Ulf

Anyone who has experience with the Proxxon Micromot FD 150/E Lathe ?

Some or perhaps all spray cans have a wax plug in the tube. Over time it dries up and so you may need to spray it out by removing the nozzle, holding the tube away and pressing the valve with a steel wire bent like a J. Do this outdoors... You don't want the dried wax in the nozzle or on the car body. Many have probably thought that this mess is paint but it is not.

I love everything about this build, love the picture whit the hand also.

I am overwhelmed by all the positive responses to my project. Since I am not very good at either the forum functions or English, I am collecting my responses in one post. ”TarheelRick You have a pretty good start on what looks like a decent period street rod. Should fit right in with the RoG. Bring on the updates.” Thanks, I will. ”Ace-Garageguy Very VERY nice. Love that engine, and the overall look and stance are perfect. ” Thank you, I really appreciate your help with information about the engine. Stance is everything, difficult but I think it makes it easier to find the right one if you go out in the daylight. I take the car outside on this sometimes. ”ColonelKrypton I will second that. seeing that your '34 Ford is powered by a six, you might consider including it in "the straight six community build rides again" community / group build. https://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/187050-the-straight-six-community-build-rides-again/ Backing up thin stock with a thicker piece in order to drill holes is one way. However, I use small four flute end cutting end mills ( amazon or eBay ) that can cut the hole directly on the thin stock without needing to be back up with thicker stock. I have a few select sizes that cover my needs. Available in metric as well as imperial sizes and various shank sizes. This is a link to an example on Amazon.com to show to what I am referring: https://www.amazon.com/1pc-Flutes-Carbide-Square-Mill/dp/B09VFFQWP9/?th=1” Thanks, I will definitely post some "the straight six community build rides again" community/group build posts when I get a little further with the engine. ”Bullybeef @Ulf so glad that you took your progress to a new thread! Keep going you have a winner here.” Thanks, the project has now entered the long awaited phase where the car drives me forward, some people say floow ”roadkill G'day Ulf, when I stop to read and see someone else's work I usually scroll down slowly so I can stop before I see the first pic. Then I read what ever is there then I go to the pics, so when I read your blurb I started to think that the model was not going to be all that great, WOW, was I wrong, this is going to be a work of art, very well thought out and beautifully executed, very well done sir, can't wait to see the finished build.” Thanks, primer in mars is my goal. ”Paul Payne Love the little figure you constructed- great for testing fit and position! Will be following!” Thank you, yes Bob is a great help when furnishing the coupe. In the future I will be making a brother for him in aluminium sheet. ”CabDriver This is a great looking project - I like the work you’re doing on this one!” Thanks ”ColonelKrypton What a great idea. I will have to give that a try. I dabble a bit with water colours and other mediums; doesn't have to be water colours, will also try some inks and markers.” Thank you, an alternative to painting is to download the NCS app and experiment with colours. NCS, the Natural Colour System, is an international colour designation system for specifying, communicating and controlling colour in architecture, design, marketing, manufacturing, education and research. One thing about NCS is that you learn how colours are constructed. bluegrey body, deepred rims, primerred dashboard, blackbrown frame, blackgrey suspension, warmwhite rollbar, deep black in the corners etc etc Then you must not forget that deviations can be very nice, https://patganahl.com/2020/07/13/palate-cleanser/ ”Bainford Very cool project, Ulf. This is one Chevy-in-a-Ford I can get behind. Looking cool.” Thanks, I have a Moebius Ford inline 6 but it was too modern this time so I'm saving it for something else. ”Kenmojr This is gonna be super cool....” Thanks ”Zippi Nice mods going on here Ulf. The colors you choose are going to look pretty kewl. I'm liking this build.” Thanks (I had to Google kewl..)? bill-e-boy Kool project - coming along nicely Thanks Muncie Love '34 Ford coupes with Chevy sixes. The slicker and more attitude, the better. Thank you for continuing the build and the posts - this thing is pretty darn cool! Thanks, the response gives me energy. Rattlecan Dan Looks really nice so far! Thanks slusher Impressive work so far! Thanks

I remember when this one was featured in a Swedish car magazine in the 80s, even though I didn't have time to build regularly, it was stored in my head and occasionally demanded attention. It is so tasteful and has many details that really make a difference.

Amazing, you can really feel the smell and vibrations.

I think this ICM kit will be really good and when you are tired of building original cars you can probably kit bash with Monogram's classics, such as the coupe. If ICM makes a roadster they have a winner.

A slightly unmotivated update but now I have finally test fitted the engine to the new mount.

Now I have come a long way with the cover over the gearbox and clutch. I have built a diamond, about 13 parts, facets. It really can be made easier and faster but now it's almost done. I started from the cover in the floor tub in the 34 kit and glued plasticard around it so that the angles were equal, in short, the cover became larger but retained shape and proportions. I am really not sure that a Ford 34 floor looks like this so it may be silly to copy an incorrect shape but it felt like a part of the 34. The primer will reveal how I managed the task. Because I moved my inline 6 back I also need to move a cross member and make new front engine mounts. It feels a bit like being forced to make a heart change but now the new beam is in place, glued and stapled with styrene plastic and it will be allowed to dry during the week. I hope that my choice to glue styrene with styrene glue is right. The old beam will probably have to stay in place for quite a long time in the project to support it. The next tough question is, shock absorbers or not in the front ? A car screwed together by parts to accelerate a little straight ahead at some point, are shock absorbers something that I have to deal with ?

MC kits have many challenges. My short answer is, save money and buy a Tamiya kit, they are well thought out, relatively easy to build and look better for several reasons, the large scale means that the parts can be so large that they can withstand the model's own weight, wire spoke wheels are difficult in scale but Tamiyas look good. Unfortunately, an AMF Superglide was not the coolest bike but now 50 years later it is a bit cool in a different way. Imex released some kits in the 90's with the Evolution engine, later Revell probably released the same kit, one or more of these have a springer fork and I strongly advise against them, choose a kit with a telescopic fork.

Wise words from one who knows, her "boss" is probably ironic, the wait staff is more accurate. Next time I shop a top I will do a lot of parts before I put a fine toothed saw in the plastic, the front window frame and interior window frames as well as the edges of the openings I will work a lot on because now I know how difficult it is to do afterwards. My ambition is humbly to get this car together. I cut away the bottom part of the window frame and replaced it with a plasticard profile and fitted the top part in and will try to sand the inside a bit to make the framme both sharper and thinner, a job to be done during the day in daylight.... I glued the thinnest round plasticard profile along the inside as a reinforcement. I have moved the firewall back to accommodate the engine and in order to one day be able to mount the instrument panel, I have put quite a lot of effort into making sure that these mounts have a perfect fit. Right now I'm working on a smaller dog house and I'll come back to that in the future.

Thanks to everyone for all the friendly feedback. Tonight I did some colour studies with watercolour on a few prints. I think a blue grey will meet red, primer red, steel, aluminium and a little rust well.

The holes in racing cars are tempting, my first attempt was not so good, the frame was a bit thin on one side, honestly the starting material might not be perfect. It was a retake with the equivalent from a 32. Just as honestly, I like the pattern on 34 better but you have to be able to live with compromises. One way to drill sharp holes in thin plastic is to clamp a thicker plasticard sheet on each side and drill through three pieces.

The fight against the release angle goes on around the clock in parallel with the fight against seam lines and ejection marks on the forum. As a result of my struggle against the release angle, the AMT's interior went out and with it there was a little disorder in the dimensions of the coupé. I called in Bob to help me get the seat height, steering wheel position and angle, pedals and lever. The work is ongoing and I have promised to paint Bob clothes when we are done. It immediately turned out that the small bracket for the seat that I made was far too high, ok I have to drill some delicious light holes in something else.

The plugged hole in the roof got what will hopefully look like spot welds when all is done. On the underside I glued a slightly smaller equivalent. Of course, the one on the inside should be negative, I know, but my thought is that it will be easier to paint when there is an edge. Carbon black in the corners that should not be seen and sharp contrasts I hope will hide what should not be seen. This build isn't perfect but it's a lot of fun.

Now almost a year later I'm not quite sure why I have a Chevrolet inline 6 but I think the engine in the AMT 25 Ford T was a bit too new(?). Anyway, I had an injected 51 Chevrolet with manifolds that looked enticing. The cylinder head that I had never seen before turned out to be a Fisher cross flow and I got good help from Ace Garageguy with links and other information to be able to build a sensible engine. Afriend said that I really chose AMT's two sourest lemons, 34 Ford which is a little weirdly skewed and 51 Chevrolet engine which is soft which I noticed. To get some rigour I made my own engine block, The "clutch" is an old Monogram rim and a part from the 51 air cleaner. The ribs on the tailgate are a pair of valve covers from an AMT Corvette.When I was done with the engine, I found a new engine block from a Galaxie 47 Chevrolet kit in one of the scrap boxes I bought the year before…

The wheels are half the car, after a bit of deliberation it was Moon discs from AMTs1925 Ford T Chopped No. 1167 kit. I am a bit restrictive with buying kits just for a few parts but I know I will build a T-rod one day. The front wheels are from an AMT 49 Ford and the rear are actually wheel backs from an AMT 62 Corvette. The moon discs were not as nice as I had hoped for actually. I put the wheels in my poor man's lathe, it turned out like that. The truth is revealed when the primer comes on.

I had already lowered the top, it was out of frustration during the pandemic, and it was my first top as an adult and I have learnt a lot for next time. -Have a plan. -Brace the body with a few sprues across the inside so that it stays straight. -Measure three times, saw once. -saw with a fine saw. -Saw carefully. -Be sure to build the internal window frames when the roof is gone, it's nice and steady. All this does many more experienced model builders.

I started this project just over a year ago. I saw the Calb56 invitation to the Race of Gentlemen presents... California Drag Racing 2023 Build Thread in Community Builds and thought it would be fun to participate. My idea was to basically glue together some parts from the junkparts, it would prove to be a total lack of self-awareness. My starting point was a pandemic desparation choped AMT 34 five window coupe and thought that I have everything in my scrap boxes (I bought some scrap boxes during the pandemic when I returned to the hobby). I jumped in on page 6 with my body and worked on during the spring, but then I unfortunately became so stressed that I did not dare to work on this one. Just before the turn of the year, most things around me had calmed down so much that it was time to start again but now the time for the group building was over and the focus was on other things so now I start again here. Rightly or wrongly, I start here because my thought is that it is a hot rod for the street making a small detour to The Race of Gentlemen.

Wow, a kit I've never seen ? thanks ! I would like Atlantis to release such a kit. My Bob will only help me to get the dimensions inside the coupé.

Nice build, it's a bit strange that Tamiya hasn't released a 1/24 kit like that themselves as they have released both 1/32 toy and 1/12(?) RC Baja buggies that have very nice shapes.

Thank you I will put together a wip thread in the future, I am working on the text. American is not my native language so I want to work on the text before starting such a thread. Deep Translate on the net is very good but then I have some pride too. My productivity will increase in the next few months when I stop working. Now this project has reached the desirable level that the model is driving me forward, flow, nirvana or whatever you want to call it but it's fun.

He's edgy, inflexible and quite slow at the start but that's the driver I have. Now I can fit the steering wheel, seat, pedals and gear lever. Maybe one of these 3D printers can make a slightly better looking old man for the relatively small group of gasser builders?

Nicely, he drove barefoot to get the right feeling. It would be nice to see a reissue.

I read an interview with Mr Tamiya in an MC magazine in the 80s. He had a very clear strategy about how they (he) chose. The MC that they chose should be unique and have something special (it was an MC magazine). I have been told that this methodology is still in place and permeates especially MC but also the cars, regarding tanks they seem to be more mainstream. Tamiya's cars are quite extreme Porsche 959 and GT2, no dozen cars. I think they want to sell to a customer who wants to build a high quality model kit more than a car interested modeller. The modelling itself is the goal. Another rumour concerning Tamiya claims that there is a challenge, a puzzle in the kit, something that gives the modeller a reward, a dopamine kick. Tamiya has made fantastic kits but far from all of them appeal to me or make me want to build them. Tamiya's MCs leave me cold but I know that several of the most incomprehensible to me are best sellers, such as the Honda CX500 Turbo. I myself put great hope in ICM's Ford model A, it combined with MONOGRAM's coupe or Roadster pickup can perhaps reach a new level.