Bills72sj

I like the two tone rigs. Lighter color on top.

Thank you all. ?

I'm in with that. Especially for Pontiacs.

Future? hot water. If teardown, then MAYBE an ammonia wipe. Everything else, lacquer thinner, air dry. Cheap seals will deteriorate like on my $15 Chinese air brushes, good seals could care less.

Thank you Brian. ? That was the intent.

Been working on this without updating. Spliced chassis and interior painted. Gave the dash some semblance of detail with decals from the parts box.

Thank you Brian. ?

I too am in the acrylic camp. No VOC solvents eliminates any risk of reaction. Though Steve is correct. FULLY cured enamel is tolerant of lacquer top coats applied in light coats.

Very nice build and color.

DANG! That is awesome! Very creative.

I used vacuum pumps weekly for years in my refrigeration service job. White/milky is generally caused by moisture/humidity. Particularly if you are sucking air through it.

Gorgeous 57. I hope to make one just as nice someday.

Thank you, I found and article about correcting the chrome grille surround to body color. It makes it more correct.

Great job on your completed build and awards. As someone who built two of these recently, my cabs came out ok because I was warned what to look for. The rest of the model went together pretty well for me too. However, the pesky fragile mirrors raised my blood pressure a few times. I ended up using two different adhesives on every joint to improve their strength.

Thank you Chris. ?

Thank you Philippe. ?

If you do an immediate flush/back flush after every color you will rarely need to pull it apart to clean it. Just use the appropriate solvent based on the the paint you just sprayed. Stay away from soaking it in ANYTHING that can attack metal.

Very sweet Mustang. Nice color.

Kit bashing takes some finesse. I hacked an engine bay out of a 67 GT to install into a 68 Shelby because the Shelby kit's engine bay was so lame. I also mini-tubbed another 67 GT to make a drag racer out of it. The hard part was stuffing a 427 SOHC motor in it. http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/156213-1968-shelby-gt-500/ http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/155547-stalled-1967-mustang-gt-coming-back-in-the-queue/

Wow those prices are insane. I was fortunate to get an unbuilt JoHan Maverick missing the decals last Summer for $40.

Nice clean build. Did the instruction show putting the luberifiner on the drivers side cowl?

Exactly. Let ink dry 24 hours. If you don't, the bonder solvents with make the colors run. Let decal bonder dry 24 hours (or longer). Apply like any other waterslide decal. They are tough and not too thick.

Thanks for sharing. Years ago I participated with my car at an autocross. It was the most fun I have ever had for $10.

The eagle with the flags is a reprinted scanned copy of some Italeri Peterbilt 377 A/E kit decals. The door livery is artwork I made up on my PC. The flag flames are files cribbed from the internet. They were printed with an inkjet printer. I have decal paper in both white and clear that I got from ebay. I use old school MS Paint as it lets me reduce print size instead of file size. (Reducing file size KILLS the resolution). Again, they are coated with Testors #9200 Decal Bonder from a rattle can. To let you know the capabilities, I made these full length decals that all four huge pieces went on on the 1st try.

I have something simpler. A set of wheels to match the ones on my 1:1. I will PM you to see if you want pics and dimensions.