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The clearance problems you're experiencing was a problem in full scale as well. I had a '34 Ford pickup long ago with a problem clearing the generator. Ya it was that long ago. Anyway, it was a common thing to add side blisters to the hood side panels that would clear whatever was in the way on the engine. Should that fit the look you're wanting maybe leave the side panels off of the hood as that was a common way around the problem also.

Great looking paint work and nice to see something that has been overlooked in the past. The engine and under hood area is well done and realistic looking.

Great attention to details on all three builds. Nice to see just how many different ways this can be built.

Beautiful looking Deuce Coupe and era perfect. The white firewall and under fenders used to be called "Sanitary". The interior looks great, to bad it's hard to see with the chopped top. The engine looks very cleanly detailed.

The paint surface looks really smooth already. Popular color for that era as well.

I think it was AMT that also offered this same body style at one time. Their version could be built a couple of different ways. The area of the body around the base of the roof and top of the cowl had interchangeable body parts. One of the options was a chopped top three window or a stock height roof as well as a roadster option. I don't know if any of these parts would scale out the same as your Monogram kit, but maybe these parts can be found in someone's spare parts box.

Been enjoying watching your build and this concept. You mentioned you weren't sure about the molding on the front fender area. A quick Google search for pictures of full-sized Chevrolets of this era may give you a better idea of what the original looked like in this area. One thing I noticed has to do with the hood. My personal experience has to do with owning a '51 Chevy O so long ago. The kits hood should wraparound under the cowl and above the fender. The small gap between the chrome molding that runs across the body under the windshield should be covered by the hood. A check online will give you an idea of what I'm trying to explain. Keep up the great work here, looks like a fun build.

I think the turning point for the Revell kits came about after they combined with Monogram. I don't recall the exact time this happened, but I do recall being disappointed in the Revell kits execution overall. I'm old enough to have delt with Revell's multi part bodies that this then young builder was unable to deal with. The good news is that whatever transpired after joining Monogram the Revell kits became desirable builds rather quickly.

Shows amazing attention to details and finishes. Your 9-month build looks like the effort was well worth it. I like the way you displayed it with the front wheels turned.

So many great looking cars and trucks. Thank you for sharing.

There was a brief profile on him and his collection on the national news last night. Very gifted person.

Great looking stock style build. Like the paint color and finish.

Beautiful looking Camaro. I like how you got the blacked out tail panel as many forget that part of the SS package. The side stripes looked good on these also. The painted steel wheels and the dog dish hub caps, were they in the kit?

The body moldings look great and the way you're using the inset in the U channel will make detailing the chrome edges look even better.

Always enjoy seeing your cruise photos. Amazing variety of build styles and really great looking. The premiered Plymouth, '55 or '56?, is something I haven't seen in years. The Hugger Orange Camaro looks much like one I owned for many years. The Gold Corvette has a hood treatment that stopped me when I saw it. How do you louver fiberglass? The blue '66 Chevelle 300 two door post is a body style I like, I have a resin '67 on the work bench right now. The '56 Bel Air post car I think you have included in the past and is something I would dream of in full scale.

The 510 is a super nice kit and well detailed. I built the BRE issue, and it even had a road map for all of the plumbing in the engine compartment.

Your picture of a Magnifying Lamp looks very close to the one I have used for many years. The one in the picture looks to have what I think would be a better arm adjustment. Looking at my lamp just now I can't find a brand name per say but it was made by LEDU Corp. of Trumball Ct. The label says it was made in Sweden. The metal arms and the hood are white in color but I'm sure that there are color options so I wouldn't use that as any type of guide. Maybe a Google search of the company could lead you too them if they are even still in business. I bought this lamp at an office supply store over twenty years ago and have only had to replace the bulb one time, and the lens came lose once.

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Great looking Mustang. The first thing I thought of was the Gas Monkey car since I would see it so often when watching the show. All of the added trim looks just like the photos of the real car.

Great looking color combination. I like the stance and the wheels and tires. Enjoyed watching your build on this.

The paint looks like it is a mile deep and smooth. Clean trim and the stance looks great.

Beautiful replica of the car in the movies. The color and finish look just like the picture and all of the trim looks like the picture as well. Annette was my boyhood crush from the time she wore Micky Mouse ears in the Micky Mouse Club on TV.

I was pleasantly surprised to see this back on the work bench. You mentioned the rear leaf spring mounting points. The kits leaf springs have the frame mounting points on the ends. The very flat looking ends represent the hangers that were attached to the side of the frame on the 1:1. The kit has some very slight indentations to represent the mounting points. Your approach looks very convincing. I don't know how much attention you're going to do with the trunk area, but the mounting for the rear shocks will show inside the trunk if built as the instructions show. The upper shock mount in the kit is a hole that goes all the way thru the floor area. This will show in the trunk area if you're displaying the trunk open. I suggest shortening the upper mounting peg on the shock and smoothing over the floor area under the rear window so that the shock mounting will not show. The 1:1's had the shocks mounted to the trunk floor with no frame support when new. When we would modify the originals, it was common to run a small diameter support cross member between the frame rails and then mount the shocks to that. Driven hard it was not uncommon to bend the upper mountings because of the lack of support and with age and undercarriage rusting this part of the floor would tend to rust out as well. Look forward to following your build on this.

A couple of possible places to look would be any arts and crafts store that offers book making materials. Also consider using a dark colored embossing powder and then a dust coat of the shade of red you're after. I suggest spraying light coats so as to not lose the texture and hold the object you're painting at arm's length so that it will lead to a rougher texture as well.

The roll pan may be the cleanest look. The later vans, I'm thinking around '80 or newer, had the factory option of the same rear bumper with license mount built in as the 1500 and 2500 series pickups. The window combinations from the factory not to mention aftermarket are endless. The factory rear door windows were almost imposable to see out of and you sat high enough that you could lose sight of a full-size Caprice anyway. This is the reason you would see so many with large door mounted rear view mirrors. None of these details are absolute when working in 1/25 scale plastic so just build it the way it looks best to you.