espo

Your credit card must be still smoldering in your wallet.

I have used Purple Power for a long time and have been happy with the results. Someone here mentioned using bleach for chrome removal and I 'm doing it that way now.

I have been lucky with UPS with one very big exception. About 20 years ago I ordered some sway bars for a pick up I was redoing the suspension on. Came home from work and there was an empty box on the front door step. It had all the signs of someone doing a burnout on the end of the box. It took UPS some time to step up and replace the sway bars, but since then I have never had a problem.

The Alignment issue that 62rebal mentioned has todo with the front suspension on the kit, Part of the alignment has to do with the wheel base as much as to the toe in or out and the top of the tire pointing in or out. The kit as it comes from Revell has a slightly different wheel base from one side to the other. Small corrections can be made during the basic chassis work, if you realize there is a problem. Unless you check it you may not even realize a problem until you get to the final assembly stage. For myself since I was going to lower the front suspension anyway this was easily corrected when I removed the spindles adding material and remounting them to the lower control arm. I can center the spindle in such a way that the wheel base matches on both sides. I also 'pin' the spindle too the control arm for added strength and to help position the parts until the glue dries. For a 'pin' I just use a short piece of a staple, not expensive and gets the job done.

Looking at the picture Art is sharing from the show, and something just didn't look 100% with the side windows. They seem to short by just a little bit. Looking at the picture Crazed had of a '62 1:1 confirmed it. To my eye it looks as if the side windows are just ever so much shorter than the 1:1. This would not be enough to keep me from buying some as this should be an easy fix. I like the wheels with the slightly deeper offset. The white walls should be the narrow style but again easy fix if you're going to use white walls. Just think of what the California Wheels version is going to be like.

Might want to check Fed-X or UPS, sometimes they are cheaper.

The "overlap" you mentioned is more common then you might think. In late '67 I ordered a new '68 Chevrolet Bel Air tudoor. To get around insurance charges at the time I found that the insurance company only wanted to know if the new car would be a 6 or an 8. They didn't seem to care which 8 and my insurance dropped almost in half from my '66 Impala SS 396 & 4-speed. They insured my new Bel Air 385 hp 427 cu in 4-speed with no problem at all. The point is when this car would throw it's fan & Air Con. belts which it shredded on a regular bases the engine took '67 part number belts and '68 part numbers wouldn't fit. In the '70's working for several different Chevrolet dealers it was not uncommon to get new inventory that had hub caps and often trim and grills from a Pontiac or a GMC truck. It was like what ever was handy at the time.

Looks just like the real thing. The fine details like real hood pins and the very fine multi colored wiring.

Very impressive build. I noticed the radiator detail, in one picture you can see right thru it.

Beautiful build. Well engineered chassis and body. Great engine wireing.

I have used metal dryer hose I got at Home Depot. I'm sure Lowes and many others offer the same or similar hose. They offer a couple of different diameters and are not expensive.

I hope someone will be able to share any pictures of the show.

Not to muddy the waters on this and Bill Engwer offers a lot of valid information. As to any "rule" in the automotive world there is always exceptions. I purchased a one owner '51 Ford Tudoor in '63. It was a V-8 3-speed Overdrive car. The engine was the bronze color as mentioned but the Oil Bath Air Cleaner was a semi gloss black complete with FoMoCo decals still intact. This was a west coast car all its life and where it was built may or may not have anything to do with it, Mine was not the only one with this colored air cleaner among the people I knew. It could just as easily been a supplier issue on the paint. We just thru the air cleaners away anyway and got the little chromed Elco air cleaners or put 2 2's or 3 2's on them.

I agree with the others here on the weathering. Not that aren't a lot of rusted out old hulks out there. But this is what many old work trucks become as they age. They would get washed once in a while, never waxed, and might got to sit under a leanto roof or something. I'll have to try your paint technique sometime.

In the past Revell would offer a 2 in 1 of a kit after the initial enthusiasm has died down. Since I haven't seen one of these on the shelf lately it could be offered soon. I would like a Drag or NASCAR version also.

I would like to do the Audi, because it's an Audi. The Volvo also since you just don't is many Volvo kits.

I haven't seen one of these in a while. I also never cared for the big round Lincoln tail lights. The factory wraparound tail lights always looked good. They were compact and followed the flow of the body lines. Remember some who would put tail lights in the bumper guards or even in the bumper it's self.

They were a very interesting car. The suspension system was way beyond anything in their price range at the time. I always thought they were a great car when they came out, but I had a mental block on anything that was not from here and I was driving nothing but big block Chevrolets at the time. In retrospect this could be a killer econo car for today with very little in the way of modifications to the overall car.

It has been an intermittent problem for myself. I think it may just have todo with the number of users at the time, but it does seem very slow down loading a thread that I want to read. The system seems to be slow in responding to every command at times and this is why I believe it has more todo with volume than anything else. Other times it works just fine.

I think the OEM color was a bronze/gold color. When ever they got rebuilt they just seemed to turn red. The air cleaner was a semi gloss black.

Depending on just how hard it is to mask the transmission you might just brush paint it. I would use your favorite "aluminum" paint and a little black wash and it should be good.

I have only done this once and had no problems. I would still do the old picnic spoon test just to be sure.

I also have been pleased with the Novus products. I'll sometimes use them in combination with the Tamiya polishing compounds depending on what type of paint issues you're trying to overcome.

I corrected the alignment issues by moving the spindles on my builds. Pegasus offers some nice wheels that may work, or list what you need on the Wanted section on this forum.

I just looked at this On The Work Bench, and now it's Under Glass. I didn't realize this was an older build. I like how it turned out.