worth.

Would it make the build go faster? Sorry, I couldn't resist.

I have seen this statement mentioned in several posts concerning stripping paint. It appears to me the Super-Clean would eventually be full of dissolved lacquer and other type paint particles, which would make it just as toxic as basic lacquer. I know the jug says it is biodegradable, but I believe that applies to the original composition of the Super-Clean. Anyone else have any thoughts on this?

You got my attention with this one. My favorite car of all time is the 65 Chevelle, built anyway - street, circle burner , or drag. This is some beautiful workmanship.