NOBLNG

Interior is pretty much done.

Well I wound up sandwiching the decal between the clear lens and a piece of styrene sheet cut to fit which I epoxied in place after taping the decal in position. I did not even remove the paper from the decal. The barracuda decals were sized correctly and laid down pretty nice over the raised script. Thanks for the advice.

1)From the looks of these instructions, the instrument decal (#1 or 2) is applied to the backside of the clear piece #131. This would mean that the decal would have to be applied face down to #131 so that the numbers are correct. I don't think a decal can be applied upside-down and still stick? Does anyone know for sure? If it is meant to be applied between the dash and #131, then there would be no point in making #131 out of clear plastic! I have held the decal in both locations and it does look better behind the clear. 2)If I want to use the decals (#26) where there is script on the dash or body, the script should be sanded off first correct? Will a decal stick to script if it is trimmed very accurately and microsol and microset are used?

I've never used any photo etch so I am not sure. You could send me a link to it or pm me the pictures? I could not find the Revell Hemi 'Cuda set on their website. Thanks, Greg.

They had them on sale at Canuck Tire so I bought a second one. The space inside is rather small so a second one is nice. I only spray in the garage and sometimes it would be nice to have one in there and one in the house. I'll admit I am a very impatient person, so the dehydrator is a must for me!

Thanks for the info.

The plastic is cast right up against the flats so the metal piece with the flats will not rotate in the cap. I think the piece with the flats is a nut cast or pressed into the cap. The outer piece that fits into the airbrush is likely one piece with the nipple that the plastic pickup tube fits onto. This outer piece likely screws into the nut with the flats. The nipple could also be a part of the nut? I need to finish the paint job I am working on before I attempt to unscrew it, (just in case I screw it up).

Love that color! Nice job on the interior bits too.

My Paasche H airbrush came with two plastic bottles, only one of which has the tapered nipple to connect to the airbrush. I can get these glass bottles cheap at michaels and the paasche lid will screw onto them even though the thread is a little different. I would like to transfer the nipple over to the michaels lid which seems to be a better grade of plastic. I can't see how to remove the nipple though, I think it may be cast into the lid? Has anyone done something like this? Also, do all brands of airbrushes use the same taper, as in will any bottle fit any airbrush? Thanks for any advice!

A bit more progress on this one. This is Wicked Colors Magenta. Not quite a factory color, but close enough for me. It actually looks a lot more purple-wine color than the photos indicate. I did a spoon test and testors extreme gloss seems to be OK over this. Tamiya pearl clear crazed it a bit. Has anyone used this paint and cleared it successfully? Edit: I misplaced my decal sheet for a while and didn't realize they provided wood-grain decals for the dash and consol, so I painted them flat brown. I guess if I put a gloss over it the decals would stick.

Looks more like mustard to me.

This was our cat. We found him huddled under our dryer vent trying to keep warm. He was tattooed and de-clawed when we found him but the tattoo could not be traced. We would never have gotten him de-clawed, but it was kinda nice that he couldn't shred the furniture. I did NOT want to keep him, but he won me over and became more my cat than the wife's. He got along great with the dogs too!

So when your model no longer smells like roast beef it's dry!

Yes, American Graffiti. It was one of the Pharaohs who said it.

From one of my all-time favorite movies..."who cut the cheese?"

Jaws.

I tried the panel line accent on a spare set of seats, and it looks ok in some spots. Other places it just looks dirty!

I have a model molded in white styrene. I want parts of the interior (seats and door panels) to be white. Do I have to paint those parts white, or would it be OK to clear them with a semi gloss or matt clear? It would be nice to have the pleats in the seats stand out a bit more. What could I use to make them stand out a bit without blackening the rest of the upholstery? Panel line accent would be too dark I think? Thanks for any tips. Greg.

Nice work on that trailer! It looks like you've done a beautiful job on that bug too.

I too am interested to know which sealer you use. I imagine it would work to seal body filler also??

The guy did a pretty nice job on this! https://www.bikeforums.net/general-cycling-discussion/1171621-porsche.html

Right on! I'm sure they afford to please a customer once in a while. I have punctured nearly full cans CAREFULLY after letting the can sit and settle completely. With a very sharp awl, pierce slowly (right near the top where there will be no paint) until the faintest bit of propellant seeps out. Then wait until all pressure is gone and repeat the process (in case the puncture sealed itself and there is still pressure inside). Once all pressure is gone you can poke a larger hole and drain the contents.

Fantastic!